Parco dei Principi/Rome
One of the worst and nails-dragging-on-a-blackboard question I can think of is "What's the best hotel in Rome?" First and foremost, Rome hotels - and I mean the gamut from random apartment lets to five-star luxury - cannot be compared to anything you've ever experienced outside of the Eternal City. In Rome, space is valued far more here because there is far less, tradition has been known to outweigh innovation, and, thanks to the Eternal City's historic pole position in the Grand Tour, hotel competition has always been more of a numbers game — in other words, all about getting you in the door, but not necessarily getting you to return. Secondly, recommending hotels is general is like walking through an unlisted dog park, you never know what you are going to step on.
For me, the best hotel in Rome is one that makes me feel good because of a crazy discount, an incredible location, an amazing rooftop, or even a great affair- essentially, qualifying a hotel as Best has far more to do with mood of the moment, personal fantasies, and unspoken expectations and less to do with size, interior design or location. Though there is no rhyme or reason for my choices in best, there are three must-haves: proper hair dryers, quality bAnedding (no twin mattresses masquerading as a king and no bouncy pillows) and a bowl of fresh fruit…every day.
Since “best” often means Luxury or Five Star, here’s my round up of Rome’s Top Five Luxury Hotels:
1. Parco dei Principi: With its Villa Borghese park location, its the Great Escape meets the Great Beauty. Slightly heavy on Baroque design (primarily in public areas), the rooms are toned down to a more simple, refined and, dare I say modernized, classical vibe. I'm sold on the view, in particular park-facing rooms from the fourth floor and up which each have a front row view through Villa Borghese to St. Peter's dome. The Art Deco pool area and spa complex keep me obsessed with Parco dei Principi. From May through September, the pool-side cabana is my go-to spot. Downside: The design can be a little busy on the eyes. And if you aren't used to walking around Rome, you might find it a bit out of the way.
2. Grand Melia Villa Agrippina: Sprawling estate located between the Vatican and Trastevere neighborhoods, gorgeous greenery and pool, plus a little bit of antiquity, Villa Agrippina easily makes my top five. Design is what I like to call Miami-meets- Mannerism, thanks to the combo of vintage Italian and contemporary pieces. Rooms are spacious and luminous, and with just enough design (contemporary luxe- soft lines, neutral colors, quality pieces) that I automatically am relaxed. On a personal note, I love the hard wood floors and any room with a Vatican-facing balcony. The Danish design pieces make me smile while the oversized Caravaggio prints make me chuckle. But its the lush pool garden and its views of the Vatican that keep me coming back.... and the bar-side Bloody Marys.
3. Grand Palace Hotel: The Grand Palace Hotel is a Via Veneto modern monument. Designed by Marcello Piacentini, the very same architect who oversaw the EUR project, the hotel is a gorgeous 1930s time piece. The exterior is Rationalist facade, and if you look carefully you’ll note references to ancient Rome, while its interior boasts original Art Deco ornament like the ball room frescoes by Venetian artist Guido Cadorin, showing 1920s high society. The 2012 reboot brought in loots of pinks and greens, lacquer and velour, and tiny spa with a very lovely salt water pool. Views from Fifth floor and up are total Great Beauty, but keep in mind, it's modern Rome you're looking at, not its undulating history of domes, mega-monuments and tiled rooftops. Situated within walking distance to Rome’s historic center.
4. J.K. Roma: If it's raining, and it's winter, and I want to have an affair or a little Me time, I'd book a room at the JK. And to be honest, it doesn't matter what size the room- there is a luxurious coziness that designer Michel Bonan-inspired in each room- rich jewel colors mixed with white accents, incredible bedding and gorgeously spacious white-on-white bathrooms. Even in the small classic, you'll just want to lie around for hours, like I did. But since the hotel is literally a step out in the charm and chaos of Rome's historic center, it's [almost] hard to stay since you have the heart of the Eternal City at your door step.The ground floor lounge is the haute couture living room and library you've always wanted- atrium high ceilings, museum-piece furniture and every single Taschen and Assouline art books you could ever covet.
5. I think I’ll leave this spot undecided until the Hotel Eden reopens. The Dorchester Group’s renovatiosn could put the Eternal City’s Holy Triumvirate of Hotellerie - the Eden plus Hassler Hotel, a traditional beauty whose almost secret contemporary Art Deco designed rooms make me swoon, and Hotel de Russie, the Grand Dame of Rome’s 21st century hotel reboot - in full tilt.