Jonathan Gold Reviews Wolfgang Puck's WP24

Jonathan Gold Reviews Wolfgang Puck's WP24

Wolfgang Puck, although he is still probably best known for Spago, has been in the Chinese food game for a long time, first at Chinois, where it could be argued fusion cooking was born, then at places like Obachine and Dallas' Five-Sixty. For at least a couple of decades, a casual look at a Spago menu makes that restaurant seem almost Chinese too. So it makes a certain kind of sense that he would open a place like WP24, a Chinese restaurant unabashedly retailing luxury; a place with solicitous service, superprofessional cooking and a wine list heavy on Bordeaux; a place that no visiting Chinese could afford to miss.

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