Rick Bayless: Chicago's Official Mexican chef?

He's faster at rolling flautas than a speeding bullet, more powerful a chef than thousands of Marias and Juans in Chicago, able to leap into halls of fame while wearing huaraches ... look up in the sky! It's a taco vendor, it's a Mexican it's ... Rick Bayless!

That's right, Rick Bayless. Salt-n-pepper goateed chef/owner of the Frontera Grill and Topolobampo. Author, TV superstar, James Beard award collector, soon to be the third inductee into the Chicago Culinary Museum and Chef's Hall of Fame, and seemingly Chicago's only Mexican chef.

Yes, in a town with at least a handful of hot Latino chefs and restaurateurs - and where 1.44 million of its 1.8 million Hispanics are of Mexican descent - when you look at all the Mexican chefs whose books are featured on bookshelves, are written about, talked about, or referred to as Mexican food experts in Chicago's media, there's no list - it's just Rick.

Google around and you'll see what I'm talking about: whether it be a comment on the use of store-bought, pre-made sopes, what hot chocolate to pair with your churros, or a description of Chicago's Mexican culture, Rick's da hombre. The book which greeted me at the front of my local Borders a few weeks ago said it all. There was Rick's smiling face, topped off by the proclamation: "Authentic Mexican."

I've heard some conspiracy theories - don't think Chicago's Hispanics haven't noticed the Bayless phenomenon - but as far as I can see there's no one to blame. Well, maybe some unimaginative reporters, but ... Bayless is just that good.

He is, if I may, a fusion of cultures and flavors - Oklahoman by birth, Mexican by heart - possibly our time's best ambassador to Mexican culture, and absolutely not shy about the Bayless Mystique.

"Yes, certainly, through the years I've heard it. They usually say it to my face: 'Who's this white guy making Mexican food and capitalizing on us?'" Bayless told me in an interview last week. "But for every one of those, I've had thousands of 'thank you for showing the world the real Mexico.'"

The man has seen more Mexico than me, my mom who was born there, and my dad who immigrated to Mexico as a kid, combined. On his show I've watched him cook fish over a fire pit in old lady's huts, eat truly frightening things out of market carts, and identify cheese that all my life my family knew only as "white cheese." He knows his stuff and can rightfully claim to be a Mexican food expert.

As we spoke, his take on things made sense to me, a girl who never once made tamales or baked Dia del Muerto bread.

"Somehow people think that if you're raised by a family of a certain culture you'll have a mastery, it'll be in your genes, and that's not always true," he said, "and in a sense that's such a small part of it."

Then he hit a touchy nail on the head: "For instance, if you want to write about mole, as a Mexican, you are obliged to say your grandmother's recipe is the only one that's the best, and if you were to go to another town and say 'that mole is better than my grandmother's' you'd get run out of town on a rail! But it's not a problem for me; because I don't have that Mexican grandmother I can embrace all of Mexico, all the regions all the styles, and bring it all together in one place."

Which, I'll admit, is another unique Bayless viewpoint: many Chicagoans think Mexico is just one homogeneous Mexico and don't recognize what us Mexicans know - that Chicago is full of Mexicans from all over that country, with some extremely distinct socio-cultural norms, and super-varied foods. Once here it turns into a pastiche that has created a multi-regional Chicago-Mex food scene that's a little bit Yucatan, little bit Norteňo, a little bit lots of other things (heck, I don't even know what other things, I'd have to call him back).

My take on Bayless as ambassador frequently clashes with others', I know, but Latinos are living through tough times; there's a lot of hatin' going on with all the immigration talk. And here's one guy literally devoting his life to changing those attitudes - not a bad thing.

"I can say [I reach] a lot of people that don't see eye-to-eye with me politically, socially or anything. Yet when we're at the table, cooking an incredible paella over a wood fire, we have the most amazing time. All of a sudden all the differences fall away," he said. "I can bring people to the table with really beautifully crafted food. As our country becomes more and more Latino, I think a real Mexican table is really going to be an important step in sort of bringing the cultures together - I can't help but think it will influence others to look at what Mexican culture has done."

Still, I'm bummed few Hispanic chefs are getting any love from the MSM - there's certainly plenty to go around - but there's something to that as well. Jeff Bailey, a former Chicago-based New York Times reporter put it into a journalist's perspective. In a recent travel section feature, Bayless was only one of many, many Latino chefs, and other experts, he sourced for his story on Pilsen. Last month we talked about his Bayless quotes. "The type of people who get in [to stories] are those who truly help stories move along, have a particular knowledge and expertise," Bailey told me, "Bayless has all kinds of views."

So I asked Rick - who I bet you didn't know provides highly competitive full-ride culinary school scholarships and internships in his restaurants for Mexican-American students who flock to Frontera Grill from all over the country - to give the aspiring Hispanic chefs in Chicago some pointers.

"First you have to do your homework - you have to learn the history." Bayless said. "'This is just how my mother makes it' - that doesn't make a story. This is how it was created in this part of Veracruz, and it was made this way, with that from there ... is the story."

"But it's also really the flavors - you have to be a good cook, you gotta do all the rest of the work, and have a good personal story, and tell a good story about the food, and you have to have inherent passion for what you're making," Rick, who has no shortage of that, said. "People love to be around passion. It's very important to talk about the food with this great verve."

"The passion is the main ingredient."

Follow Esther J. Cepeda on Twitter: www.twitter.com/@ejc600words

Comments

[ChiGuy]

In the early 90s when Rick was first opening Frontera, I had the pleasure of working with him on developing the coffee he was to choose to serve as his house blend.
I found him every bit as personable as he comes-off on his show, "One Plate...".

There's no question that when it comes to Mexican cuisine and cooking styles, even the region by region differences, Mr. Bayless is without peer in Chicago.

That reminds me....It's been about 3 months since I enjoyed a meal at his place.
Hmmmm......

[Jude2004]

I credit having lived in Mexico for 3 months at the age of 14 with helping to turn me into a lifelong vegetarian. Except for corn tortillas and a few interesting fruits, I tasted *no* good food in Mexico. Perhaps my cousins are just lousy cooks, but I also traveled throughout Mexico for 6 weeks, eating and cooking out of markets, and I didn't taste anything exceptionally wonderful then either. That doesn't diminish my love for Mexico--its beauty, its warmth, and all the many great things that form the Mexico of my memory--but the food? Yuck. Many of our bastardized US versions are better, in part because our ingredients are better. I'll never understand Rick Bayless' affection for la verdadera comida mexicana.

[BusGreg]

Taste is a personal thing, said the donkey, and ate a bar of soap!
Having been to Mexico on many trips as a charter pilot, I had plenty of opportunity to taste Mexican Cuisine at different locations, but calling Americanized Mexican food better than the original is about as wrong as saying that a toddler's finger paintings are better than a Van Gogh or Rembrandt!

[joekzo]

Ok, I kept waiting to read the names of other overlooked Mexican chefs in Chicago, and.... nothing. I'm sure they're there. But why just write a story about how Bayless blots out the sun for everyone else and not even mention them? Rick has done nothing but work hard, and the tone of the article wasn't victimly, but even a name or two might have pointed some of us in another direction.