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Gioia Diliberto

Gioia Diliberto

Posted: April 4, 2009 06:27 PM

Michelle Obama's New Kind of Glamour


When Jackie Kennedy, accompanied by President Kennedy, arrived in Paris in May, 1961 on an official presidential trip, she was greeted by cheering crowds chanting "Vive Jackie!" The French admired her youth, beauty, grace and charm. But what made them fall in love with her was that she seemed so, well, French.

An unrepentant Francophile, Jackie had a degree in French literature, spoke fluent French and preferred the French pronunciation of her name: Jachleen. She arrived in Paris in a navy shantung suit by Chez Ninon, a chichi Park Avenue dressmaker that supplied her with copies of French couture, which she wore throughout the trip - except, that is, when she was wearing real Givenchy.

Now, almost half a century later, another American First Lady has swept triumphantly into France, this time swathed in black and fuchsia silk by the young, Thailand-born U.S. designer Thakoon Panichgul. The crowds have been as enthusiastic for Michelle Obama as they were for Jackie Kennedy, and the press as fawning. An article that ran on the web site for the Parisian newspaper L'Express was typical: Headlined, "The Ten Commandments of Michelle Obama's Style," it celebrated the First Lady's love of bright colors, pointed shoes, and bold accessories. All the clothes she's worn so far on the trip (with the exception of some Azzedine Alaia and an argyle sweater by the Japanese Junya Watanabe) are by American designers, including Michelle's favorite multi-culti design posse of the Cuban born Isabel Toldeo, the Taiwanese born Jason Wu, and Thakoon.

Could it be the French are ceding ground they've passionately clung to for more than 300 years? Are they admitting that when it comes to style, their authority is no longer absolute?

The fact that Michelle arguably outshone Carla Bruni, the wife of French President Nicholas Sarkozy and a former fashion mannequin at the first ladies' much anticipated first meeting -- on French soil no less -- is testament to Obama star power. At ceremonies at Strasbourg's Rohan palace during the second leg of the G20 Summit, Carla and Michelle both wore coats with bows, an uncanny coincidence suggesting they were channeling the same fashion fairy. Otherwise, they looked completely different. Carla's demure gray lambskin seemed downright boring next to Michelle's vibrant black silk dotted with fuchsia flowers. But it wasn't until the coats came off that Michelle's elegance really gleamed. Her slim fitting, three quarter sleeve fuchsia dress looked exactly right. It combined Asian elements with a whimsical femininity and completely washed out Carla's subdued gray sheath.

One gets the sense that Carla is dressing not to please herself but to conform to an idea of who she should be. Sarkozy has been quoted saying he hoped his wife would be the new Diana. There's not much chance of that, for no matter how often Carla is photographed in understated, traditional French clothes, the Italian born heiress can't obliterate her racy past of liaisons with rock stars (including the married Mick Jagger), and the nude photos of her on the internet.

Not only do Michelle's clothes project an authentic self -- confident, healthy, smart, uncynical -- they also reflect the spirit of the moment. There is something new in the air, a kind of youthful openness. Barack Obama harnessed it and rode it to the White House. And you can see it on the street, in the way young women wear their flirty skirts with bare legs and colorful handbags, the way they pair tank tops with fringed scarves and tuck their jeans into sleek boots.

Seismic social and economic shifts, like the ones we are experiencing now, often lead to fashion revolutions. After World War I, women shed their corsets and cut their hair, liberating themselves from restraining fashion, just as they freed themselves from Victorian ideas of women's subservience. Twenty-five years later, sick of the drab, skimpy clothes they'd worn throughout WWII, women turned the clock back to the Belle Epoque and embraced the opulent femininity of Christian Dior's New Look.

Today, in the wake of the Wall Street implosion there's a new kind of glamour, one that is relaxed, fun and accessible to all, and it's embodied by Michelle Obama. Even the First Lady's occasional style missteps don't disqualify her as a Fashion Star. Old Guard arbiters of chic like Oscar de la Renta might excoriate her for wearing a humble sweater to Buckingham Palace. And the London Daily Mail might tease her for letting the line of her body slimming underwear, what the Brit's call "magic pants," show through the fabric of her J.Crew skirt. But the truth is, the old rules no longer apply, and the snarky comments don't stick.

When Jackie Kennedy, accompanied by President Kennedy, arrived in Paris in May, 1961 on an official presidential trip, she was greeted by cheering crowds chanting "Vive Jackie!" The French admired he...
When Jackie Kennedy, accompanied by President Kennedy, arrived in Paris in May, 1961 on an official presidential trip, she was greeted by cheering crowds chanting "Vive Jackie!" The French admired he...
 
 
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12:39 AM on 04/07/2009
Michelle Obama's style is glorious. It knows no limit.
11:59 AM on 04/06/2009
Jackie Kennedy had more than beauty and style to her credit. She was highly educated and well traveled. She cared about issues that have nothing to with tha vagaries of fashion.

The same can be said of Michelle Obama and both women deserve more than Barbie Doll gushing from the fashionista vanguard.
11:01 AM on 04/06/2009
Hmm. Well, I don't think our First Lady outshone Carla Bruni. I think they both looked lovely. And I don't think Carla Bruni is dressing the way she is "suppose to," as much as dressing in what she likes and what looks good on her. She looks great in Dior, but she has a body build for it, which is a body build that is smaller boned, than American women have. This is a problem for American women wearing French and Italian designers. Unless they are very thin, it's difficult to wear the clothing. American designers have the tendency to make clothes for larger boned women, and some of our top designers, like Karan and Kors, make clothes for plus-sized women with wide selections in sizes 14+, and I would bet that our First Lady wears a 14, maybe, maybe a 12. She and I are the same height, and I always say that when I was young and could wear the European designers, I couldn't afford to. Now that I am older and can afford to, within limits, of course, I'm no longer thin enough to war them. I wonder, if Michelle hasn't gone through the same issue, so when she was able to afford more expensive clothing, she went to American designs, instead.
11:38 AM on 04/06/2009
Continued :)

Considering Michelle's body build, it doesn't suprise me that she has chosen American designers. What does surprise me is that she never chooses any of our top designers, not that there is anything wrong with this, at all. I'm just surprised. For example, Kors is the KING of sheath dresses, and our First Lady loves sheath dresses. I'm surprised she doesn't wear any Kors. I wonder, if she's making decisions based on where the clothing is made--choosing clothing made in the U.S., for example, over clothing made overseas, which much of Kors is--or trying to give credit to less-known designers because that's the kind of woman she is. I don't know. But, again, it doesn't really matter because she's beautiful and dresses well.
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12:14 PM on 04/06/2009
She wore Kors for her official WH portrait and on Oprah's magazine cover.
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luvangelHussein330
12:17 PM on 04/06/2009
You obviosuly havent a clue. Michelle on this trip alone wore Micheal kors staples...if you knew anything about the diesigner you would have been able to pick them out....
One ot the Cardigans, dresses, and pencil skirts she wore was from the micheal kors collection....
02:00 PM on 04/06/2009
Carla Bruni is a classic beauty. No argument there.
10:33 AM on 04/06/2009
LOL. Give me a break. It's going to take more the Michelle's style to take fashion from the French.
Michelle, she arrived in France, she was new, now she's JUST ONE OF THE REST. The more that is made of her style, the more the spotlight shines on her BIG MISTAKES. Give it rest.
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09:51 AM on 04/06/2009
Hello and thanks for this piece. What most of the prudes and fashion talibii seem to be missing is the emphasis on "New" kind of glamour. These are the people who never colored outside the line when they were young; who read Cosmo's Do's and Don'ts. Their rigidity has developed to the point, such as Bonnie Fuller, that they freak out and foam at the mouth as they reduce Michelle's choices into what is Right and what is Wrong. What a trap. They don't get it and they never will, I'm convinced. They're too invested in being right. Kinda like Bush/Cheney!

Personally, I find her choices fascinating; admittedly, sometimes I wince, but the more she surprises us, the more I love her and her fashion. It's all starting to gel for me and in a most endearing way. Europe loves Michelle. I am proud of our prez and First Lady.
08:30 AM on 04/06/2009
Are you kidding? Michelle Obama is giving Carla Bruni-Sarkozy a run for her money in fashion?
Puleeze. Mrs. Obama's attempt to become a walking maniken for every crackpot, incompetent, tasteless wanabee American designer has her looking worse then Ladybird Johnson, Laura Bush, and throw in Barbara Bush too. Wearing outsized bows, high-waist belts, horrendous use of color, kitten heels, and eye-popping prints have Michelle looking like Lurch on a psychedelic rampage after popping too many peyote buttons. Contrast her look with Carla Bruni's of understated elegance, tres chic, gorgeous color. Bruni is etherial, Michelle is space junk!
11:21 AM on 04/06/2009
Barbara Bush- seriously?!! What are you smoking?
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MLCooknc
11:48 AM on 04/07/2009
Isn't that the truth?! Unless you're under the influence, you'd see that neither of the Bush first ladies had any discernable sense of style, a common (and unfortunate) characteristic of both WASP and southern women. (BTW--I've lived most of my life in the South.)

While I don't like everything Mrs. O wears, I'm *thrilled* to see her use a lot of color and take chances even if some of her choices (like the bow) don't always work.
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pgurlatl
libby chic geek
01:25 PM on 04/06/2009
Sorry but Michelle O trumps Bruni any day because she doesn't have nude pics of her floating all over the internet. Talk about class.
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obamanation31
08:30 AM on 04/06/2009
The fact is she looks good in almost anything she wears because of the way she carries herself and her self confidence.
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obamanation31
08:28 AM on 04/06/2009
Can we plaease stop writing about Michelle's fashion? I am so sick of it. It's time we women judged her by not her style but her substance, which she has plenty.
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anelder
01:54 PM on 04/06/2009
Then why did you open this post?
08:27 AM on 04/06/2009
I've made a few comments on MO's fashion mis-steps - but ultimately, she remains a fashion icon, and I am knocked over by the fact that we have a tall, strong, proud African American woman as our First Lady - what could be more exciting, refreshing and revolutionary? I believe it's her revolutionary character that has the world on the edge of it's seat.

Go Michelle!
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08:25 AM on 04/06/2009
The really cool thing is, people with real lives achieving amazing goals, aren't the least bit interested in being anything but themselves.
If they'd spent their time worrying about the opinions of others, they'd still be plodding along trying to figure out who they really are.
If you have a room filled with one thousand people, you'll have one thousand different opinions about any subject you bring up. It's the ones who believe in themselves and follow their own dreams, that leave the rest of us in the dust.
05:58 AM on 04/06/2009
The next time someone remarks at how sexist Michelle Obama is treated....

No one cares anymore, but the same thing with "how sexist Hillary was treated"

remember? All people would talk about was Hillary's hair or outfits, etc and that was SO SEXIST....

...cuz a bunch of really sexist male pigs are....sitting around wondering what Michelle or Hillary are wearing or how they've done their hair today....

HELLO?

Ladies, the reason you get all of these SEXIST stories is because women read them. Period.
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05:12 AM on 04/06/2009
The French have much to envy. A national health care system that's number one in the world. Every French child who wants to, gets to go to college. The French have day care for working mothers. They have a shorter work week and a longer life span, just to name a few of their advantages over our broken system in America.
How either the French dress, on the lovely Michelle Obama decides to dress, is about as important in the grand scheme of things, as Jackie O's pilbox hats were to the Cuban Missile Crisis.
I understand some folks really care about this stuff, but Michelle can wear a potato sack for all I care, if her husband gets national health care enacted.
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05:42 AM on 04/06/2009
Oops. Should have been OR the lovely Michelle Obama, not on.
07:56 AM on 04/08/2009
8.2 % unemployment even with their system of highly regulated layoffs. Top marginal tax rate @ 40%, with payroll taxes included this can jump to 65%. National debt over 68% of GDP (doesn't include unfunded French Social Security obligations which pass 200% of GDP) Those aren't typos or arithmetical errors. Taxes consume 44% of GDP. Urban rioting of African/Muslim youth. Nascent anti-semitism. On the other hand, their first lady is truly objectively beautiful. How much longer to you think France can go on like this?
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05:07 AM on 04/06/2009
I wouldn't mind a cosmic shift in fashion and style, away from what Michelle has chosen the last 4 days. Ever since she got off the plane the outfits have gone downhill. A cardigan is never fashion forward, I don''t care what lable it has or what it is made out of, it is not meant for international business attire occasions. Protocol and a new stylist are needed ASAP. She is not elegant yet nor young at 45, yes younger than Laura and no one wants to go back to those looks. As a former Healthcare exec and lawyer she knows how to ask for good advice and counsel, I hope she asks soon. Love her ideas and focus on military families and girl power, now if she would just apply those smarts to a wardrobe, Yes she can!
03:46 AM on 04/06/2009
I agree with you phife, there were more criticisms of Michelle Obama on the huffington post alone than in the entire European press
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jeanrenoir
07:55 AM on 04/06/2009
What a shock! Wonder why?
12:43 AM on 04/06/2009
Look the french have long realized they're not emperial power they were, and even when it comes to fashion, wine and cheese they realize that other parts of the world can get good ideas, i mean the french in fashion are more humble than american in basketball depsite a loss in the olympics in 2002 and many non american start players in the NBA. So unless we stop our own arrogance as indicated by Obama during that trip, i do not see why Italians and French should stop theirs when it comes to Fashion... By the way There were more critics on HUffington Post about Michelle style than in the entire French press, no where in the french press was Michelle critisized agressively like Bonnie Fuller did, stating that "MIichelle lost her mind"
01:57 AM on 04/06/2009
Yeah I saw the Bonnie Fuller piece. I'm thinking she'll regret it when she finds herself on the outside, looking in.
03:41 AM on 04/06/2009
Yeah i saw that one too and i couldn't believe that you could say that someone has a lost her mind just because you did not like their outfit... I might not have lmiked everything she had on during to the european trip, but everytime it was proper, so how in the world Bonnie Fuller could insult Michelle saying she lost her mind... When the First Lady gave some inspirational speeches to teenage girls in London...