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Greg Voakes

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British Food Myths and the 'Summer of Sport'

Posted: 07/18/2012 5:45 pm

A summer of sport is being celebrated across the pond in the UK. Why? Because like Lord Alfred Douglas talking about a his forbidden love (and the people of the wizarding world talking about Ralph Fiennes) they're not permitted as a nation to name the thing they're really talking about.

As such, every routine sporting event has been bundled neatly into the summer of sport package -- Wimbledon, the British Open, Euro 2012, the Tour de France and the England versus South Africa test match cricket -- to get around the main event's naming restrictions (it rhymes with 'O'Limericks', by the way).

UK residents have plenty of reasons to raise an eyebrow at the unofficial term, which has been variously used in newspaper headlines, subscription TV campaigns and the cold, dark places in which brands shut out of sponsorship congregate to create content. For starters, most people are pretty sure that summer is just a hallmark season, celebrated by clothing stores in lieu of the dismal murk twixt spring and autumn. But there's also a degree of irony involved in encouraging an entire nation to vegetatively consume an entire season of physical exertion. And, if British people pride themselves on just one thing, it's their supposed ability to discern irony better than any other nation.

One multinational left out in the cold by the main event (for the ninth consecutive time, no less) is Burger King (though this is perhaps for the best considering past comments about British Food and Females). It's no secret that British food isn't exactly well-loved, and you're all going to be stuck politely pretending you like it. It's not like many UK citizens will be able to challenge your opinions face to face, either. The clogged arteries of the transport system and the bizarre ticket lottery will keep them all in their homes, even if the televised 'summer of sport' doesn't turn them into the lounge-livers Sebastian Coe wants them to be.

So let's break down the myths about British food, restaurants and eating, so they don't turn into self-fulfilling prophecies: bad food can be found in any nation, and if you're trained to go looking for it -- and not the good stuff -- you're only going to find it.

Myth #1: British food is bland and boring

There's a strange disconnect between stereotypes of British food and the established facts of British eating habits, as we will see later on in this rundown of myths. The British love of spice contradicts the expectation that British food is bland -- historically, the British were a significant part of the spice trade and this has had a massive influence on the kind of food British people eat every day. Even if you don't allow certain spicy dishes into the canon of British food, there are enough spice-packed British sausages and fantastic mustards to paste onto your roast dinners to disprove the most wounding of accusations.

Another stereotype that should be more positive than it actually is: the association of British dishes with roast beef. Britain farms fantastic beef, and has done so for centuries. However, unlike other places where the association has become an asset (Kobe and its allegedly beer-fed cattle, for example), the British have become apologetic about it all. They really needn't be.

Myth #2: Fish and chips are a popular takeout food

The act of battering a fish, frying it with chips and wrapping them both in newspaper makes for a poetic contrast in terms of Britain's island identity. Next to the delicate art of Japanese sushi, it's a crass treatment of piscine life, an oafish mastery of the waves the nation claimed to 'rule' for so long. Perhaps that's why the dish fits so nicely into opinions about British Food. But how popular are fish and chips as a form of takeout food? Even in the UK, they're actually a bit of a novelty -- a tourist treat for seaside visits.

In rankings for ten cities provided by Internet-based takeaway service Just-Eat, fish and chips placed fifth in four cities, and fourth in just one (Edinburgh). In fact, fish and chips appear to be slightly less popular than Turkish takeaway. So what is the national favourite takeaway? Five of those ten cities (Brighton, Coventry, Edinburgh, Southampton and London) say Chinese, but Italian follows close behind and Indian takeaway is a consistent third choice.

Myth #3: Etiquette matters

It wouldn't be a post about debunking British stereotypes if we didn't tackle the 'afternoon tea and table manners' extension of the view that all British people are Jane Austen throwbacks. According to Wikipedia (and accompanied with thorough citation, so who would dare to dispute it?), British table manners dictate that "the host takes the first bite unless he or she instructs otherwise," "applying garnishes before the food is tasted is viewed as an insult to the cook" and "[a soup] spoon should never be put into the mouth, and soup should be sipped from the side of the spoon, not the end."

Apparently, "this article has multiple issues," chief among them presumably being the fact that the Queen herself would have to be having a bad day to bother calling you out on half of them.

Myth #4: Metric burgers

Jules: Do you know what they call a Quarter Pounder with cheese in France?
Brett: No.
Jules: Tell him, Vincent.
Vincent: Royale with cheese.
Jules: Royale with cheese. Do you know why they call it a Royale with cheese?
Brett: Because of the metric system?

Pulp Fiction fans visiting the world's largest (temporary) McDonald's can relax: the UK has Quarter Pounders despite signing up to the devilish metric system. Furthermore, if you take a trip over the Channel, it's actually a "Royal Cheese."

Myth #5: British food actually exists (or exists as you think it does)

This is probably a little more controversial, but to me 'British Food' is less a meaningful distinction, more a vague conglomeration of dishes that fall into the inevitably dis-preferred 'other' category in people's minds. In fact, many boundaries which the British themselves establish around their food are relics of colonial thinking: dishes like the balti and chicken tikka masala are considered 'Indian food' despite the likelihood that they were created in British industrial cities by people who may well consider themselves British citizens. Today, this is true on a grand scale, with many innovative chefs mixing and matching tastes in quintessentially British dishes.

Even within Europe, the British are responsible for validating many meaningless distinctions about regional foods. Quality cheeses, for example, are associated with France and Italy, yet the British Cheese Board reckons there are 700 distinct local cheeses -- some 300 more than both of the aforementioned nations. British food as we know it is a relic of a 'default' in a time when the nation imposed its rule on others and used its great industrial wealth to import the best of foreign produce: things tend to taste better when you've spent more money on them.

 

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A summer of sport is being celebrated across the pond in the UK. Why? Because like Lord Alfred Douglas talking about a his forbidden love (and the people of the wizarding world talking about Ralph Fie...
A summer of sport is being celebrated across the pond in the UK. Why? Because like Lord Alfred Douglas talking about a his forbidden love (and the people of the wizarding world talking about Ralph Fie...
 
 
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07:24 AM on 07/21/2012
A Brit will say pasta not pahsta. Americans say pahsta not pasta. Go figure.
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tiredofpc
retired: RN,Adult NP,USAR
12:41 AM on 07/21/2012
Okay, there's a great deal in the positive to be said for British breakfasts, and Irish breakfasts as well.
They're amazingly varied, with lots of marvelous things to choose from and are hearty enough to take you straight through to tea time....which you can have in a pub. Enjoy!
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Tommygun264
2Q2BSTR8
12:38 AM on 07/21/2012
I was just in London last week. We stayed in a little B&B in the village of South Ealing, well outside London's city center, one of the last stops on the London Underground's Piccadilly Line just before it ends at Heathrow Airport. On our first & last nights there we had dinner at one of the village pubs called "The Rose & Crown", which looked like an old movie set depicting a traditional English pub, complete with a sitting room & fireplace to one side as you entered, and a bar & lounge area where locals gathered to drink & eat on the other side. There was even an upright piano which they used for community sing-a-longs on Friday nights. Aside from the two traditional English dishes of fish & chips and steak & ale pie, the menu featured American-style hamburgers, an Indian-style curry dish, and California Pizza Kitchen style pizzas with a British flavor (I had the braised beef pizza, which featured mushrooms and Stillson cheese, which is like a UK version bleu cheese). All the sit-down restaurants we saw in downtown London featured either American burgers & bbq, Italian, Indian or Chinese dishes. Other than the fish & chips and meat pies (which I never ordered because the name conjured visions of Tim Burton's version of "Sweeney Todd") there weren't any signature "British" dishes to speak of.
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MISTERWRITER
Author- Screenwriter - Publisher - Reporter
12:14 AM on 07/21/2012
American fast food with multiple extra wide patrons all waiting in line for that value meal pretty much sums up the average Joe's culinary experience.
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Tom95134
11:35 PM on 07/20/2012
British food has significantly improved over the years with the influence of foods from India and the Middle East. Prior to about 1980 is was pretty boring.

The English Pastie would be my food of preference to take with me to any of the Olympic venues for sating my appetite. Easy to carry, easy to eat, and about all you need is a little salt and maybe some catchup or English mustard.
11:24 PM on 07/20/2012
London is the only city I've ever ordered a baked potato and had it come to me boiled. It's not a myth if there's truth to the stereotypes.
orange county man
guy from the OC
11:21 PM on 07/20/2012
Britain has great Indian food. Even in smaller towns and villages.
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Gadgetman
No sense of humor? That's not funny!
11:14 PM on 07/20/2012
What's the difference between heaven and hell? In heaven the French are the cooks, the English are the police, and the Germans are the mechanics. In hell the French are the mechanics, the English are cooks, and the Germans are the police.
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04:21 PM on 07/21/2012
...and it's all managed by the Italians.
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chicgogo
One Nation under Mad,,,ness
11:13 PM on 07/20/2012
I get annoyed with my fellow Americans who want everything to be like back home when traveling abroad. One thing many less than worldly Americans notice in England is the lack of dressing on leafy green salads. If requested you are often given a tablespoon of mayonnaise, which doesn't fly with those accustomed to a half bottle of creamy bacon ranch dressing at home.

Then there's the issue of ice, or more like he lack thereof. Thelma Lou form Texarkana wants a glass filled to the brim so it will melt her Jack and Coke down to 20 proof. and she isn't' having any of that paltry two cube business as is usually even when requested.

Cold bake beans with eggs, yuck! Where are the grits? Welsh Rarebit? Is that like a bunny?

Fellow Americans: when in Rome, do as the Romans!
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Someone Out There
..................................................
10:57 PM on 07/20/2012
The best restaurant I've ever been to was a little Italian restaurant in (London's) Soho about 15 years ago. It seated less than two dozen people and the meal cost about the same as a meal at a chain restaurant in America at the time (believe my plate was $10-12.)

English cuisine is very multicultural.
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verylargehat
10:51 PM on 07/20/2012
I had fabulous dining experiences while visiting London in 2005. Just excellent!
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verylargehat
10:49 PM on 07/20/2012
I don't understand why they've renamed the quarter pounder. Don't they still use imperial measurements in the UK?
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Tom S Cedar Mill
This ain't no party, this ain't no disco.
10:47 PM on 07/20/2012
Eat your meat. You can't have any pudding if you don't eat your meat.
How can you have any pudding if you don't eat your meat?
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bblueskye
10:38 PM on 07/20/2012
I've heard a bit about genuine British cuisine. Pork pies and red pudding, although I hear the red pudding is a Scottish dish.
10:37 PM on 07/20/2012
Hmmmm... I was in Birmingham for 2+ years. Enjoyed the Pub grub. My favorite food included

1. Bangers and mash
2. Fish and Chip
3. Sausage Sandwich
4. Baguette sandwiches (liked chicken carnation the best)
5. Donner Kebabs

Joint that i enjoyed the most was a chain called Nandos. though not British food, the chicken is heavenly...