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For the past three weeks, I have been visiting my family in the northern Gaza Strip. I was shocked and devastated by the de-development of the Gaza Strip. It was even worse than I imagined. Destruction and destitution are rampant. Combine that with sky high unemployment rates and limited or no freedom of movement, and you have the perfect combination for a failed state and a society in disarray. And to make matters worse, I am stuck here.
I am now officially stranded in this narrow strip of land. I am being told that it will be "unlikely" for me to make my way out of Gaza due to the ongoing Israeli-Egyptian siege that has closed borders on every front. Gaza is the largest open air prison in the world.
On June 26, I was able to cross into the Gaza Strip through the Rafah crossing on the south of the small territory. It was an extremely rare course of events, especially given the current political tensions. Egypt officially does not open the border since they are "under no obligation to do so" as long as the Palestinians fail to stick to their 2005 agreement brokered between Fatah and the Israelis by former Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice.
I flew from London to Cairo and expected to be turned away and sent back once we landed in Egypt as the Egyptian Security had done to me three weeks earlier in my first attempt to visit Gaza. Miraculously, I was not sent back on the same plane I came in on.
I quickly exited the airport and caught the next bus towards the besieged coastal territory. I arrived at my destination, only to wait for a second bus which actually goes into the strip. It just so happened that a delegation of Palestinian athletes with special needs was coming back from a competition in Tunisia that same day. So the Egyptians opened the borders and thought they would squeeze in a few more Palestinians to fill the bus headed for Rafah. Letting people into Gaza happens to be a profitable business where both buses and government exit fees are quite high.
After several delays and a daunting trip, we crossed Rafah and made it to the Palestinian side of the border. To their credit, the Egyptians opened the crossing for us on a Friday, the Muslim day of worship. They hardly ever open it.
On the Palestinian side of the border, the officers of the new government received us and checked our passports, stamped them, checked our luggage at the counters for customs and then let us go. They were quite courteous and very professional, regardless of my ideological differences with them.
It was joyous to see my family, some of whom I had not seen for 9 years. I went on to take care of some personal business, which included getting engaged. I also met with a few NGO and civil organizations to learn about some of their challenges, the types of aid they have been receiving and if there were any needs for further funding. I work for a non-partisan, non-religious Palestinian-American charity that provides grants to civil society groups in the Occupied Palestinian Territories.
It was good to get a feel for what is currently taking place on the receiving end of the aid in Gaza. It was a great learning experience as I managed to survey some of the devastated areas and to assess the damages the latest offensive caused. Such knowledge will be of a great help to me in my work back in Washington D.C.
In preparing to return to Washington and to leave my family once again, I contacted the local authorities in charge of travel. They informed me that they were no longer taking any names for "the list," that pseudo-VIP list that allows people to get on the bus that goes out of Gaza and onto the Egyptian side of the border. As I came to find out, the list has some 3000 Gazans on it. None of them know when the borders will open. In other words, using the Rafah crossing is out of the question. I was also told that some important "Hamas figures" could push my papers through with the Egyptians, but I readily declined that option for obvious reasons.
Since I work for an American charity and lived in the States longer than I have lived anywhere else, I contacted the American Consulate in Jerusalem. I never knew such courteous and creative ways of telling me: "No, we really cannot help you" existed. The same answer came from the American Embassy in Egypt who actually went on to explain why they could not, nor would they help me. I have also tried some leads in Ramallah with President Abbas to help coordinate my departure form Gaza, but nothing has materialized yet.
Honestly, I cannot wait to get back to my Columbia Heights studio apartment and to get back to my old job where I can put what I learned into action. I know that some might see me going to Gaza as a boneheaded decision, but I have many good personal and professional reasons to have taken this trip. For now, I can only wait to get out on time.
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Hani,
Did you say engaged? Congratulations. I say, hang out with the family, enjoy yourself, and keep us updated. You can make the best of this situation and prove to Israel that there are consequences for their actions. Palestine needs for the world to hear their story. One of the biggest challenges for Palestine has been gaining exposure in the western media, but here you are. What an opportunity.
"officially"
Very funny!
Good luck.
Hani,
What stops you from using the powers that be, including Hamas, from getting out?
Like it or not, Hamas is the elected government deposed by US and Israeli machinations.
Why would they operate as anything else after going through so much? They have had the **** bombed out of them because they wereare perceived as governing and yet, they are *still* governing.
Hamas has legitimate political and negotiating sources in Egypt and undoubtedly can grease the wheels of border crossing and get you out.
You have a phenomenal and in my view historical chance to show that there is a functioning government in Gaza that can make things work despite Israel's illegal occupation.
(And illegal it is folks, go look at the "Gaza Disengagement Plan" - that document basically spells out violations of sovereignty or some sort of pseudo-sovereignty that is commonly thought of as the future Palestinian state.)
So Hani, just get on out and then you can tell the world about it.
This reminds me of Documenta_11. I can't wait to hear the rest.
Good luck!!!
Sarcasm:
Detected.
Prior comment by Ira7:
"When they denounce terrorism and support Israel's right to exist, the sane world might actually give a crap about them."
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2009/07/14/hamas-accuses-israel-of-d_n_232603.html?show_comment_id=27136594#comment_27136594
Did that have anything to do with this gentleman here, who is denouncing Hamas?
Well, Mr. Almadhoun, Gaza is enemy territory under the illegal occupation by Hamas after a military coup.
As an American visiting North Korea you've had many difficulties moving in and out as well.
Note:
It is Israel who is responsible for the siege, not Hamas.
Advice:
Don't mock a man for the "crime" of visiting his family in defiance of a total Israeli blockade. It doesn't flatter you.
NEWS FLASH!!! (from Jan. 2006)
Islamic group Hamas has won a surprise victory in Wednesday's Palestinian parliamentary elections.
Preliminary results give Hamas 76 of the 132 seats in the chamber, with the ruling Fatah party trailing on 43.
Sure sounds like "illegal occupation by Hamas after a military coup" to me...
You are conveniently leaving out the military take over by Hamas the summer after these elections. Yes, Hamas won a round of regional elections and, because of that, had the largest representational block in the PA legislature. However, Fatah and Hamas failed to figure out how to exercise coordinated control as the PA in Gaza. Hamas took over militarily and now rules Gaza alone.
There is no Fatah presence there today. The President of the PA cannot (and has not) gone there. There is no functioning PA security apparatus in Gaza. There is just Hamas.
It is not inaccurate to state either that Hamas won the 2006 regional elections or that Hamas took over the strip in a military coup. Both have occurred.
Illegal occpation by Hamas..oh dear. Very sad.
Hani,
It is outrageous that the American embassy in Egypt & the consulate in Jerusalem won't help you. I hope that all turns out well for you & your family. The Obama adm has NOT been vocal enough about the siege & war on Gaza. The Egyptian govt has been derelict also in helping the people of Gaza. Good luck & keep up your blogging.
hey i know the feeling, anytime i visit my family, time just drags every moment into an eternity
Good luck to you Hani,
Unfortunately because of your ethnic background, the american and european governments have no interest in helping you. If you were white - it might create a media furor and they would take notice.
Israel can only get away with its torture of the Palestinians because they are regarded as lesser human beings by many. Its a shame. Its a sickening horror in fact - that here in 2009 the worlds most powerful nations can still act like the imperial slavetraders of the 18th century, but the fact remains.
Why is this OK with the world? The US could lean on Egypt a little and get the Gaza borders open for special crossings like this one, as well as for humanitarian supplies. Israel, of course, is delighted with Egypt's fear of Hamas, because it allows them to put the screws to Gaza and basically make life a total misery in the world's largest prison.The solution is simple. Egypt needs a democratic government, Israel nees to end all occupation, and Hamas, Fatah, and Israel need to de-militarize under international supervision. Now, let's get to work!
So glad you were able to go and to bear witness. I hope you're able to get out soon with all the information you must have now to tell the world about what is going on there.
Please take good care and blog here whilst you're there. I would think Hamas would love to help you get out and tell your story without bribes. It's to their benefit.
Sending good thoughts your way. I'm so sorry that your family has to live with such chaos, and I hope that you're able to get home soon.
Good luck getting out of Gaza and back to the states, this is a horrific and unjust siege that all Americans should be concerned about.
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