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Ir Amim

Ir Amim

Posted: June 14, 2010 10:26 PM

How United Is Jerusalem? A Tour of Palestinian Neighborhoods and Israeli Settlements

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Reported by Ziva Galili

The recent clashes in East Jerusalem, though limited in scope and duration, are forcing us again to question the presentation of Jerusalem as a united city. Just a few weeks ago, on Jerusalem Day, Israeli politicians and settlers celebrated "Eternally United Jerusalem" and swore it will never be partitioned again. But a recent tour of some of Jerusalem's Palestinian neighborhoods uncovered how divided it is today, 43 years since Israel announced the annexation of East Jerusalem and the creation of a united city. The divisions are palpable and can be seen everywhere in East Jerusalem. For the most part they are the result of Israel's long-term neglect of municipal services for Palestinian residents of the city. But they have become more acute and visible because of the systematic encroachment of Israeli settlers on Palestinian neighborhoods, especially those located in the most prized and sensitive area surrounding the Old City, known as the "Holy Basin" or "Historic Basin."

My tour of East Jerusalem was guided by Ir Amim Field Researcher, Ahmad Sub Laban. Much of Sub Laban's working week is spent in the Palestinian neighborhoods of East Jerusalem, where he spots and investigates new construction, records the state of municipal infrastructure and services, and speaks to residents about problems of al (our blog from September 2009 reported on his role in Ir Amim's campaign to register Palestinian children in state-funded schools). Not many people have as intimate a knowledge of life in East Jerusalem as that developed by Sub Laban.

Our route followed the chain of Israeli enclaves built by settler organizations, forming a ring around the "Holy Basin." From south to north, they include Nof Zion, Kidmat Zion, Ma'alot David, Ma'ale Zeitim, Ir David, Khoshen, Beit Orot, Karm el Mufti, Shepherd Hotel, Glassman Compound, and Shim'on Hatzadik. In one neighborhood after another, all along this "ring" we saw physical evidence of the gapping differences between the municipal services available to Palestinians and those provided to Israeli settlers.

Our first stop was in Jabal Mukaber, which covers the crest and slopes of a steep hill on the southern rim of Greater Jerusalem. The separation wall closes on it from the east, separating it from its Sheikh Sa'ad section. To the west, Jabal Mukaber overlooks the Old City, a breathtaking view in daylight and at night. The view is one way to sell the luxury apartments of Nof Zion, a new Israeli settlement on the western slope of Jabal Mukkaber, intended for wealthy American Jews. The ads call it a "private community." No mention of the Palestinians living all around.

Driving through Jabal Mukaber one moves from the developed world into the "third world" and back, all within the space of half a mile. Starting on a regular Israeli road--4 lanes, flower-planted road divider, sidewalks--you suddenly find yourself on a narrow road, steep and winding, riddled with potholes, no sidewalks in view. Only a few of the usual green-painted garbage dumps that are ubiquitous in urban Israel are to be seen, and they are all overflowing with garbage. In one of them the residents had set fire to the waste, in apparent despair of ever seeing the garbage collected. One shutters at the thought of the pollutants freed into the air where children play in the streets.

But this is not the only danger to children in Jabal Mukaber. The road connecting the neighborhood with its school is in an especially bad condition, its shoulders strewn with enormous cement pipes. Here is evidence to a promised new road that was to serve both Jabal Mukaber and Nof Zion. The project was stopped midway and in place of an improved road there is the eyesore and physical danger of the deserted pipes. Children walking to school and back must choose between wiggling their way among the pipes or walking on the dangerously narrow road.

We continue north to Ras el Amoud. Twelve years ago, in the midst of Netanyahu's first term as premier minister, this was the first Palestinian neighborhood outside the Old City to be targeted by Israeli settlers, attracted by its proximity to the Jewish cemetery on Mount Olive and the view on Temple Mount. Today, there are two large settler compounds in Ras el Amoud and plans are afoot to increase their population many folds, as well as build a country club and other amenities for the new residents - all in the midst of a Palestinian neighborhood that suffers from overcrowding, no decent waste disposal, shockingly few schools, and no parks.

Still, this part of Ras el Amoud does not prepare the visitor for what lies just a few hundred feet away. Right in the middle of the enormous Mount Olive cemetery stands a small neighborhood of crowded, patched up houses. Like all the Palestinian neighborhoods we visited, its residents pay municipal property taxes. But in this part of Ras el Amoud you will not find evidence of even the most basic municipal services, such as paved roads, safe electrical wires, or garbage receptacles. The two approach roads to the neighborhood are barely passable: one winds and rises steeply among the walled-in cemetery plots, so narrow that when two cars meet one must reverse to the next intersection to allow the other to pass. The second road is an unpaved, steep path overhung with electrical wires barely higher than a Jeep's roof.

Between Ras el Amoud and the Old City lies the village of Silwan, the target in recent years of intensive settlers' activity, including the development of the Ir David archeological garden. We did not stop in Silwan, which was the focus of a special Ir Amim report and two of our previous blogs. Instead, we drove up to A-Sheikh, a hill that rises across the valley from Temple Mount/Haram el Sharif and is home to several Christian monasteries. Tourists and pilgrims arrive by the busloads, but like the local residents they must make their way among overflowing garbage dumps. Here, too, the residents are reduced to open air incineration as the only way to handle uncollected garbage. The stench of burning waste welcomes all visitors.

We continue up the hill to Augusta Victoria - a 19th century German hospital and a visual landmark on Jerusalem's eastern skyline. Several Palestinian hospitals have located here, making it the heart of Palestinian medical services. The area appears cleaner and more orderly, but no thanks to the municipal government. Separating Augusta Victoria from the Old City is a ring of settlements of various kinds, including the chain of parks that is forming around the "Holy Basin."

Just a couple of minutes' drive down the hill from Augusta Victory we come to Beit Orot - a yeshiva that has recently received permission to expand into a residential neighborhood. Further down the hill, in the valley that encircles the walls of the Old City, we come to the park Ein Zurim being developed by the nearby settlement of Beit Zurim. The plan is for this park to link with the King's Garden that is projected to replace many Palestinian homes in the Al Bustan section of Silwan. Many Palestinian homes and fields are located within the projected circle of parks and many of the homes face demolition orders.

We continue northward to the sprawling neighborhood of Sheikh Jarrah. This relatively affluent neighborhood is now being targeted by at least five different settlers' initiatives, all of them intended, above all, to make it impossible for an Israeli government to agree to a partition of Jerusalem along demographic lines. One case in particular has become a cause celebre for Palestinians and their Israeli and international supporters - the struggle of 28 families (all refugees who lost their homes in Israel during the war of 1948) against eviction from their homes in Sheikh Jarrah.

As we have seen on this tour, the fight to keep Jerusalem "united" is raging on. Two rings are forming around the "Holy Basin" to block a possible partition: one composed of settlements, the other of parks. They are strangling the Palestinian population today, and could seal the fate of Jerusalem in the future. Meanwhile, the Palestinian residents of East Jerusalem are deprived by "their" municipal government of basic services to which they are entitled and for which they pay through property taxes.

 
 
 
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Aja Mazin
11:27 PM on 06/15/2010
israel wants peace.

a piece of this and and a piece of that.....

perhaps they want the whole pie.
05:03 PM on 06/15/2010
Jerusalem is NOT a settlement. Palestinians can claim anything they want, that does not mean we have to admit the legitimacy of their claim. Parts of Jerusalem were illegally occupied by Jordan after 1948 when they attacked the new State of Israel. They ethnically cleansed all the Jewish inhabitants from the area they occupied. They destroyed synagogues, refused Jews the right to pray at holy sites including the Western Wall, & they even used Jewish tombstones to pave latrines.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Balzac
02:35 AM on 06/16/2010
What Ir Amim has written is what I had expected. I call it "ethnic encroachment" because it is gradual. I would like to know if there is a situation here wherein families are losing their homes, are they going to be compensated for the value of those homes and the cost of relocating?

Of particular concern are the 28 families who've already moved once after the war in 1948. If something like "imminent domain" is being used, there must be compensation.

I've read the allegations of the Jordanian forces taking homes from Jews in East Jerusalem in 1948, as well as the desecration of Jewish tombstones, and the destruction of synagogues. It seems important for Israel and Jordan to agree on objectively verified historical accounts. There must be a statute of limitations on the historical grievances.

The struggle for space between Jews and Muslims in the metropolitan area of Jerusalem must turn to financial competition, not militant activity.
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kennyfloyd
My Micro-bio is empty
04:45 PM on 06/22/2010
So following your logic,(if one can call it that) 50 years from now some powerful Palestinian force could start knocking down Jewish houses. When the world complains, they will argue, well look what they did to us 50 years ago. If the reverse was true today you would be crying bloody murder. Hypocrite.
01:45 PM on 06/15/2010
The unfairness in Jerusalem is actually throughout Israel.

.S. to supporters of Israel: If you have never lived here, I urge you to awaken the dormant Zionist inside you, and come see what is actually happening on the ground here. Look this disaster in the face. Take a good long look. Spend more time here than a holiday week at the King David. Ask yourself if what you see before your eyes represents a just social order. Live here, work here, and travel here. You don’t like what Dr Finkelstein says? You don’t believe him? Fine. Then prove him wrong. He has ample sources to support his claims. Prove him wrong. I wish he was wrong.
http://www.normanfinkelstein.com/from-an-israeli-correspondent/
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Whitney Kyle
11:26 AM on 06/16/2010
Fanned and faved. Thank you.
01:39 PM on 06/15/2010
The Jews lived in Israel for thousands of years before Islam was incepted.
Who is occupying whose land?
01:54 PM on 06/15/2010
You´re making an invalid comparison. Jews refers to a distinct ethnicity, but Islam is a religion that crosses ethnic boundaries.

As for who´s occupying who´s land (and I get SOOO tired of making this point to those whove fallen for Zionist and Israeli propaganda) the genetics clearly shows that Palestinians have been in the area for millennia. They are the descendants of Jews, Christians and local Pagans who converted to Islam, not new entrants - that would be the European colonizers.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
TheLonelyGod
The oncoming storm
06:22 PM on 06/15/2010
The Palestinians are Arabs.

The Arabs invaded Palestine in the 8th century.

Conclusion: The Palestinians are the descendants of invaders.
01:55 PM on 06/15/2010
And some of those Jews became Muslims when Islam began.

Nice try at selective history.
01:31 PM on 06/15/2010
"How United Is Jerusalem? A Tour of Palestinian Neighborhoods and Israeli Settlements "
should say
How united is Jerusalem? A tour of Israeli Neighborhoods and Palestinian settlements.
01:43 PM on 06/15/2010
To bad you know nothing of history.
09:36 AM on 06/15/2010
Powerful article. And I am curious to see how people justify the most important fact mentoned:

"Meanwhile, the Palestinian residents of East Jerusalem are deprived by "their" municipal government of basic services to which they are entitled and for which they pay through property taxes."

When you force people to pay taxes for services that you then don't provide based on religion or race...that is a lot of things, but a fair and free country ain't it. There is no way to justify that sort of theft and inhumane behavior. Although Soweto and the slums of Johannesburg being ringed by nice, suburban homes owned only by white people was certainly defended by the Afrkaners and their fans for a very long time so I'm sure the Israeli government won't let their right to racism slip through their fingers without a fight.
08:14 AM on 06/15/2010
I agree with the author. Jerusalem was much more united when it was under Jordanian rule (it was never under any Palestinian rule). After they ethnically cleansed the majority Jewish eastern sector of the city in 1947 (the Jews were given 24 hours to leave without their property), the Jordanians then destroyed over 50 Jewish religious institutions and were about to destroy the holiest site in Judiasm---the Western wall when Israel recaptured E. Jerusalem in the 1967 war.
01:57 PM on 06/15/2010
You might want to be carefull with that whole "historical precedent" thing, after all if you take a quick look at history you´ll find there´s PLENTY of historical precedent for treating Jews badly.....

Just because the Jordanian Government actid badly towards the Jews of Jerusalem is no excuse for the Israeli government to act barbarically towards people under its care.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
ConstitutionCrusader
06:21 AM on 06/15/2010
aaAAAAaaaaaaaaagh.
08:14 AM on 06/15/2010
aaaaAAAAaaaaaaagh!!!!!!!!!
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
ConstitutionCrusader
11:40 AM on 06/15/2010
yeah, pretty much.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Wisdo
semantics shamantics
06:09 AM on 06/15/2010
Such blatant racism and callous cruelty from the Israeli Authorities, not to mention the ashole settlers who get up early every morning to have more time to torment their palestinian neighbours. Where do these people get all their bile from?
08:55 AM on 06/15/2010
great blog Wisdo . . . don't know where they get their bile from but it sure is poisonous
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
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09:07 AM on 06/15/2010
Same can be said about the Palestinians, but see, no peace wanting, peace loving person would dwell on such non sense, as a sane person, one that envisions peace in the region for both the Palestinians and Israelis knows that such hate talk is what stalls this process, that such hate talk is only for those who seek revenge and the punishment of one peoples over the other.

Repulsive.
11:36 AM on 06/15/2010
hutzpanit - not really.
The Palestinians are under military occupation and despite this most do want peace.
Repulsive is how I'd describe your twisted comment.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Aja Mazin
06:55 PM on 06/16/2010
i doubt that you will ever be accused of "peace wanting".

Hutzpanit ,
you write:

"English must not be your first language"

that is not hate talk.
but it is an insult which is a step in creating an environment of hatred.

shame on you!
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SageSpencer
Angel brought Him the leaden heart & the dead bird
02:56 AM on 06/15/2010
"Anybody can observe the Sabbath, but making it holy surely takes the rest of the week."
Alice Walker
02:39 AM on 06/15/2010
Israel has become what they profess to hate.
02:02 AM on 06/15/2010
Rome-Catholics
Jerusalem-Jews
Mecca-Muslims
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
FairuzGhowar
08:51 AM on 06/15/2010
huh????? Try all 3 abrahamic myths= Jerusalem.......
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
lbsaltzman
Permaculture and Sustainability
09:18 AM on 06/15/2010
You can use all the religious arguments you want, but they don't justify the ethnic cleansing of Palestinians by Israel.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
syllable
12:19 AM on 06/15/2010
One extreme begets another, begets another, be....
11:25 PM on 06/14/2010
This story would be 10 times more powerful with pictures
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
Khirad
12:34 AM on 06/15/2010
You may get snark for that, but I agree. Not a criticism of the writing, but some things the written word cannot convey properly.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Whitney Kyle
12:14 PM on 06/16/2010
If you Google Earth the area, you can distinguish from space the Isreali settlements and the slums of the Indigenous people. You can travel about looking at the rooftops, streets, and green or lack thereof. Funny thing is, a slum looks like a slum when viewing the rooftops as much as viewing the facades. Each homeland within Greater Israel is visible from space by an enclosure around a slum.

Check it out. It speaks volumes about the truth. Of particular interest, follow the Walls around the West Bank and Gaza. When you build walls around yourself, that is self defense. When you build walls around others, that is a prison. When you build them around a people, that is Apartheid. When your goal is to replace those people, that is Genocide. If put the three together that is crimes against humanity. I'm just saying...
11:21 PM on 06/14/2010
Israel is the only abuser of human rights and the major of violator of international law that is accepted by the west as a democracy. They also receives enormous financial aid from western mainstream governments. It is the west that has put Israel on a pedestal and the exception to and above international law.