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Jamie Schler

Jamie Schler

Posted: November 16, 2010 09:28 AM


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There is a waning generation of women of a certain age and class in France who raised their children the very old-fashioned way and my Mother-in-law is one of them. She bundled her babies, swaddling them tightly in layers of clothing until they could no longer move, even in the heat of summer. She plumped them up with bottle upon bottle of bouillie, baby formula and then milk thickened with cereal, from the tenderest of age. One by one as they each turned a year old, they were strapped - yes strapped - to the potty at regularly daily intervals and left there, and she still considers that her kids were potty trained at one. She sent them off to religious schools, turning them over brains and souls into the hands of the brothers and sisters with total confidence, never once asking a question or verifying what the children were learning or doing, allowing a free hand at punishment, just having complete faith in their knowledge and authority to do right by her offspring. And she raised them all on huge steaming bowls of dense, thick, sweetened pasta or rice.

Riz au Lait (or the same made with tiny elbow macaroni), rice cooked down in milk and then heavily sweetened was simply the one weighty snack meant to fill up or caler her growing children on the cheap, to insulate them against the cold and damp of winter or to simply add on the pounds, an old-fashioned way to help them grow faster and protect their bodies against whatever could ail them. The classic nursery treat.

And oddly enough, this didn't turn my husband off of the stuff. He begs me to make him Riz au Lait, good old-fashioned Rice Pudding, thick, creamy and sweet, his ultimate comfort food. I recently was in the mood to bake and opening up my refrigerator found to my horror that we were out of eggs. As it was a national holiday here in France, no eggs, I knew, were to be had. Husband jumped in and excitedly exclaimed, "Ah, the perfect reason to make me Riz au Lait! No eggs!" And so I did. And here is the recipe I came up with, a traditional Rice Pudding, simple, homey and sweet, thick yet creamy smooth, the rice melting in the mouth, just a kiss of vanilla and as sweet as you like. Just perfect.

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RIZ AU LAIT

Serves about 6 depending on how much one eats.

7 oz (200 g) uncooked rice for risotto or pudding
3 ¼ cups (750 ml) whole milk or half low-fat milk + half light or heavy cream
7 - 8 Tbs (100 - 120 g) sugar or to taste
1 vanilla bean *
Pinch of salt
1 Tbs (15 g) unsalted butter

* if you don't have a vanilla bean, simply add half teaspoon of vanilla extract to the cooking rice and milk.

Place the rice in a colander with tiny holes (so as not to lose any rice out the bottom!) and rinse under running water until the water runs clear. Drain.

Place the rinsed rice in a saucepan and cover with water; bring the water to a boil and allow to boil for 5 minutes. Drain the rice.

Return the drained rice to a medium-sized saucepan with the whole milk (or half low-fat milk and half cream), 1 tablespoon of the sugar and a pinch of salt. Using a small, sharp knife split the vanilla bean down the center and scrape out all of the seeds. Add both the seeds and the pod to the other ingredients in the saucepan. Bring it just up to the boil and then immediately turn the heat down to very low and, placing a cover atop the saucepan but leaving it ajar, allow the pudding to simmer, stirring often, for 30 to 35 minutes or until the rice has absorbed almost all of the liquid. The rice should be very soft almost melting in the mouth. It should not be al dente. The pudding should be creamy, neither runny nor dry.

Remove the saucepan from the heat and remove and discard the vanilla bean pod. Stir in the tablespoon of butter and about half of the remaining sugar. Taste and add as much of the remaining sugar until desired sweetness. Spoon into individual serving dishes, glasses or bowls.

Riz au Lait is always best eaten warm but this particular pudding is delicious at room temperature and even stays creamy when chilled (if, for example, there are any leftovers). Riz au Lait can also be served with cooked fruit or jam served atop it to give it a tangy kick.

Jamie Schler lives, eats and writes in France. To read more of her work visit Life's a Feast.

 

Follow Jamie Schler on Twitter: www.twitter.com/lifesafeast

There is a waning generation of women of a certain age and class in France who raised their children the very old-fashioned way and my Mother-in-law is one of them. She bundled her babies, swaddli...
There is a waning generation of women of a certain age and class in France who raised their children the very old-fashioned way and my Mother-in-law is one of them. She bundled her babies, swaddli...
 
 
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02:58 AM on 11/24/2010
In the Philippines (which they got from Mexico I believe), they would add cocoa powder to this for a chocolate rice pudding called champorado.
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Jamie Schler
Writer at Life's a Feast & Huff Post blogger.
11:57 AM on 12/13/2010
Yum! I tried making one once but need to rework the recipe as it came out too chewy. Love it!
11:21 AM on 11/20/2010
This looks delicious. A few years ago I decided that I needed a new healthy breakfast routine, since my usual routine was coffee and a banana, so I started doing something similar with brown rice and vanilla soymilk. I would add raisins or thaw some frozen blueberries. It was great, though I'm sure it would be so much better with real cream and butter.
03:28 AM on 11/20/2010
In Argentina it's very common and it's called "Arroz con leche"
but "French Food" sounds much more classy and impressive, I admit.
dididangerlove
subverting political perversion
05:07 PM on 11/19/2010
Holy cow! This is what my mom made for breakfast when we were kids. I've mentioned this to a lot of people over the years and nobody else ever had it. I didn't know it was an actual dish with a history. Thanks!
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lotusgirl
Turned off the TV and stepped out of the Matrix
11:45 PM on 11/22/2010
my mother told me that they had a dish like this when she was young. you are not alone.
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sabelmouse
my micro bio is emty
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Jamie Schler
Writer at Life's a Feast & Huff Post blogger.
08:21 AM on 11/18/2010
Thanks for this very interesting link. After skimming it I will point out a couple things I see off the top: mine is cooked rather than baked (which seems to create a much creamier dessert) and mine uses no eggs, no yolks. That said, my French husband very adamantly corrected me the other day when I referred to this (that I made) as Rice Pudding. He shook his head and said "This is NOT Rice Pudding, it is Riz au Lait! Not the same thing!" Now thanks to your article maybe I am beginning to understand the difference.
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sabelmouse
my micro bio is emty
01:00 PM on 11/18/2010
“that is interesting. i just thought there are different methods.”
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sabelmouse
my micro bio is emty
10:58 AM on 11/18/2010
that is interesting. i just thought there are different methods.
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antaeus
Marriage Equality Is Here
12:19 AM on 11/18/2010
I made it tonight! We set ourselves on fire with a lamb tagine and lots of ras el hanout and then curled up with your riz au lait. I did use my favorite arborio rice, and it was delicious: the recipe is now in the book. Thanks!
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Jamie Schler
Writer at Life's a Feast & Huff Post blogger.
01:24 AM on 11/18/2010
I am so happy!! Fantastic and thanks so very much for sharing with us!
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beachyg
07:45 PM on 11/17/2010
Once again fantastic writing. Can you believe I have never tried rice pudding? : )
VinoLuciStyle
Creative Culinary
11:41 AM on 11/17/2010
I loved reading your story although admittedly a bit horrified at some of those old notions but it seems all was not lost and certainly not lost in translation is the warming comfort of this food. JP still loving it is a testimony to that, isn't it?

It's funny; my daughter just LOVES rice pudding but I've never warmed to it; maybe it's time to take that journey again, this recipe sounds fabulous.
10:33 AM on 11/17/2010
Just look at how thick and lovely and warming this is! It's a natural for comfort food. And, made with a vanilla bean, the flavor must be fantastic.
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sabelmouse
my micro bio is emty
11:00 AM on 11/17/2010
i remember things like that with, real vanilla, from my childhood.
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Jamie Schler
Writer at Life's a Feast & Huff Post blogger.
08:39 AM on 11/18/2010
Thanks so much Lisa, yes the flavor was fantastic! I was amazed at how absolutely fabulous the whole dessert was. It quickly became a favorite with me and I'll be making it often!
08:43 AM on 11/17/2010
Once again you have knocked me out with your writing Jamie - I love how you set a mood, paint a picture and take us on a journey! Food, writing, stories - we're all connected more than we're disconnected but we must be present enough to see it. Wonderful recipe too!
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Thisbeautifulplanet
omnia vincit amor
04:57 PM on 11/19/2010
You nailed it: eating good food is indeed a journey from the memory to the heart for so many.
Fanned and faved.
08:06 AM on 11/17/2010
Woah, hardcore mum! Rice pudding though, love it. I often use up old rice by cooking it in coconut milk as well, waste not want not and all that...Maybe I'm old-fashioned too ;P
08:00 AM on 11/17/2010
What a story, Jamie! I love how one dish could inspire such memories (and emotions, I'm sure). My mom and I were the ones in our house that loved rice pudding. We'd sit on the couch together with a big steaming bowl and talk for hours or watch a movie together.

Beautiful post!
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Jamie Schler
Writer at Life's a Feast & Huff Post blogger.
08:52 AM on 11/17/2010
What a lovely memory! Thanks so much for sharing this....this is what food is really all about, or should be, isnt' it?
04:25 AM on 11/17/2010
So sounds like my hubby's childhood. This is definitely his top comfort dessert food,it's been a while since I've made it but will give this recipe a try tonight the one that I make is baked and then chilled (cuisine et vins) at the end so this one looks like a great "instant gratification" dessert
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Jamie Schler
Writer at Life's a Feast & Huff Post blogger.
04:57 AM on 11/17/2010
Definitely instant gratification - just a little patience while it cooks and then he can even enjoy it straight out of the pan if he likes! Thanks for joining in the discussion! :-)
12:52 AM on 11/17/2010
you had me at rice...
12:06 AM on 11/17/2010
Actually I just had the Indian version last night with cardamom, almonds and saffron. Simply amazing. An interesting bit of information is that the Buddha broke his austerities with rice pudding. It must have tasted sooo good!!
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mlaiuppa
Pres. Sarcasm Society. Like we need your approval.
12:55 AM on 11/17/2010
Oh, the best rice pudding I ever had was in an Indian restaurant. They added raisins and pistachios. And it was decorated with edible gold.
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JScott
John Galt's last name is McGuffin-Smithee
09:14 AM on 11/17/2010
Hmm that sounds interesting.