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Eco Etiquette: Can Fur Be Green?

Posted: 12/22/10 09:15 AM ET

Send all your eco-inquiries to Jennifer Grayson at eco.etiquette@gmail.com. Questions may be edited for length and clarity.

A lot of my friends are wearing faux fur, but I've heard that it's made from some not-so-eco materials. Is this true? And if that's the case, wouldn't it just be better to wear real fur, since it's a natural material?

-Zoey

I have a confession to make: I own a fur vest. But I feel OK about wearing it, because the fur was sustainably harvested from a lemming mass suicide and processed using GM-free cornstarch. No part of the lemming was wasted: The omega 3-packed wild meat was sold to a hunger relief organization at a fair price, and the bones were turned into a natural phosphate fertilizer. My purchase also supported native trappers who rely on this income for their livelihood.

The only thing is, when I wear the vest I get a lot of dirty looks, so I'm always sure to have this story well rehearsed in order to avoid further scrutiny. I don't deserve to get splashed with a can of red paint.

I jest, of course. (And those in the know can slap me on the wrist for perpetuating the lemming suicide myth.) But I spun this silly story to illustrate just how complicated navigating the fur marketplace has become.

There's faux fur. Vegan fur made from organic cotton. An "eco" fur made from the brushtail possums destroying New Zealand's forests. The latest craze is nutria, an invasive Louisiana rodent whose heralded-as-humane hide has graced the runways of J. Mendel and Oscar de la Renta.

Kind of makes you long for the days when the issue of wearing fur was as black and white as Cruella de Vil's coiffure, no?

If you're hoping to have Santa slip a sustainable sable under the tree for you this year, however, you may find the following disappointing:

First, nearly 85 percent of furs today come from farm-raised animals. That may sound like a laudable alternative to trapping animals (including endangered ones) in the wild. But these animals are often subject to the same harsh conditions (i.e., crowding and confinement) that exist in concentrated animal feeding operations, aka factory farms.

Second, while the animal waste from these fur farms can be a source of organic fertilizer, it can also pollute local groundwater if it's not carefully managed. So can the chemicals used to treat the skins, which include the highly carcinogenic formaldehyde, chromium, and naphthalene.

These chemicals prevent the fur from rotting. They also compromise its biodegradability. That pretty much kills the "natural" argument, doesn't it?

The obvious alternative, ostensibly, should be faux fur. It seems to be everywhere these days, inserting a bit of would-be green luxury into our scrimp-and-save times. Even PETA seems OK with it, pushing the pseudo-pelts on its website.

The truth, though, is that while fake fur may be animal-friendly, it is certainly not earth-friendly, since it's made from petroleum-based, non-biodegradable, energy-intensive materials like nylon and polyester. (I would argue, too, that it isn't even animal-friendly, since hurting the planet doesn't exactly encourage animal survival.)

Then there's the unfortunate situation, as witnessed in the film Skin Trade, that fur being labeled as faux may, in fact, be Fluffy and Fido.

So here's where I insert the stock greenie line that no fur is good fur, that even an ethical fur sends the wrong message, blah blah blah. Except I can't. I need to say something else first.

In my mind, wearing real fur is no greater an eco-sin than, say, eating a fast food cheeseburger. Which is to say that eating a fast food cheeseburger is, in fact, an eco-sin, but you certainly don't see people being splashed with red paint as they walk into a McDonald's (though maybe they should).

So my new rule is this: I'm not saying it's OK to wear fur, but don't give people the stink-eye for wearing fur if you're still eating factory-farmed meat. Or driving a car with leather seats. Or wearing Uggs.

I'll also add that if you are native American or live above 60 degrees north latitude, you can probably justify the full-length fox. If you're everyone else, but life won't be complete without that touch of mink, at least opt for vintage or a refurbished family heirloom. Just be prepared to do some explaining.

 

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Send all your eco-inquiries to Jennifer Grayson at eco.etiquette@gmail.com. Questions may be edited for length and clarity. A lot of my friends are wearing faux fur, but I've heard that it's made fro...
Send all your eco-inquiries to Jennifer Grayson at eco.etiquette@gmail.com. Questions may be edited for length and clarity. A lot of my friends are wearing faux fur, but I've heard that it's made fro...
 
 
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
SweetJudith
07:11 PM on 12/28/2010
I've been vegan for close to 20 years, I use no fur, no leather, nothing to do with animals. I wore leather shoes until Stella McCartney introduced the non leather shoes and belts. I buy all of my hand bags from Susan Nichole and others that have vegan handbags. The activists and others that have just found their way have quite a distance to go, but they are trying, at first I wanted nothing to do with any of them because they weren't like me, how ignorant I was, these activist are working hard to become free of any animal products, they are wonderful and I applaud each and everyone of them. You just can't do this overnight, but by God their hearts are in the right place and this is where you're having a difficult time understanding. Have you watched any video's of how these animals are stripped of their skin? Have you ever heard of Shannon Keith, she's an amazing attorney who has now dedicated her life to all animals but the fur trade is what she's really all about. She has two movies to her credit, the Skin Trade and Behind the Mask. Uncaged Films. The openings were in good old Hollywood, right up the coast from our home. Many people came, people are learning the horror's that these animals go through, all sentient beings...We were suppose to be their guardians, we have failed miserably...
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maribelles
have opinion? win fans, lose fans
06:26 PM on 12/28/2010
I wonder how the word "harvested" ever came into use when it comes to killing wild animals for profit, sport, or just plain "fun". If we go back to really "green " living- hunting and trapping all of our own food, tanning hides, living in tipis and longhouses, using wood to heat, using animals alone as transportation, making walls of stone, growing corn and beans, weaving cloth, drying fruit- then and only then is it potentially ok to use fur.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Gavin
Ecologist
09:39 PM on 12/28/2010
Wildlife is a resource, and the consumptive use of a resource is a harvest.
10:47 AM on 12/28/2010
I remember watching Designing Women as a kid and Delta Burke's character was modeling a fur, and some crazed banshee came up to her and said "Do you know FIFTY animals died to make that coat!!!" and Delta said "wanna be fifty one..."
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Gavin
Ecologist
01:00 AM on 12/27/2010
I used to work as a field and lab tech working on passive treatment of acid mine drainage. One of our treatment sites was invaded by beavers, who changed the way the water flowed through the system with their dams and were preventing it from functioning properly. Part of my duty was to buy a PA furtaker's license, take out some conibears, and trap beavers. Their furs were sold through the same fur buyers and auction system as all the other beavers trapped in PA that year.

I've got to tell you, if you buy a fur from animals harvested from the wild in North America rather than farm-raised fur, the animals were harvested in as quick and humane a fashion as the trappers/hunters could manage, and in accordance with pretty strict game laws based on population ecology. Back in the bad old days, before trapping was regulated, it was different, but now it's quite well policed and limited. It's unfortunate that farmed fur is as prevalent as it is, because it's hard to be more sustainable than contemporary wild fur.
01:36 AM on 12/28/2010
How can wild fur be sustainable? A lot of species dissapeared or are endangered thanks to fur trapping.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Gavin
Ecologist
01:47 AM on 12/28/2010
Bobcat, gray wolves, coyotes, red and grey foxes, wild mink, skunk, opossum, beaver, muskrat, weasels, raccoon, fisher, and otter can and are harvested in various parts of North America in a sustainable fashion. They are plentiful, they reproduce quickly, their populations are monitored, and seasons and harvest limits are in place.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
April Pells
08:01 PM on 12/25/2010
I refuse to explain whatever I may wear. It is not anyone else's business. Also, why is it ok for Native Americans?
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Jennifer Grayson
HuffPost's Miss Eco Etiquette. Editor, The Red, Wh
02:19 AM on 12/26/2010
Hi, April. See my response to pinkeyelemonade, below.
01:37 AM on 12/28/2010
It's ok for native americans because it's their right. Although I don't agree. It's like why are they allowed to have casinos?
01:35 AM on 12/29/2010
Native American peoples are sovereign nations according to both international law and the constitution of the United States. That is why courts tend to rule in their favor where casinos are concerned. Of course, this respect for native sovereignty is a recent development.
Genders
Love, Tolerance, Enlightenment
03:33 PM on 12/25/2010
With a responsible citizenry and good oversight and regulation, using the furs of animals, could be moral and humane. But with our anything for a buck world, it is too much temptation to start massive inhumane wasteful factory farming and cruel but quick methods. I would find it hard to proudly show off furs, knowing I am encouraging such cruelty and environmental damage. But isn't that now true of almost anything we use? Meat, leather, electronics, energy, cars, all suffer the same moral failings. Perhaps it is the pride and glorification of fur fashion that makes it so insufferable.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Jennifer Grayson
HuffPost's Miss Eco Etiquette. Editor, The Red, Wh
02:27 AM on 12/26/2010
Maybe that's why fur, in particular, provokes such outrage: You are literally wearing your disregard for other living creatures on your sleeve. For other clothing/products, the cruelty isn't as readily visible. Is wearing fur worse, for instance, than sending our discarded electronics to third-world countries for children to dismantle (and die as a result)?

http://news.discovery.com/tech/indias-poor-risk-slow-death-recycling-e-waste.html
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
john649
02:30 PM on 12/27/2010
Is wearing fur worse, for instance, than sending our discarded electronic­s to third-worl­d countries for children to dismantle (and die as a result)?

Its not worse but it doesn't justify it either.
09:36 PM on 12/24/2010
Soliel is confusing shearing with mulesing. For the record, mulesing is a procedure done to young Merino lambs in Australia to prevent flystrike. Before mulesing was developed, flystrike killed some three million sheep every year in Australia. The Australian Veterinarian Association recommends the continuation of this practice until a more humane means of controlling flystrike can be found.
01:27 PM on 12/24/2010
Vickster...I know people like yourself who profit from exploiting animals like to deny things. I understand that but sheep do suffer under shearing:

http://www.peta2.com/takecharge/t_factsheet_wool.asp

And please don't call it "propaganda". When you have proof it is the facts. NOT propaganda.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
pinkeyelemonade
Had Enough? Vote Green Party.
07:35 AM on 12/24/2010
As a person doing her best to maintain a yogic diet, I choose the faux. But I notice that environmentalists and animal rights enthusiasts are often stuck between a rock and a hardplace.

Should I buy the real skin, what was once attached to real, living creature to avoid what is often a n environmentally harmful synthetic....or should I go for the synthetic to avoid wearing the skin of the creature? And that conundrum is a little biased, if we have the eco-faux, then I'm grateful, but any faux skins I've been able to stick to are the more environmentally risky quality, mainly because it's most affordable.

But I will always do my best to choose the synthetic. I guess sometimes the catch-22s are too difficult to avoid. I do have some leather and wool garments, though, but they were gifts and contain sentimental value. I think what matters most is the effort.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Jennifer Grayson
HuffPost's Miss Eco Etiquette. Editor, The Red, Wh
02:11 AM on 12/26/2010
It is a conundrum, in that even supposedly "natural" fabrics like cotton and bamboo can be incredibly destructive to the environment. Cotton, for instance, accounts for 25 percent of all pesticides in the US:

http://healthychild.org/blog/comments/think_eco-fashion_means_birkenstocks_think_again/

That kind of pesticide use isn't exactly helping the animals. Let's face it: Most of us are not wearing only organic cotton.
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maslin
At 6 bn km, it's mostly small stuff.
10:21 PM on 12/23/2010
Hi Jennifer,

This is disappointing to me:

'I'll also add that if you are native American or live above 60 degrees north latitude,'

I agree that people in cold climates have an excellent argument for wearing fur. It's a phenomenal insulator.

Is there some reason that 'native American' people should get a pass WRT fur, but hunters, tanners, and trappers of other races shouldn't?

I don't understand the argument.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Jennifer Grayson
HuffPost's Miss Eco Etiquette. Editor, The Red, Wh
02:19 AM on 12/26/2010
Let me clarify: Fur has long been a means of subsistence for many indigenous cultures -- including Native Americans, who traditionally left no part of the animal to waste. That being said, most Native Americans today no longer live that way of life.

If you are living a subsistence lifestyle -- be it trapper, hunter/gatherer, etc. -- I, personally, am not ethically opposed to using fur if it is a physical necessity. Others here, I'm sure, will disagree.
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maslin
At 6 bn km, it's mostly small stuff.
11:06 AM on 12/27/2010
Thanks for the clarification.

This opens up another can of worms, though. What do you do with the skins and other non-food parts of an animal killed in a hunt (eg brains, which can be used in tanning)?
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
jimboy71
Hen Diapheron Heautoi
05:16 PM on 12/23/2010
Fur is wonderfully warm. One should always wear it for practical, not fashion reasons. It is also a major source of income for Native communities in the North.
12:20 PM on 12/23/2010
Killing an animal for the purpose of stripping the hide from its back in order to sell it to the highest fashion industry bidder is a far, far cry from killing an animal to put food on the table.

Fur cuffs and collars on coats is an entirely unnecessary endeavor today, especially when current methods for harvesting hides allows for barbaric and inhumane traps and methods of killing the animal — like smashing its head with a pipe or standing on its throat or chest.
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Toddynho
I needs proof read more!
05:16 PM on 12/23/2010
Bingo... killing for vanity is barbaric. Plain and simple.
12:27 AM on 12/24/2010
Interesting; I have this image of the barbarians killing for the fur out of necessity while civilised people harvested the furs for fashion.
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Toddynho
I needs proof read more!
05:27 AM on 12/24/2010
Was it the word "vanity" that tripped you up, or the general context of the point?
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bayonet division
Choose this day whom you will serve.
08:32 PM on 12/23/2010
That money put food on our table, and on many other tables.
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bayonet division
Choose this day whom you will serve.
10:14 AM on 12/23/2010
Could anything possibly be more green than fur? I think not. 100 % natural, biodegradable, petroleum-free, naturally warmer, more resistant to freezing and moisture, and dang it, it just happens to be beautiful!

As a young boy growing up in the hills of Missouri, I ran a trap line for income. At that time, the pelt from a large raccoon would fetch around forty dollars. We also ran "coons" with hounds. As you might imagine, ten or twenty pelts a week was pretty good income for a poor farm boy back then. About the same time that I left home, the Europeans banned import of our fur owing to the trapping issue. It wasn't long before large numbers of racoons were encountered in atypical conditions, diseased and starving in many instances, owing to population explosions that facilitated remarkable spread of disease amongst their populations, notably distemper and rabies. None of the animals we hunted or trapped ever suffered the horribly slow and lingering death these animals did.
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Toddynho
I needs proof read more!
05:08 PM on 12/23/2010
It's not about being GREEN, and that's where this author screws up from the state. Although the ANIMAL RIGHTS movement and the GREEN MOVEMENT are siblings, they are still individuals with a different set of canons and tenets each. It's not about animals being easily recyclable, it's about giving them a degree of dignity and some rights.
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bayonet division
Choose this day whom you will serve.
08:35 PM on 12/23/2010
The right not to die slowly from disease and starvation? I'm all for that one. I do applaud your compassion.
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PatA
Juan Martinez! Rock Star!
12:04 AM on 12/26/2010
Oh, good, God. I grew up in the mountains in Oklahoma and we certainly NEVEr saw dead raccoons who had starved. We didn't even see dead raccoons lying around. You'll have to come up with something better than that story.
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bayonet division
Choose this day whom you will serve.
12:38 AM on 12/26/2010
Help me to understand what you're getting at, PatA. Are you saying that you didn't experience the same thing that another person experienced, therefore, that experience never existed?

Merry Christmas!
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Gavin
Ecologist
01:04 AM on 12/27/2010
Don't know about Oklahoma, but in Delaware and Pennsylvania you find dead ones lying around that died of rabies, which wouldn't be at epidemic levels if they weren't grossly overpopulated.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Ralph Perman
Unapologetic Progressive Liberal
11:34 PM on 12/22/2010
I'll admit up front I'm not vegan, but I do care about animal rights and how they are cared for. But have you ever seen a Mink? What a Mean nasty critter! Plus they are tiny( probably accounts for the attitude) . They are dinner for every carnivore out there. After that I can almost defend the use of their fur for clothing, They are warm, comfortable, and natural. If they are farm raised they wont be prey and maybe they can have a longer life. (Plus I get great Gloves and no frost bite.)
12:20 AM on 12/23/2010
Disagree. Just because we deem a creature to be "nasty" doesn't justify cruelly killing them. These animals are gassed, poisoned, and anally electrocuted so as not to damage their pelts. Fur is a vanity item. There are alternatives.
11:21 AM on 12/23/2010
Totally agree. It doesn't matter how "cute" any animal is in our eyes or not, it's still wrong to take their lives.

Ralph...how cute are you? Is your life less worthwhile because you may not be "cute" 'anymore? If a person is not attractive does that mean it's OK to take their life or their life is less worthwhile?

It's not your call. All animals are our co-inhabitants. ALL of them.
11:23 AM on 12/23/2010
Ralph...have you seen fur farms? They are the most disgusting, grosteque places on earth. Fur bearing animals kept in cages in the cold. Just because they are farmed does not make it OK. In fact it makes it worse. It's all bad, that is the truth. It's all ugly.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Ralph Perman
Unapologetic Progressive Liberal
01:35 PM on 12/23/2010
Yes I have. Have you ever seen a fox or wolf rip one of them limb from limb? If you have ever had to live and work in the upper latitudes you may understand my side of the opinion. If fur is used for decoration, I'm against it. But the insulation afforded by real fur could be the difference of 10 fingers or 8. (Have you ever seen frost bite amputation?) These little furry critters have literally, not figuratively saved mankind. Without them we would have died off centuries ago when we scummed to the environment.
02:22 PM on 12/23/2010
I've been to fur farms, have you Soleil? Or are you just rehashing the same crap PETA feeds us. Minks are kept in cages outside because that is what is best for THEM. They are in pairs, as research has proven they are happier when in twos. The MAIN goal of a fur farmers is to keep his animals happy and stress-free, that is the only way to guarantee a good pelt AND it follows the fur farming laws put in place in North American and Europe. A fur farm is not the most disgusting, grosteque places on earth, go and visit one before you decide whether it is grotesque or not.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
seajewel
09:33 PM on 12/22/2010
As a vegan I'm very much aware of my impact and am not disillusioned by the fact that even a piece of wood has caused some animal death. I think this whole system we have using animals selfishly behind closed doors, for whatever reason, needs to stop and stop immediately. With 10 billion sentient beings suffering lonely, painful, horrific lives each year in America alone people need to take a stand in a BIG way and the sooner the better.

For me I realize that it is essentially impossible to be 100% vegan but I say that I am a vegan with conviction to make a statement about what my priorities are in this life and they do not include using animals as slaves to make my life better.

I see nothing wrong ethically with eating and wearing roadkill but I would not want to be sending that message to anyone that I may be possibly okay with fur so I respectfully decline to use eco-fur as I think everyone should as long as an industry exists to profit from animals as slaves.

Gene Bauer had a fantastic idea of having mandatory video surveillance on all farm animals. I urge you to sign it and help put an end to animals suffering in isolation.
http://animals.change.org/blog/view/time_for_video_cameras_in_slaughterhouses
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09:19 AM on 12/23/2010
Wool does NOT cause animal death. Have you never heard of shearing? The wool is sheared and the animal (sheep, alpaca, whatever) goes about its way and grows another coat to be sheared in another season.
11:22 AM on 12/23/2010
Um there are huge problems with shearing. Do some research. What happens during shearing is that often big chunks of skin are taken off at the same time. Yes, you read that right. Down to the flesh. It's very very painful and that horrible injury not only causes suffering but often death because it's so intense. It's not benign by any means.
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seajewel
12:19 PM on 12/24/2010
Oh wow you really need to educate yourself on the conditions and brutal deaths that occur every day on shearing farms. Times have changed and it's mass produced, poor breeding that causes serious complications and infections leading to death without medical attention etc. the deaths and problems too numerous to list.

http://www.all-creatures.org/articles/ar-whatswrongwool.html

http://www.all-creatures.org/articles/ar-whatswrongwool.html

http://www.freewebs.com/cruelty-free/apps/videos/videos/show/1756470-what-s-wrong-with-wool-
02:25 PM on 12/23/2010
Sea Jewel, nice to her from someone who has an opinion but who hasn't decided to try and force it on others. I have ben to a fur farm in North America, and the conditions are not bad at all, I'd suggest they video battery chicken farms before they both with fur (and by the way, 7-8 million animals are killed in North America for fur a year, while 12 billion animals are killed for food.)

My reason for supporting an loving fur is that is it biodegradable, local, sustainable, and long-lasting. You might choose to keep yourself warm in a fleece, but fleece is made from petrochemicals and synthetics that are extremely harmful to the environment and not sustainable or biodegradable. How many animals did the Gulf of Mexico oil spill kill? Just something to consider.
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seajewel
12:29 PM on 12/24/2010
Like I said I am not disillusioned by the fact that even a piece of wood has caused some animals life. Also it's just under 10 billion a year...9.4 I believe farm animals a year.

So you support and love fur even though those animals are horrifically abused specifically for that purpose...very odd statement considering this is what happens for these animals on a daily basis. http://skintradethemovie.com/

Personally I don't know what you saw on that fur farm, but I would not allow my dogs to be treated that way, I am an animal behaviorist and you can say you have been to one farm, but their are so many others that are horrific conditions for these animals that are caged and lonely without medical care chewing each others legs off and having their skins ripped off alive. The psychological implications are too much. But I'm sure since you seem to know so much you already knew this.

We can stop using fur to make a statement, it's pretty much all we can do for now and write letters and tell others. But unless you live in a cave you pretty much have to accept that everything we do these days is having impact but that is no excuse for tolerating animal slavery done on purpose or for profit. I recommend those surveillance cameras be installed in every business that uses animals for free labor. It's the least that can be done.
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Jennifer Grayson
HuffPost's Miss Eco Etiquette. Editor, The Red, Wh
02:33 AM on 12/26/2010
Excellent point about the oil spill! All the more reason not to wear petroleum-based faux fur.