At Valbella, which opened in 1992, the parking lot is still full most nights of the week with an inordinate number of Maseratis and Mercedes-Benzes, and the extraordinary 1,400-label, 15,000-bottle wine cellar (below) is still the site of many private dinners season after season. There are also two younger branches of Valbella in Manhattan, completely different in look, one in the Meat Packing District and the other in midtown.
Owners David Ghatanfard and Valerie Malfetano have succeeded at all three largely by changing very little, least of all the unquestioned quality of the meats and seafood. They also maintain a crew of professionals who get to treat their often demanding clientele as honored guests: favorite cocktails and wines are remembered, preferences in seating, duration of meals, all are known to general manager Nick Zherka and conveyed to his waitstaff. If there is a fault in their manner, it is only in their recitation of so many specials each night that no one could possibly remember most by the time the spiel is over, but it's all part of the shtick.
More often than not when I go to Valbella I order a tower of iced shellfish, which is mounted high with whatever you prefer--lobster, crab, mussels, oysters, clams, shrimp, along with various dipping sauces. Alternatives I'd consider would be the fried calamari ($25), or the grilled eggplant with fresh mozzarella, tomato and roasted pepper vinaigrette ($21).
Pastas are all made in house, and a whole portion can easily be split for two as an appetizer. The pappardelle Bolognese ($32. for a main course) in a ruddy veal ragù takes on the added luxury of cream-rich burrata, while linguine teems with abundant lobster, crabmeat and shrimp in a chile-spiked fra diavolo sauce ($42).
Because of the impeccable quality of the meats, it's highly recommended you go for the superb dry-aged shell steak in a demi-glace tinged with rosemary served with sautéed baby spinach, roasted potatoes and seasonal vegetables ($50). You will want to gnaw right down to the bone of the juicy, well-fatted baby rack of lamb, which comes with mashed potatoes ($50). And, of course, the gloriously flavorful veal chop ($55) is a double cut. The fish on the menu is not described beyond letting you know it's all dependent on what species the chef bought in the market that morning. All the main courses come with seasonal vegetables, which is fine, except that some variety, dish by dish, would be even better.
Desserts are not Valbella's strong point, but, after a meal so grand, you may not want to do more than share a good piece of cheesecake or some fresh fruit with whipped cream. Still, ordering a perfectly rendered souffle is always a good idea.
People who live in lower Connecticut or Westchester, Putnam or Duchess counties can readily drive over to Riverside for a fine night out, and those who already enjoy the two Valbellas in Manhattan, whose menus are very similar, will be very happy to find the same quality of food and service in a beautiful suburban setting about an hour's drive north.
Valbella is open for lunch Mon.-Fri., for dinner Mon.-Sat.
VALBELLA
1300 Putnam Avenue
Riverside, CT
203-637-1155
www.valbella.com
http://www.valbellarestaurants.com