New York has always been entangled in a wild love affair with Italian food. From the culinary delights of Little Italy to the family-style service of Carmines to the masterful refinement of Felidia, Cipriani and Sant Ambroeus, our romance with Italian food centers on its expansive range of flavors, regions, and cooking styles. This fall a new wave of Italian eateries will open all over the city begging the question, is there room in our hearts for all of them?
As a lover of all things food, one would think that I've tried everything. Don't get me wrong, I've tasted things most people would never dream of eating (breaded veal brains with butter and capers, anyone?), but in the last few months I have found myself exploring some of the city's most sought-after Italian restaurants -- Maialino, Quinto Quarto, Laconda Verde and Caccio e Pepe to name a few -- in pursuit of the best Italian delicacies. When I discovered the traditional dish caccio e pepe this summer I instantly understood why a restaurant would name itself after it. I was amazed that such a simple, three-ingredient dish could be so sinfully rich and decadently satisfying. Even the presentation was exhilarating -- our waiter mixed the pasta and the oily and pungent caccio cheese in a hollowed out wheel of caccio right at our table! I left dinner that night feeling as if I had fallen in love with pasta and cheese all over again. Maybe that's what it is about Italian food that keeps us craving it again and again... the over-the-top touches that truly make the most simplistic dishes memorable!
When most people think of Italian food, tomato sauce and meatballs come to mind first, but talk to any New Yorker and you'll discover how well versed we've become. Just as the culinary styles and flavors vary drastically from region to region in Italy, the restaurants in Manhattan are equally as different and unique even when they come from the same chef or owners. When Scott Conant opened Faustina in the Cooper Square Hotel, critics raved about the chef's new Italian journey and noted many of the differences between his newest restaurant and his first three-star venue, Scarpetta. Patrons flocked to Scarpetta for the incredible pastas -- even the simple spaghetti with tomato and basil (one of my favorites!) is out of this world. At Faustina diners can expect a completely different dining experience with a more causal and rustic menu featuring a variety of shared plate options. Could simple diversity, an abundance of fresh ingredients and diverse cooking techniques be the Italian hook? It is also compelling to see how Italian cuisine has evolved over the years; Italian menus are not just limited to fried calamari and eggplant parmigiana, but rather eagerly tempt diners with refined and sometimes elaborate ingredients such as pig trotters, rabbit, tripe and wild boar. When one truly thinks about it, Italian cuisine is so varied, and can be so simple, it is probably one of the only cuisines people can eat every day and not be bored. True Italian cuisine is completely ingredient driven and can be extremely light, void of heavy sauces in many regions, and also complete, without pasta or risotto. Who can say no to simply charred branzino served with lemon and olive oil accompanied by some broccoli rabe with confit garlic or some beautifully stuffed zucchini blossoms followed by a grilled veal chop with root vegetables or plump asparagus? And yes, that is Italian!
This fall a very long list of new Italian eateries from a wide range of chefs that will open across the city. Michael White is scheduled to open three new restaurants including Ai Fiori at the exquisite Setai Fifth Avenue in November and Osteria Morini on Lafayette Street. And how can we forget Mario Batali's Eataly? This "Italian mega-market concept" features: mini eateries, retail areas for the purchase of fresh ingredients including mozzarella, meats and fish, a gelateria, a wine shop and a rotisserie stand. The Meatpacking District will be home to Villa Pacri, a five-story Italian villa featuring a ground floor cafe, now open, called La Gazzetta and a formal dining room on the second floor opening later this month. The highly anticipated Gansevoort Park Avenue Hotel will also be offering up Italian at Asellina with Sardinian-born chef Marco Porceddu at the helm. And rounding out the list is Ciano where 3-star Chef Shea Gallante is opening a market driven casual ristorante in the former Beppe location.
If this all sounds like an abondanza of Italian eateries you will surely understand my enthusiasm. I guarantee that while all are labeled Italian by definition, each will offer a perfectly unique dining experience at the hands of these incredible culinary talents. Get on your treadmills, buy a jump rope or start running round the reservoir, this fall is going to be all about eating -- Italian style. I'm ready as always and look forward to sharing my delectable experiences soon. Ciao tuti.