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Kathy Freston

Kathy Freston

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Vegan Food in Restaurants: The Changing Tide of Food Preferences (Listen Up, Restaurants!)

Posted: 04/29/11 08:39 AM ET

First off, let me tell you that I'm a friendly vegan! I'm not judgmental, and I truly believe that it's not my business to tell anyone what they should or shouldn't eat. I grew up in the South, greatly enjoying chicken-fried steak and barbecued ribs, and every kind of cheesy thing I could get my hands on. I loved meat; never thought about it. Until I thought about it. After a few years of transitioning, I've been vegan for seven years. And it seems I'm not alone.

I went out to dinner last night with friends and came home fairly hungry. If you don't count the bread I tried not to eat too much of and the olives from my martini, or the little side dish of steamed vegetables, there wasn't much I could call a meal. I scanned the menu for anything that I could eat, but all I saw was lobster, lamb, fish, steak, chicken, veal, pork, and pastas that had any combination of the aforementioned meats with cheese or cream. Nothing for me but the dreaded Grilled Vegetable Plate.

I would SO love a hearty dish with a center of the plate protein, with some TLC from the chef -- i.e. sauces and garnishes -- to make it just as fulfilling as the meat and dairy dishes. I would pay good money for it! And I know a lot of other people would too -- and not just vegan people.

Eating vegan(ish) or vegetarian is mainstream now, and growing ever more so. Oprah, Ellen and Martha each devoted shows to eating vegan. "Good Morning America," "Extra" and "Dr. Oz" have also dedicated segments to the growing popularity of eating less meat and more plant-based food, and you will find in just about every major magazine or newspaper, there are features about the ever increasing vegan trend. Natalie Portman, Tobey McGuire, Ellen DeGeneres, Portia de Rossi, Mike Tyson, Bill Clinton, Larry Page, Biz Stone, Ricky Williams and Tony Gonzales are all vegan (or veganish!); these folks are the trendsetters -- actors, athletes, business and thought leaders.

I realize that vegan is not how the majority of people eat, and restaurants are in the business of giving their customers what they want, but the trend is quite assuredly moving toward reducing and replacing meat. In fact, I've noticed that when I can finagle something interesting from the chef (assuming the waiter bothers to approach him with the request) that is both hearty and healthy, nine out of ten times most of the people at the table will say, "I'll have what she's having."

Whether it's because someone wants a break from animal protein three meals a day every day, or they are concerned with their health or weight, or they want to be conscious eaters for the environment, a vegan option is extremely appealing when presented well.

The problem is, restaurants are generally not presenting them well. A plate of vegetables situated next to a baked potato is okay in a pinch, but I wouldn't want to pay a lot for it, nor would I return to that restaurant for it. I would choose another place that everyone would be happy, where my husband could get fish and I could get something plant-based (and not just pasta with tomato sauce ... too many carbs, and boring).

A meal that looks like what everyone else is enjoying would be so, so gratifying and appreciated! And there are so many ways to make a meal with a vegetarian protein using Gardein (looks and tastes like different meats, high protein, low fat and is available through distributors like Sysco and US Foods ), seitan (wheat protein ... made into cutlets or strips), lentils, beans, tofu, chickpeas, tempeh or other high-protein meat alternatives. And on a business note, the profit margin is greater as plant-based protein is cheaper than animal protein, and is how many other cultures get protein.

Check out these stunning statistics on the where the food trend is going:

Number of Vegetarians/Vegans and Trends in Vegetarian/Vegan Eating

- In a 2010 study from marketing firm Context Marketing that included 600 respondents, they found that 21 percent said "vegetarian" is important or very important to them. Fourteen percent said "vegan" is important or very important to them.
- The average American ate 14 pounds less meat (including poultry) per year in 2009 (208 pounds per person) than in 2006 (222 pounds per person).
- In feedback surveys among college students at campuses that Bon Appétit Management Co. (which manages more than 4,000 corporate, college and university accounts)
oversees, in 2005-2006 an average of 8 percent said that they were vegetarian. The 2009-2010 survey, however, had very different results: 12 percent identified themselves as vegetarian.

Vegetarian/Vegan Trends in Dining Out

- According to a January 2011 USA Today article on marketing trends for 2011, 47 percent of Americans are trying to reduce their meat consumption.
- A 2009 issue of Nation's Restaurant News suggested adding vegetarian/vegan options to the menu as one of its top strategies for improving business. The publication noted that vegetarian food is generally less expensive for restaurants to procure, and mentioned the "veto vote," the tendency for families with one or more vegetarians to bypass any restaurant that serves no meat-free fare.

Let me just leave you with this: I often dine out in Santa Barbara, and my favorite restaurant is Lucky's Steakhouse. They make a mean martini and have a fantastic wine list, and the ambiance is festive and fun. They now feature a tofu dish, right alongside the steak, chicken and fish on the menu. A few friends and I had requested something other than the dreaded Grilled Vegetable Plate for so long, they finally relented. Not happily, at first, but they did it. They took one of their fish dishes and simply swapped out the fish for tofu, grilled it over braised spinach and a sweet miso sauce.

I usually start with a chopped salad of three kinds of lettuce, chickpeas, onions and avocado. We get a side of sweet potato fries to share. I asked the manager how the dish was doing, and he said, "I'm shocked, but it's flying out the door!" His customers are not vegan. Not even vegetarian or pescetarian. But everyone these days, it seems, wants to lighten up on meat a bit. And so they come to the steakhouse for the ambience and a good drink, and they enjoy a hearty protein-centered, plant-based meal, and everyone wins! The other restaurants, we simply don't consider anymore because we want everyone -- veg or carnivore -- to be happy!

Here's a little starter guide:

- Instead of milk or cream, use almond, soy or cashew cream
- Instead of butter, use Earth Balance (you would not know the difference)
- Instead of chicken broth, use vegetable broth
- Instead of chicken, use Gardein, seitan or tofu
- Instead of ground beef, use Smart Ground meatless crumbles or lentils
- Instead of cheese, use Daiya or Teese non-dairy cheese

 
 
 
First off, let me tell you that I'm a friendly vegan! I'm not judgmental, and I truly believe that it's not my business to tell anyone what they should or shouldn't eat. I grew up in the South, grea...
First off, let me tell you that I'm a friendly vegan! I'm not judgmental, and I truly believe that it's not my business to tell anyone what they should or shouldn't eat. I grew up in the South, grea...
 
 
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Fnordpocalypse
THEY LIVE - WE SLEEP
01:56 PM on 05/10/2011
I'm glad I live in LA. While I'm not vegan or vegitarian, I do frequent a local all vegan restraunt, mostly because I like good food that is healthy.
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Matt Mihaly
08:08 PM on 05/09/2011
In a natural environment, man would be eating almost nothing but meat (including fish) and uncultivated plant products. We have incisors for a reason. There are certainly environmental factors to be concerned about with regards to the production of meat, but eating meat, and a lot of it, is what our bodies expect.
06:19 PM on 05/06/2011
It must be very difficult for these vegan-types to travel.
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ABACADABRA RABBIT
06:18 AM on 05/09/2011
I dated a couple vegans. I dreaded going out after a while. They always had to ask 20 questions before ordering. Good grief.
10:10 AM on 05/06/2011
Kathy, come visit us in lovely Portland, Maine this summer. This foodie town has always had a fondness for vegetarians, and now even more restaurants are adding vegan dishes. I recently wrote about this trend here: http://www.pressherald.com/life/foodanddining/vegan-food-goes-mainstream-in-portland_2011-04-06.html
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10:27 PM on 05/04/2011
I don't mind vegans if they can cook, but if they just by Amy's or Garden burgers and try to hold the dietary high ground, they annoy me.
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thrugreeneyez
06:58 PM on 05/04/2011
Kathy, I think you're great but I encourage you to rethink frequenting restaurants that serve veal, which has to be one of the meanest, cruelest forms of meat. My husband and I used to enjoy going to our local Italian restaurant because they had a few vegan dishes until we thought about the veal being served there. We no longer go to any restaurants that serve veal. Torturing baby animals?! Not for me, there are so many other alternative restaurants that leave veal off of the menu that I'd rather support.
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jumbotron16
a slight improvement over jumbotron15
12:20 AM on 05/05/2011
So torturing a baby cow is worse than torturing an adult pig? I don't really get that. Is it because babies are cuter?
02:10 AM on 06/06/2011
"So torturing a baby cow is worse than torturing an adult pig? I don't really get that. Is it because babies are cuter? "

Any more than killing hundreds of insects, rodents, game animals, birds, ETC through the pesticides, shooting, trapping, threshing ETC necessary to raise, harvest and transport crops vis-a-vis killing a singular animal for use of it's organic material?
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
12:32 AM on 05/06/2011
So called "red veal" or "vitellino" isn't raised by confining the animals to "hutches." If that's what they serve, it's no worse than most beef, and better than most conventionally produced pork
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Matt Mihaly
08:09 PM on 05/09/2011
That isn't veal. I get angry whenever someone tries to serve me that crap and claims it's veal. It's young beef, not veal.
11:53 AM on 05/04/2011
I'm tired of hearing my vegetarian and vegan friends complain when the vegetarian restaurants they haven't been patronizing close down. Vegans and vegetarians need to spend our vegetarian money in vegetarian restaurants, to support them financially and also because omnivore places aren't necessarily careful enough about every ingredient. In an LA restaurant the other week, even after a server established, because my host asked, that the "veggie" chili had chicken stock, the server was still calling it "the vegetarian chili".
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jumbotron16
a slight improvement over jumbotron15
05:05 PM on 05/11/2011
I find vegans and vegetarians to be very patronizing! :)
05:47 PM on 05/12/2011
Re: "a slight improvement over jumbotron15" -

How do you add a byline to your screen name? I can't figure it out.

Thanks - Mark
09:47 AM on 05/12/2011
I'm no longer vegetarian myself, but, as a former English teacher, I am a stickler for correct terminology. Cows and chickens are not "vegetables", and it ticks me off when restaurant staff refer to a meat-broth-based soup, stew, or chili as "vegetarian" (presumably to sell a product to someone who otherwise wouldn't buy it, which is false advertising - or maybe it's just ignorance).

One time this guy at the Chinese restaurant assured me that the tofu-vegetable soup was "vegetarian", because it was just made with chicken broth; there was no actual chicken flesh in it. Yeah, right, I'm sure the chicken just took a bath in the water, then went along its merry little way.
10:08 AM on 05/12/2011
Recently I was at a restaurant with a relative who has willingly cooked for me for many years, and she offered me the rest of her dish, "You can eat it, I took the meat out". So now I'm wondering what I was eating all these years.
12:40 PM on 05/12/2011
I think it's ignorance. I was recently looking at this, http://www.vrg.org/nutshell/market.htm, which gives some estimates about the number of veg*ns. My favorite is the vegetarian category, "True vegetarians plus those who self-report vegetarian but use some meat**, poultry, or fish OR view themselves as self-identified 'almost vegetarian.'" Apparently, in these surveys, some people choose vegetarian in the list of choices, but then in answers to later questions reveal that they eat meat.

Your chicken bath reminds of the old Koala Tea of Mersey joke. ;-)
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10:59 PM on 05/03/2011
I've been a vegetarian for about 17 years and a vegan for about 14 of those years. I must say I can't really identify with the difficulty of finding vegan dishes to eat at restaurants. The increasing availability of tasty veg options over the past decade has been a definite change for the better. While veg options have become much more common, the hostility towards veganism from a small minority among the omnivore set sadly hasn't changed much. Having grown up as the only vegetarian in a small Southern community, I've pretty much heard it all. I've never ceased to be amazed at how riled up a very small minority of people can get about the things I simply choose not to eat. If you are secure in your meat-eating, then another person's choosing not to eat meat shouldn't bother you. To each his or her own. No one is cramming tofu down your throat. If you see another's food choices as an indictment of your own, perhaps you really do need to reevaluate something.
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
12:47 AM on 05/06/2011
In my experience, it's not vegans choice not to eat meat or other animal products that bugs omnivores (at least it doesn't bug most of them that I know and you concede that the hostility comes from a small minority), but rather the fact that there's a vocal and judgmental segment of vegans who lecture and even berate people who do. Maybe YOU don't, but there are plenty who do, and it's not that the people on the receiving end of this kind of judgmental nonsense "see another's food choices as an indictment of [their] own." Militant vegans EXPRESSLY indict the food choices of omnivores; it's not just something a defensive subset of omnivores infers. And that's every bit as ANNOYING as the hostility you say you've encountered, even to someone who's perfectly secure in his or her meat eating.
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TaurusRose
just gimme some truth
03:21 AM on 05/07/2011
Blatantly distorted. It seems to me that just being a non meat eater stands as a reproach to meat eaters.
Vegans certainly are not made defensive by the meat diet...
they are not the one's with the bad diet.
Veggies aren't the ones who feel guilty about what they eat...
they are not the deniers
Nothing needs be said, meaters just consider our very existance
to be a reproach to their less conscientious choices.
It's that simple. We've seen it repeatedly.
Veggies very existance stands as an indictment to meaters.
Own it.
10:21 AM on 05/12/2011
Hi, elcerritan,

I think you're right that vegans can sometimes be vocally judgemental in a way omnivores aren't. That said, even though I'm no longer vegan, or even vegetarian, I'll still order the occasional vegan meal (when I can't be assured that the animal products are humanely sourced - not that the vegan meal is perfect either), and the conversation always pauses for a couple of seconds. No one ever says anything, but the look in people's eyes is generally one of uncomprehending pity, like the occasional meatless meal is going to kill anyone. (Of course, I don't exactly move in the most cosmopolitan of circles, and for most people I know, "meal" simply MEANS "meat/starch/two veg", or whatever.)

Whether you're vegan, vegetarian, or conscientious omnivore, you still stick out like a sore thumb in a culture where people largely don't give a cr@p where their food comes from.

Oh, by the way, isn't it cute how as soon as it was clear that BF was getting completely owned in the discussion of the JPII article, comments were closed, with a final sally from the author? That happens every time, doesn't it?
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TaurusRose
just gimme some truth
01:26 PM on 05/06/2011
In my 35 years of not eating meat or meat products, besides the hostility, I have also gotten just LOADS of incredulity!
"You don't eat meat?"

...looong pause with even greater incredulity....

"OMG~ you eat hamburger?"
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
01:31 PM on 05/07/2011
So you live on some planet other than Earth?
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onionboy
Blessed are the Cheese Makers
03:51 PM on 05/03/2011
I'm a little confused at the main premise. Is it asserting that there is a huge market for vegan customers, but restaurants refuse to cater to them or take their money? I just don't see that in my neighborhood. Where there are large numbers of vegans, I see vegan offering in restaurants and I see completely vegan restaurants.

There's no conspiracy. When vegans do become more "mainstream" in an area then restaurants will be looking to sell to them. They just want to pay the rent. If enough stay away from restaurants that won't change to meet their customer base, they'll go out of business. Many years ago I was trying to grab a vegetarian dinner in Texas (I think I was traveling around Houston) and I literally couldn't find a restaurant with a veg entree. They were catering to their return customers. I was out of my element. I had to make do.
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Steve41
Never insult anyone by accident. R.A.H.
12:21 PM on 05/04/2011
Well said.
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TaurusRose
just gimme some truth
01:32 PM on 05/06/2011
Restaurants are ignoring non meat eaters. Period. If they were not, they would stop putting MEAT PRODUCTS in food while calling them vegetarian. 70% of the dishes I would like to eat contain chicken stock. Usually gratuitous and unnecessary to the dish.
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onionboy
Blessed are the Cheese Makers
02:01 PM on 05/06/2011
That's true, but certainly not with a "period". It's economics. Most restaurants don't cater to everyone. They cater to a base that enjoys the particular food they serve.

My personal experience (not pretending to refer to any studies) meat eaters go out to eat more often, A LOT more often. And when I say personal, I mean me. My diet has changed over my life and I can put my eating-out graph against my vegetarian graph and they're going to be pretty close. So, if I'm a restaurant owner trying to make a buck, I'm going to cater to my customers, particularly my regular customers.

I can certainly open a vegan or vegetarian restaurant, and make them my regulars. There are several in my area, in fact, so clearly some restaurants have decided on that route.

They're not ignoring non meat eaters. They're ignoring non-customers.
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
01:59 PM on 05/07/2011
I've seen people who profess to be vegetarians who eat chicken or fish (or both), so it's not entirely surprising that restaurants might be "confused." Since some vegetarians are "pure veg" and don't eat dairy or eggs, while others eat one or the other or both, most restaurants that aren't specifically aimed at veg*n customers aren't going to go through the gyrations of figuring out how to cater to a customer base that's already small and whose dietary edicts aren't very clearly defined even in the minds of a lot of people who claim to follow them.

Restaurants are low-margin businesses with a high failure rate, so unless a place is located where there are LOTS of vegan/vegetarians, adding vegan dishes that hardly anybody will order makes no financial sense. Most restaurants also don't cater to people like me who only want to eat grass-fed beef and conscientiously produced eggs and dairy, but I'm happy to say that in some more "enlightened" areas of the country, where there are increasing numbers of such customers, more restaurants ARE catering to us because we're reaching "critical mass." However, until even more people have the same expectations, I don't anticipate finding this kind of food in the "average" restaurant, so I'm not sure why vegans expect to find their very minority diet catered to at any restaurant other than those aimed at them. There's a reason there are Kosher restaurants in NYC and not, say, Podunk, Montana.
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maribelles
have opinion? win fans, lose fans
03:19 PM on 05/03/2011
Lets look at some facts: the "meat substitutes " so generously supplied by Sysco and other companies are all GMO, and the many vegan products glammed up to look/taste like burgers, sausages, chili and what have you are full of GMO wheat- yes, full of gluten. And soy, which according to mounting studies and investigations is also not a health food, but a highly processed product full of isolates which harm our endocrine system.

The vegan "food" we are going to get (because of our "trendsetters"? ugh, please) is going to be highly processed pap, because it has been for years (think Morningstar Farms and Boca burger)

The REAL trend is for REAL FOOD- including unprocessed, clean, whole, raw dairy and grass fed pastured small farm-local meats- and grass roots healthy people with an education and experience in the holistic healing field are the trend-setters, not Hollywood party-goers.

We are all for eating more clean, organic, healthy vegetables and fruits, patronizing /supporting farmers markets (offering wonderful eggs, meats, dairy, local cheeses...), but veganism is likely always to stay just were it always has- as a passing fad, as the choice of a few, not the many. I don't know where this author goes out to dinner , I've yet to see a place (home or out) in 40 years that doesn't offer salads, vegetable dishes, casseroles, grains/ bean dishes ... along with our healthy high quality protein from local farm meat and dairy.
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PLDgyrl
We won Mitches!!!!!!!
09:28 PM on 05/07/2011
Great post!!!!!!
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TaurusRose
just gimme some truth
10:11 PM on 05/07/2011
You may think vegans are a passing fad and impractical, but I can make one guarantee:
the non-meat eating group is going to grow and grow and grow.
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AngelaQuattrano
I just like to write comments
11:42 PM on 05/10/2011
That is your opinion only. You can make no guarantee. The fact is that most vegans do give it up within a few years. The diet is not satisfying to everyone, and many people get cravings they are unable to resist. Cravings are the body trying to tell you something.
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Karl Wilder
Chef Stirring The Pot Harlem
01:32 PM on 05/02/2011
"- Instead of butter, use Earth Balance (you would not know the difference)" YOU might not know the difference, but pretty much every other person on the planet would know the difference. They can use it in the vegan dishes but the non vegans will know immediately.

Be VERY careful when consuming soy. It is largely a GMO crop and in it's unfermented state can be detrimental to your health. In addition Hexane (gasoline) is often used to extract the protein from soy. It is not automatically a health food.
01:10 AM on 05/08/2011
did you try earth balance? i have omni friends who say it's great

secondly, many vegans only eat non-gmo soy
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Karl Wilder
Chef Stirring The Pot Harlem
03:10 AM on 05/08/2011
Yes. I have tried Earth Balance in as many ways as one can try it. I teach cooking classes and sometimes there are vegan classes or non dairy. I found the Earth Balance to be a pretty detestable taste and not anywhere close to butter. When I can't use butter I do foods that would not need it instead of butter substitutes.

You may have omni friends who say it is great, my guess is that behind your back they say something very different, but it is possible they like it. I know no one other than a very few vegans who can stand it.
12:19 PM on 05/02/2011
Thank you, Kathy for this wonderful article. Here's hoping restaurants hear the demand and add delicious vegan food to their menus. The vegan diet is something more and more people are adopting and certainly is on the rise. You can walk into any local grocery store and find vegan options, so why not the same for favorite restaurants? People all over the US are becoming more interested in vegan food. It would be a horrible business move for restaurants not to follow the demand. Even fast food chains like Burger King and Subway offer veggie burgers/patties. These are chains that are all over, in every nook and cranny of the US and beyond. The fact that they carry veg food goes to show that the demand isn't localized in a certain state or area, this food revolution is throughout the US. Universities everywhere are adopting Meat Free Mondays, and adding more vegan food to their cafeterias. Why? Because students want it. Why this infuriates meat eaters, doesn't make sense. Why not have something for everyone? This is basic demand and supply, and there is no denying that the demand for vegan food is on the rise, with no signs of stopping. Again, thank you Kathy, for a intellectual article, that is realistic and can very easily be accomplished. Adding a vegan item or two will only boost sales for restaurants. Let's hope they're listening!!
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
12:30 PM on 05/02/2011
An "intellectual" article???
03:18 PM on 05/02/2011
Subway and Burger King have added vegetarian food options. Even if you get the veggie burger without cheese, there may still be dairy and eggs in the bun. You need to look at ingredient statements on the websites before drawing that conclusion.
03:38 PM on 05/02/2011
Hi Rachel,

Absolutely, thank you for pointing that out. Some meat free options still may have eggs and milk, which definitely aren't vegan, but which still are meat free. I would LOVE to see the meat free options at places like Burger King and Subway become completely vegan, but I am still happy to see meat free options on the menus. I think that it goes to show that they are supplying a demand for meat free food. Hopefully soon they will adopt completely vegan options, but I still do appreciate major fast food chains that make a step towards offering meat free options.
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dblueII
Share the kibble.
06:11 PM on 05/01/2011
So basically, your asking restaurants to ruin it for the rest of us. Sorry, stay home.
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crom14
09:00 PM on 05/01/2011
Ah no, some people like seafood and others do not. Some love animals (living) and some do not care.
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
09:13 PM on 05/01/2011
So all the world falls into either of these two categories? Those who "love animals (living)" and those who "do not care"? Classic fallacy of the excluded middle -- in fact, excluded MANY middles.
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dblueII
Share the kibble.
10:03 PM on 05/01/2011
Read it again. Soy milk instead of cream? Sorry, but barf.
unique
Animal lover forever
11:05 AM on 05/02/2011
You missed the point. She is asking resturants to put more
vegan dishes on the menu for vegans.
I went on a cruise and the menu on a daily basis had
vegan cusine.
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AngelaQuattrano
I just like to write comments
11:51 PM on 05/10/2011
But the commenters here are insisting that everything that is not a meat, fish, or poultry dish should be completely vegan, even if the food is less tasty to the people who have been eating it all along.
05:15 PM on 05/01/2011
Nice article. I have been vegan for twenty years, and have seen amazing progress, often shocking well-meaning friends who take me to dinner. Time and again I have seen friends worriedly tell the waiter that my husband and I are Vegan as if we were from another planet... only to have the waiter say "of course" and list our options.
I do agree with Kathy that while you can usually find something vegan everywhere, I will not return to a place where my options are nothing but side orders and no real meal.
Restaurants are a business, and they need to evolve with the times. This is no trend or fad, it is a fantastic way of life that becomes more popular every day.
03:21 PM on 05/02/2011
Not to be harsh, but I don't think the steak house will miss your patronage. But that's okay because there are many other restaurants that will cater to you and your husband. :)
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TaurusRose
just gimme some truth
02:02 PM on 05/09/2011
The most fabulous greeting was ours when a steakhouse (Pacific Dining Car) was the only place open at 2AM.
They took extra care to make us happy and well served with a heaping plate of mesquite grilled vegies (not on the menu) and a caesar salad fit for a king. They loved us and definitely wanted to take extra good care of us.
03:27 PM on 05/01/2011
...kind of a silly article. Just eat meat. Try it again.
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