More

Featuring fresh takes and real-time analysis from HuffPost's signature lineup of contributors
Kazim Ali

GET UPDATES FROM Kazim Ali
 

Navigating The Sacred And The Dangerous In The Holy Land

Posted: 07/23/11 10:17 AM ET

I was driven from the sea through the mountains to Jerusalem. Where every street has three names that do not always translate from one to another. Street of the "Mujahideen" translated into English and Hebrew as "Lion's Gate Road." But the "mujahideen" are not the 20th century martyrs but meant instead to refer to the men who fought with Saladdin nearly 1,000 years earlier.

History has long arms in a country crossed and recrossed by lines. Buildings, neighborhoods and whole cities are built one on top of another. Sound familiar?

But before I even got to Jerusalem, before I even got in the taxi I sat in the Passport Control room, waiting for hours. I talked to three different homeland security officers about why I was coming to Israel, what interest holy places had for me, and what my fathers, grandfathers and great grandfathers did for a living.

Finally at the end of it, strung out, agitated, annoyed, I waited to talk to yet another officer. His name was Adam, so named for the first man. He asked me point blank, "Do you intend to do violent acts while you are here?"

In spite of myself, and probably it wasn't the best reaction, I burst out laughing.

Later at the hotel, with the others in my delegation who had all arrived hours early, I recounted my adventures. Met with their indignation on my behalf I soothed their feelings with a bitter
admission: it was nothing I hadn't experienced before at the hands of the TSA in the United States whenever I returned to my home country from abroad.

I have as hard a time going home as I do coming to the one country that most emphatically not my home, that excludes millions of people like me based on their faith, including the ones that live inside its own borders.

Today we went first to Al-Aqsa, the Temple Mount. As we climbed the creaky wooden causeway we could see through the slats, Jewish worshipers who had come to the small fragment of the Western Wall. It was a poignant sight: a wandering people in their homeland, but still hovering at a remnant and in very temporary settings -- sitting in plastic lawn chairs or dragging makeshift podiums over on which to place their prayer books. And there, just ahead of us on the causeway, the other side of the whole equation -- twenty or thirty body-length riot-shields, stacked with easy reach for quick use.

On the Mount itself, the enormous Dome of the Rock and a mosque, built and destroyed many times. Around the mosque in the great tree-lined park, many small groups of men reciting the Quran. As with many Muslim mosques, it is not the building but the space itself that is important. In this case, the rock under the mosque. When you go inside there is a little stairwell under the rock you can climb into to prayer.

Where one can and can't pray is fraught here with all kinds of meaning. When a group of Jewish men came up onto the plaza the Muslim men began reciting loudly at the top of their lungs, a sonic resistance but a resistance nonetheless. One of the Arab men called the Jewish people "settlers."

Though I had always thought of settlers as people out in the territories building their kibbutzim, it isn't so. There are settlers inside Palestinian cities like Hebron and there are even settlers buying up or confiscating Palestinian buildings and apartments inside the Muslim Quarter of the old city and in East Jerusalem. You know them by the enormous Israeli flags hanging from the roof and by the barbed wire, surveillance cameras and other security measures.

Unlike the Jews who are not welcome inside the Dome of the Rock or the new Al-Aqsa mosque, I went straight up to the Western Wall. I put my hands on it and thought about what it would take for these two peoples to find their way to a peaceful understanding. I know there can be no peace without justice. I thought about writing a note dreaming of peace and wedging it into the wall, but felt I should leave the spaces in the rock for others.

We drove out to East Jerusalem and there found another wall -- the huge concrete barrier constructed around the territories is inside Palestinian land. It separates neighborhood from neighborhood, and choked off the livelihood of countless Palestinians, prevented them from reaching their jobs, squelched the growth of their economy and isolated them from Jerusalem, still the largest Palestinian city, with a population of more than 300,000 Arabs.

Nothing is simple in this place and the more you find out about what is actually happening here -- not in history or in legend but in the immediate daily lives of people living in the place -- the more complicated things become.

How does one travel from one wall, representing the lost hopes of a scattered people, to another -- which not only metaphorically represents but physically actualizes the lost hopes of another scattered people?

The characters are different, the events take place in different times, but one can't help but slowly realize that the story is the same.

 
 
 
I was driven from the sea through the mountains to Jerusalem. Where every street has three names that do not always translate from one to another. Street of the "Mujahideen" translated into English an...
I was driven from the sea through the mountains to Jerusalem. Where every street has three names that do not always translate from one to another. Street of the "Mujahideen" translated into English an...
 
 
  • Comments
  • 34
  • Pending Comments
  • 0
  • View FAQ
Comments are closed for this entry
View All
Favorites
Recency  | 
Popularity
05:00 PM on 07/28/2011
Who exactly is excluding who. Arabs refuse right of Jews to pray on their temple mount. King David bought the property and his son King Solomon built the temple mount long before birth of Islam. Islam desecrated temple mount by installing on it two mosques. Jordan back then used western wall as horse stable area. Its army desecrated tombstones on the Mt. of Olives, prohibited Jews from their Holiest site. Jews world over pray facing Jerusalem whereas Muslims pray facing Mecca with backs turned on Jerusalem. If not for Israel Police the minorities would have been at each others throats long ago. Brings to mind treatment of Egypt's Copts.
09:58 AM on 07/28/2011
Holy, Holy, that is where the problem starts, what a pity, religion, religion, religion.
04:51 PM on 07/26/2011
Holy Land - now that's a laugh! Let's see what could we call that place?

Constant fighting Land
Schisms Land
Bombed up Land
Drying up Land
Hatred Land
Fear-for-your-life Land

Holy Land - bah, humbug
04:00 PM on 07/25/2011
unfortunately there are 2 sides to everything, the barrier wall to one is sign of lost hopes of a people, to the other it represents security from violence, perhaps one day these perspectives can be met on middle ground.
lastpost
see biography
04:46 AM on 07/25/2011
"History has long arms"
and a highly dubious pedigree.

"Do you intend to do violent acts while you are here"
No, But is your belief system based on illogical notions? Such as; I would tell you if I were?

"based on their faith"
that if they had been raised to accept that up was down, they would question it?
Then what about the practical reality of inverted vision?

"the other side of the whole equation"
Have Priests teach the people that god wants them all to hop around on one leg. Then in one generation’s time, see how many have realized it was just a prank.

"what it would take for these two peoples to find their way to a peaceful understanding."
I find a few minutes of questioning will usually suffice. Although the realization that none of us know what the heck we are talking about, does have to sink in, circulate, and emerge as their own idea. Which tends to vary in timescale, depending on the insularity of the individual.

"I thought about writing a note dreaming of peace and wedging it into the wall"
How about writing a piece, explaining how we are all living in our own dream instead?

"the story is the same."
Invention, in its purest form.
MTTM
Your microbio is MT
10:29 PM on 07/24/2011
I wonder when the US will throw its support behind the uprising of the social justice movement in Israel and help them remove a tyrannical and oppressive government from power.

http://www.dailykos.com/story/2011/07/24/998065/-Israel-Erupting-in-Protests,-Tens-of-Thousands-Chanting-Revolution-%28UPDATE:-Knesset-Blocked%29?via=siderec

"Approximately 30,000 protesters marched in Tel Aviv last night, with social justice activists blocking central streets and chants of "Mubarak. Assad. Netanyahu" filling the air.

Tel Aviv police arrested 42 activists, which is an extremely rare number, "if not unprecedented," according to +972 Magazine, which has been closely following the circumstances surrounding the sudden rise of Israel's progressive left."
11:24 PM on 07/24/2011
they are not chanting about a corrupt and brutal government, they are complaining about house prices, this is comical that you think this calls for a uprising
01:35 AM on 07/25/2011
MTTM: Did you read the dailycos article or just make up what you wanted it to proclaim? I might agree with some well deserved criticism of the Israeli government but check your resource that you yourself include in your comment before you expound your views.
photo
humanbeing-rick
Born in the USA 1947
02:41 PM on 07/24/2011
My family, and extended family, have been very religious for generations. We have all wanted to visit the holy land, the homeland of Jesus Christ. However, the never ending violence in that region has scared us off, and prevented this important family experience. The selfish behavior of the few destroy the dreams of the many, and these selfish people will face a lot of Karma for that.
This world needs more love and understanding, and less striving for power and riches!
photo
Gregor53
Remembering your past gives power to the present.
04:37 PM on 07/24/2011
Well said and it is a dream many of us have. Too many people are angry at others for no other reason than they have diifferent thoughts and beliefs. However,as you saiid, there is alway a few that will destroy the dreams of many.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Wendy1844
"The earth is but one country...." Bahá'u'lláh
05:44 PM on 07/25/2011
Doesn't the Bible say something about not being fearful? If it's a dream of yours to go there, then go there! You'll be surprised at how peaceful it actually is.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Wendy1844
"The earth is but one country...." Bahá'u'lláh
05:51 PM on 07/25/2011
And btw, my avatar is a picture of a flower growing on Mt. Carmel in Haifa, Israel. For more, check out www.bahaipictures.com.
09:11 PM on 07/24/2011
Your fear of visiting Israel is too cautious. israel is the most free country in the ME and most peaceful where violence is right now nearly nill. You should not be aftraid to visit the country and you will not regret it
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Wendy1844
"The earth is but one country...." Bahá'u'lláh
05:45 PM on 07/25/2011
True. I always felt safe there, even at night walking around, which lots of people do without fear.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Cynthia Rays
peace in the valley seeker
12:22 PM on 07/24/2011
It is inspiring to walk in Jerusalem and areas where so much history exists. To think of who walked on the land and from where important ideas about human relationships and ethics came. At the same time it is heartbreaking to see the fear, the injustice and misunderstanding of forcing one group's rights over another group.
photo
Gregor53
Remembering your past gives power to the present.
04:35 PM on 07/24/2011
I can only imagine the thoughts that go through one’s mind as you walk the streets and pass through the gates of Old Jerusalem. Unfortunately, as you say, the Holy Land does not appear to be that holy considering the injustice, heartbreak and violence that frequently become the reality of the area. It is a shame Jerusalem cannot be made an “International City†under international control where everyone was welcome and safe. The three faiths all hold the same sites as holy and unfortunately, it is difficult for them to get along. Then there is the mess of the various Christian sects in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre where monks fight monks over territory in the church. So sad when one considers the prophets and teachers that once visited the sites.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
yonatan c
10:41 AM on 07/25/2011
i liked the idea of an international city, something which was accepting by the Israelis in 1947 but rejected by the Arabs. Now this will never been a reality.
12:18 PM on 07/24/2011
Beautifully captures a slice of the complexity here. As an American who has had the privilege of living and working in Jerusalem for the past three years, and who gets to cross borders that Israelis and Palestinians can't, I'm always happy to see more internationals giving serious and honest voice to the difficult realities here. Thanks for this wonderful piece.
09:55 AM on 07/24/2011
The Isaeli Army just today attacked the Palestinian elementary school in Hebron- The Tell Rumieda Center , stole a fruit knife , one childs jacket , and terrorized the children who were learning english. Is THIS about security as the Israeli's constantly bemoan? Or is this about a psychological terror inflicted on a population in an effort to get them to leave so Israel can have ALL of the land? Israel- the world has seen what you do--and it is disgusted.
07:19 PM on 07/24/2011
We all know dreadful things go on. being helpless we hide from them. Better to be in denial than ashamed. It is important to post information concerning such events.
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
photo
surferlaments
Help me Rhonda...
01:22 AM on 07/25/2011
you cannot speak for the world. you can only speak for yourself. therefore, you are disgusted. pretty simple huh?
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Relpo Miraculous
Psychobiological Anthropology
02:46 AM on 07/24/2011
Nice little story. I liked it.
11:30 PM on 07/23/2011
" I know there can be no peace without justice. "

Perhaps that's the problem. Don't look for justice, be rational men, look for peace. Think about it, what justice can ever really be had to a person who has lost a loved one to death, in any country, of any persuasion, for any reason?

Will justice bring them back in this life? No.

I have come to realize, Justice is an illusion.

All the money in the world won't bring back a man's ability to walk, who has lost that ability, especially unjustly, which isn't to say that a man shouldn't be compensated for his loss, but that compensation isn't justice, it's compensation. If a loved one is murdered and the murderer caught, life in prison, or the death penalty won't bring that person back, which would be true justice. Certainly, we must remove such offenders from society into prisons so that they won't murder again, but that is not justice, that is protection.

Certainly, we need law and order, but law and order doesn't bring us justice, it brings us peace, or at the least some semblence of peace.

If mankind is capable of any kind of justice, one to another, then they must leave justice to the realm of God. If they are to form any kind of peace amongst each other, they must form rational laws that respect all people, male and female, provide them equal access under and to those laws, then obey them.
11:44 PM on 07/23/2011
The ancients of all our religions thought and taught that one day we would be rejoined with our loved ones by the power of God and that rather then tears of sorrow we would cry tears of joy.

I suspect that they knew that only the power of God could bring justice and only in the afterlife, and not before. I suspect that they knew that seeking justice was a dangerous cause, and was more often then not unchecked anger and angst, disguised revenge, and sometimes vigilantism, none of which is justice, but insanity.

Perhaps it is that the greatest sin of mankind is to presume to know what justice is.
09:52 PM on 07/23/2011
Your words convey clearly the complicated nature of navigating through the holy land. Whenever I think of the conflict between the passionate groups of that area, I can't help but think of the fact that all our hearts beat the same. Human vs. human. We need human to reach out to human. The holiness of this land for all peoples deserves that respect.
photo
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Wendy1844
"The earth is but one country...." Bahá'u'lláh
05:42 PM on 07/25/2011
Nice post! F&F