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Kurt Friese

Kurt Friese

Posted: May 28, 2010 03:30 PM

Screwcaps on Wine Are Here to Stay

What's Your Reaction:
Read More: Cork , Cork Taint , Screwcap , Wine , Food News

There is a wide variety of baffling nomenclature in the wine world. Newcomers may wonder why flavors described as "tar," "tobacco," or "forest floor" could possibly be construed as good things, and how there can be a difference between aroma (the smell of the grapes in the wine) and bouquet (the smell of the wine).

Perhaps most confusing is the term "corked." This does not mean that the wine is sealed with a cork, nor that the cork has been removed. Rather, it is a shorthand term for cork taint, or wine that has been affected by trichloroanisole (TCA), a byproduct of the processing of tree bark into the familiar cylindrical wine corks. According to the San Francisco Chronicle, a study conducted in Australia at the 2004 Macquarie Bank Sydney Royal Wine Show, sampling more than 2000 wines from all over the world, showed that 8.45%, or an average of one bottle of every case, was contaminated with the foul-smelling chemical. Other estimates have ranged from 2% to 12%. Curiously, the Australian study found tainted bottles 2% more often in white wines than red, but offered no explanation as to why this might be.

Detectable at levels as low as 5 parts per trillion, TCA's effect can be as subtle as muting the aroma of the wine, or as overwhelming as a distinct smell and flavor of moldy newspaper. The good news is that most reputable wine sellers will accept returns of corked wines; although it is best to get the wine back to them as quickly as possible after opening, and with very little consumed from the bottle, just to be courteous. But, how can you tell that the wine is corked and not simply a bad wine?

There are four kinds of bad wine. First, there is corked wine and the wet cardboard character we were just discussing. Then there is oxidized wine, which can result from a bad seal or simply having been open too long. This can cause the wine to take on a brownish color and the taste of old apples or worse. There is also a multitude of fairly rare but possible bacterial taints that result from unsanitary conditions in the winery. Lastly, we have the very simple poorly made wine. In it, you'll find aromas, bouquets and flavors such as wet grass, cat's pee, band-aids or asparagus.

Avoiding the poorly made wines is just a matter of personal taste and experience; so too with the bacterial infections. To avoid oxidized wine, inspect the cork upon removal. Make sure that the top is dry while the bottom is uniformly moist, with no sign of the wine having leaked along the edge to the top (this can allow bacteria to multiply its was past the seal).

How to avoid cork taint? Simple: screwcaps. I know, one loses the ritual and romance of the corkscrew, but imagine if we were just today inventing the idea of wine and of putting it in a bottle. Do you think we would stop up the end with chunks of Portuguese tree bark? Not likely. Now there are those who say that the cork adds a certain something to a wine which will lay on its side for 10 or 20 years, though my palate is not sophisticated enough to be able to detect that. Nonetheless, how would you feel if you cared for a valuable wine for 15 years only to open it & discovered it had been tainted since day one?

There are synthetic corks, and by all accounts, these do make a good seal and return the ritual of the corkscrew, but they are expensive compared to screwcaps and in our society, the consumer pays for absolutely everything. The screwcap offers economy, a perfect seal, and the egalitarian idea of making wine more approachable for everyone. Tough to argue with that.

 
 
 

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There is a wide variety of baffling nomenclature in the wine world. Newcomers may wonder why flavors described as "tar," "tobacco," or "forest floor" could possibly be construed as good things, and h...
There is a wide variety of baffling nomenclature in the wine world. Newcomers may wonder why flavors described as "tar," "tobacco," or "forest floor" could possibly be construed as good things, and h...
 
 
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01:26 PM on 06/06/2010
Chef Friese is quoting
a 6 year old study on cork taint from a country that has almost completely committed to screw caps. The most recent studies show TCA taint from cork down to less than 1%, (Christian Butzke, an enology professor at Purdue University, in Vineyard and Winery Management magazine) In the six years since the Australian study, the cork industry has spent millions of dollars on improved forestry practices, increased quality control at production facilities and research into TCS contamination at wineries. All of these measures have increased cork quality, function-ability and reduced TCA taint.
The open pit mining for Bauxite, from which aluminum is made, remains one of the most environmentally hazardous practices. To produce one screw cap, ten times more energy is used and 24 times more green house gasses are emitted. Screw caps are NOT recycled in the US. A 2007 trans -national study found higher than normal levels of endocrine disruptor's in wines closed with screw caps (due to the plastic seal) and none found in wines closed with natural cork. Endocrine disruptor's are suspected as the leading cause of breast and colon cancer in the west. http://www.truewines.co.nz/news.php?nid=206797&nt=2

If we are going to open the discussion about wine closures, lets review all the facts, not just those that report erroneous outdated studies. To learn more about our work, please visit: www.corkreharvest.org
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
KurtMichaelFriese
Money is not speech - merely a megaphone
04:54 PM on 06/06/2010
I can tell you that from firsthand experience as a restaurant owner and chef for over 30 years who has opened literally thousands of bottles of wine, the number of TCA-tainted wines was and remains well over 1%.

Don't look now but your industry bias is showing.
05:21 PM on 06/06/2010
Chef Friese,
Before accusing me of industry bias, you should have gone to our website, to see that in fact we are NOT part of the cork industry but an independent, nonprofit environmental organization. At this point in time, we have received $0 in funding or donations from the cork industry. We represent all 6.6 million acres of the Mediterranean cork forests, which include millions of acres in Spain, Morocco, Tunisia, France, Algeria, Sardinia and Corsica, that do not produce any cork for wine.

As is often the case, when presented with the environmental issues concerning screw caps and plastic closures, your focus stayed on TCA and the fact that those alternative closures are harmful to our planet, are not sustainably sourced or biodegradable you ignored.

I too have been in the food and beverage industry for over 30 years and have opened thousands of bottles of wine.
The difference between you and I is that I understand that if we continue to poison our planet, there won't be any wines to open, tainted or not.
HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Mother77
11:41 AM on 06/04/2010
Sorry, decades of pulling the cork creates a welcome sound.
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
GerryS
I WANT to pay $1 million per year in taxes, or mor
08:12 PM on 06/02/2010
I read recently that wines sealed with a stelvin (screw top) closure will age,

and they age better than wines sealed with a plastic cork-----------
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
T4
Entreprenuer and financial consultant
10:58 PM on 06/01/2010
absolutely dead on - screw caps ahve been around and carry a stigma of low class - why? because the more expensive wines needed to differeniate themselves. in any blind taste test - the taster rarely can tell the difference in wines. go screw cap go and lower the price of my wine
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Donns
04:07 PM on 05/31/2010
I don't particulalry have a problem with screwtops. What I have a probem with is the heavy foil that they wrap them with. I generally take a sharp knife and try to cut the foil but often get sharp edges when I grip the cap to unscrew it. Screwtops can be very tight. I have had at least one fairly deep cut on my thumb this way. Now I either use a bar towel or more often use a belted jar opener to safely take these caps off. They make for good packaging but by all means be careful.
techjockey
Keeping My Gratitude Higher Than My Expectations..
05:32 PM on 05/31/2010
Try twisting the bottom of the bottle in the opposite direction from the top. These seals were meant to be easily cracked with 2 hands, not one.
07:20 PM on 05/31/2010
By far the easiest way to open a screw cap is with ONE hand--but grab the entire top half of the bottle with your whole hand, and twist the entire metal apparatus that includes the cap (while using the other hand to firmly grasp and steady the bottle). There is no need to try to use the other hand to twist in the opposite direction, etc. Give it one firm twist and the cap breaks free, and is ready for gentle, flamboyant twisting (optional, but preferably with pinky finger extended).

This method will spare your wrists, effortlessly snap the cap free from the metal sheath, and impress your friends (possibly, depending on your group of friends...)
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
T4
Entreprenuer and financial consultant
11:00 PM on 06/01/2010
Coordination is useful here as there is no heavy foil with screw caps but there is usually a covering with corked - are you sure you're talking aboutthe right thing
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
prettyinpink
Liberalism-Ideas so good-they're MANDATORY
12:29 PM on 05/31/2010
One word Zork

It has all of the advantages and none of the problems.

http://www.zork.com.au/USA/products-still-wine.html
08:27 AM on 05/31/2010
Kurt, thanks for a good writeup WRT wine enclosures in general and corks in particular. I've been in the wine business for over 15 years (UC Davis trained, now live/work and making wine in Priorat, Spain) and been serious about wine for over 30. As long as we use natural cork as an enclosure we will always have this problem...there's no getting around it. There is some hope on the horizon for those who either cannot (for market reasons) or simply refuse to change: a new "cork" being developed by Sabate called DIAM. Here's a link to a writeup on the subject:

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3488/is_2_86/ai_n12413998/

Other than that however, it's either gonna be natural cork, synthetic (plastic) cork, or screwtops. Choose your poison.
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
GerryS
I WANT to pay $1 million per year in taxes, or mor
08:13 PM on 06/02/2010
interesting atricle, THX-
This user has chosen to opt out of the Badges program
c-tom
Badges we don't need no stinking badges
03:07 AM on 05/31/2010
How much does improper storage effect corking ? I'm wondering if the effected wines were bounced around too much and not kept at a cool stable temperature. How many people have wine cellars? It's a moot point for me, I don't buy the kind of wines that need to age for a decade before use, but I am curious.
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Counterglow
Werner Heisenberg may have been right.
05:09 AM on 05/31/2010
Improper storage can ruin a wine in no time, but you don't really need a whole wine cellar for storage. Wine coolers in a huge variety of sizes do a good job of maintaining a decent environment for any wine you decide to age for a few years, and a lot of them are really reasonable. "Corked" wine is the winery's fault if anybody's, and even proper storage won't help.

One thing to remember: most wines aren't made to be stored for a long time. They're intended for immediate consumption or storage for somewhere in the 2 - 5 year range.
07:42 AM on 05/31/2010
You obviously are not in the wine business or you wouldn't have made such an ignorant remark, ""Corked" wine is the winery's fault if anybody's." How is this the "fault" ow the winery? Tell me, when I'm bottling 10,000 bottles of wine am I supposed to sit there and inspect each cork before it goes in the bottle (nevermind that a visual inspection tells you nothing WRT cork taint)? Corks, like every other material that goes into the final product (glass, labels, etc.) are sourced from outside suppliers. You use your best judgement to find a supplier of the highest quality and hope for the best. You simply cannot get 100% perfection.

Corks have always had this problem and always will (although it is much better than it was even say, 10 years ago). Here are your choices: 1. natural cork, 2. synthetic (ie, plastic) "corks", or 3. screwcaps. Choose your poison, but bear this in mind: No matter what enclosure you choose you are bound to piss off at least a quarter of the end consumers. What fun!

To say that cork taint is simply the fault of the winery is ridiculous. Think next time before tossing out grossly derogatory remarks.
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SolarArray
Republican = Trash America, Any Cost
03:03 AM on 05/31/2010
Screwcaps are great and I think we'll be seeing many more wines adopt this method.
10:08 PM on 05/30/2010
"Now there are those who say that the cork adds a certain something to a wine which will lay on its side for 10 or 20 years, though my palate is not sophisticated enough to be able to detect that. "

How do you know? Have you ever tasted a quality wine -- or any wine, for that matter -- that was 10 or more years old and that was not sealed with a cork? If you haven't made the comparison, then you can't make the statement.

I know people who think they can't tell when a wine is corked, until you give them some corked wine.

I would think that screwcaps seal better than corks, which are porous, and it is reasonable to think that the difference might have an impact on how wines age. We won't know until we try.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
KurtMichaelFriese
Money is not speech - merely a megaphone
11:31 AM on 05/31/2010
Yes, I have. I've been a professional chef for 30 years and a wine writer for 10. Many studies have been conducted, both professional and amateur, for comparisons. the most notable come from here:

http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:bdHu8JZ4z0AJ:www.oldbridgecellars.com/data/AWRI_10YrScrewcapTrial.pdf+site:oldbridgecellars.com+screwcap&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESiDrDHnBTMqSLRww7VLSatT0x7rmMPNHCY0nlmpbDqbV4-mUoO2fsDRqWou9il2dIp1Zdvjcp7vNUNjOl4e3onnLrMkRSX1sYVOYsbZB2oMIon68pnScIjEgqUrVJ_IzjMPPJ9p&sig=AHIEtbS3Luy5cu5Fja08v938PZkBqeksRQ
12:47 PM on 05/31/2010
Thanks for the interesting article.

It seems that in the test, people could tell the difference. Are you saying that you personally have compared ten-year-old screw cap and cork sealed wine and could not tell the difference?
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Zen0469
An empty micro-bio is a happy micro-bio.
06:33 PM on 06/14/2010
Enjoyed your article. Many thanks.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Natalie Edwards
07:45 PM on 05/30/2010
Screw cap is the only way to go, particularly for white wines. I hate to think of how many bottles of corked wine I paid for and drank in the past. Not an issue now. Try a New Zealand sauvignon blanc with a screw cap and you won't go back - promise
04:16 AM on 05/31/2010
I have and I did go back. Sorry I'm a corker. Hee Hee.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Stephanie71
12:07 PM on 05/31/2010
Natalie, I was about to use the same exact example. I haven't bought any reds yet with the screwcap, but every bottle of NZ and South African Sauv Blanc in the past year has had a screwcap and they certainly don't seem to suffer for it. I think the screwcap helps it retain its crispness in my fridge through the week as I work my way through finishing off the bottle.
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
MissCupcake
**JAZZ HANDS**
07:24 PM on 05/30/2010
Another closure on the market is the ZORK. Its a combo of the cork and Stelvin. Kind of like a stopper in liquor bottles. Its being used by The Other Guys wine group. They're the sons of the Sebastiani folks. Their wines include a great Lodi Zin called Plungerhead and a decent value brand called Leese-Fitch.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Lex10
King O' The Web!
05:36 PM on 05/30/2010
Caps are more kid-friendly.
Kidding. I've had astoundingly good screw cap wines (Oz and Chile mostly) and have finally abandoned the hash pipe/stash box doper's substitute ritual of the corkscrew.
garystartswithg
el sueno de la razon produce republicans
01:32 PM on 05/30/2010
i have abandoned bottles for boxes. i am sulfite sensitive and always got the idea there were more sulfites in screw cap wines -- can anyone back this up or refute this?
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HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
MissCupcake
**JAZZ HANDS**
03:34 PM on 05/30/2010
I'm not sure. I think it has more to do with the wine making than storage. But white wine has more sulfites than red, sweet wines will have more than both red and white.
Can you eat mushrooms?
garystartswithg
el sueno de la razon produce republicans
04:24 PM on 05/30/2010
not a bad reaction or anything -- i can taste it and in screw caps its tastes more so -- i don't know how to explain it -- its kind of metally/salty/chemically, mostly as a mddle/aftertaste thats like licking sardine cans or something. weird huh? i impressed a sommelier with it -- maybe i missed my calling -- only i like big fruity wines, not 92 pointers. great sommelier though -- he got me hooked on cava with sushi. sounds weird until you try it.
a friend of mine (dietician) says i am a "super taster" -- its basically like a hyper-sensitive thing to some tastes -- like bitter -- i can't even think about eating a lot of things people eat all the time -- grapefruit, shard, turnip.
love me some mushrooms -- cooking up some for a veggie ragout with fennel and sweet onions now!
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
KurtMichaelFriese
Money is not speech - merely a megaphone
11:34 AM on 05/31/2010
The amount of sulfites has nothing to do with the closure. A certain amount are present in all wines. Most wines add additional sulfites for reasons of preservation. Some people, like you (and my mom, coincidentally) are very sensitive to them and must therefore avoid most wines, Seems such people have an easier time with white wines, which while they do contain sulfites, they contain less.
08:34 PM on 05/31/2010
Are there sulfite-free wines? I had a customer come in last night who asked if we had any wines without sulfites. Perhaps the customer thought boxed wines didn't contain any? All I could say was no, but I felt I should have known more.
12:28 PM on 05/30/2010
A PTFE (Teflon) seal on the inside of a screw cap would be ideal. It would provide a perfect seal, and at the temperatures at which wine is stored PTFE is incredibly stable-- much more stable than the glass of the wine bottle. Nothing will leach out of it and it will absorb nothing.