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Lee Zukor

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Good Food Is Not (Only) a Class Issue

Posted: 05/10/10 02:56 PM ET

If current trends continue, 1 out of 3 Americans will get type 2 diabetes in their lifetime. This includes 1 out of 2 African Americans and Latinos. The facts are compelling and clear:

* People in poor areas often do not have access to fresh food.
* Good food often costs more money.
* Fast food restaurants target minority groups with their advertising dollars.

But what about the rest of us? What about those who can afford good food but choose not to buy it? Why do we overwhelmingly, consistently make poor food choices for ourselves and our kids, even when we know better? Here are a few ideas:

Good food costs more.

On the surface, we tend to accept this as a truism, a simple fact: local and organic food costs more than industrial food. Want evidence? There's loads:

* Grass fed beef costs $1 - $5 more than industrially raised beef per pound.
* Organic apples cost between $0.50 and $1.50 more than industrially grown apples per pound.
* Organic, fair-trade bananas often cost double what industrially grown bananas cost.

But why do families who can afford good food choose not to buy it? Joel Salatin says:

When it comes to most things, we believe we get what we pay for. Shoes, clothes, cars... but when it comes to food, we don't believe that. Most of us have a more intimate relationship with our hair cutter than we do with our farmer.

We've come to think of cheap food as our right, and the idea of paying more when we could pay less seems silly, almost un-American. We're saving our money for the things we think are really important, like cable TV and betting on football games.

But cheap food is a fallacy: it does not exist. When we choose to purchase industrially grown vegetables laden with pesticides, corn fed beef devoid of its nutritional value, and pork raised near manure lagoons, we pay the price. Health care costs skyrocket (the system is overwhelmed with type-2 diabetics and other obesity-related patients) as does the cost of cleaning up the environmental messes we make.

Simply put: we can pay a fair price for our food now, or we can pay a lot more for our health and environmental safety later.

Bad food tastes great.

Most Americans think a Big Mac tastes better than a turkey sandwich, and the fat, sugar, salt, and infused flavors in that Big Mac are meant to keep it that way.

Why do we feed our kids soda with their lunch? Why do we choose a Whopper instead of a salad? Why do we knowingly feed ourselves and our families food that is not good for us? Why do we cling to the bold health claims on the sides of cereal boxes that we know to be untrue? Because it tastes good! And also because...

Good food takes time.

This is true on multiple levels. Good food -- pasture-raised, pesticide-free, grass-fed food -- often grows more slowly than industrially raised food. Grass fed cattle need extra months to put on weight, for example.

And good food takes time to prepare: It takes time to wash and cut carrots, to season and grill fish, to find a recipe, buy ingredients, and cook a good meal. It takes time to eat with a knife and fork.

Many of us have decided that this is time we don't have. We've prioritized our life activities, and food didn't made the cut. We've decided that food is what we eat in the car between work and soccer practice, rather than something for which we make time.

We hate to deprive ourselves.

We work hard, and we deserve a treat. Many of us have been told what to do all day at work. We've been deprived of sunlight, of a flexible schedule, of meaningful work, of exercise, of all sorts of things that make us feel good and human.

Bad food gives us the illusion of control, and it makes us feel good right away. Guilt and health concerns may come later, but right now we need a treat.

We hate to deprive our kids.

When the marketing teams hit their mark, our kids want sugar cereal, chocolate milk, ice cream, hot dogs, and chicken nuggets. But why do we give it to them when we can afford better food choices?

Time-pressed, stressed-out parents know the answer: it's hard to say no to our kids. There are all sorts of reasons for this, including:

* We don't like to fight
* We don't want to disappoint our kids
* Negotiating with kids is irritating and time-consuming

So, despite the fact that we know the food lacks nutrients -- and that we can afford much, much better -- we continue to feed our kids the junk they demand.

This doesn't make us bad parents, does it? It's not like our kids are asking for cigarettes or coffee, right? We'd definitely draw the line there. We're not feeding them things that are unsafe, are we?

Bad food is just as safe as good food.

Okay, I'll admit it: I don't believe this at all. When we consume animals raised in feedlots, we consume the antibiotics that they consumed, increasing our own resistance to antibodies. When we eat apples grown with pesticides, we consume the pesticides they are covered in. When we eat beef that has been contaminated with feces, we consume feces.

Although conclusive results are hard to come by, several studies have shown that organic food grown in rich soil contains more nutrients than food raised on industrial farms. This makes intuitive sense: good soil begets good food. And eating organic produce means we can eat the peel without ingesting bonus pesticides.

In this context, we must also consider the health and safety of our communities and our environment. Good food is produced for a fair price, and does not take more from the earth than it gives back. Good food nourishes our bodies, our minds, our communities, and our planet. Good food doesn't pretend to cost less in the short-term, and then extract its toll on our health and our land over time. Isn't it worth a couple of extra bucks?

Summing Things Up

The issues of racism and classism in our food system are compelling and infuriating. These issues need to be addressed on a daily basis by our communities and our government. But there are many other issues affecting our country's ability to promote the health of our bodies and our planet as well. Understanding why those of us who can afford good food choose not to buy and prepare it can help us understand the cultural and social roots of the problem. And then, maybe, we can start to fix it.

 
 
 
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07:06 PM on 05/18/2010
Good food definitely has an image problem, and some of the people promoting it are making the problem worse. For example, anyone who is considering buying organic local produce who wanders into a Whole Foods is probably is more likely to leave a committed customer of Sam's Club than with a bag of vegetables. Paying extra for good food is one thing, but outrageous boutique prices are irritating, even if you can afford them. And it doesn't help that good food often comes with an unwanted dose of attitude. Self-righteous vegans are the best marketing tool McDonalds and KFC ever had.

Selling good food for health reasons also can backfire. Not only are most of the health claims poorly supported, but it also can make good food seem like medicine.

Superior flavor really a good selling point. Sympathy for small farmers is another. In the end a more sustainable (and more enjoyable) food supply will come only if rural depopulation is reversed and the number of people involved in food production-- even as gardeners-- grows to the point where local supplies can replace junk trucked in from Florida and California.
06:41 AM on 05/15/2010
Thank you for the interesting article.
Wish someone could give me the solutions!
The key items for me are "bad food tastes good," "I don't want to be deprived", and (the kicker) "good food takes time."
Of those three, it's easier to address the first two. If I take time for myself during the day, I crave the candy less. (What? It's okay to make a cup of tea before I answer the next ten emails? Radical!) And I do like good food...though I like bad food too.
The killer is time. *Thank you* for noting that it's not just about the actual time in the kitchen, it's about choosing recipes and shopping for the ingredients. And making sure they are all used before they go bad. Chicken breasts are so unforgiving when you've had an unexpectedly long day... if it's day 3, cook them or toss them.
When I was working 40 hours instead of 50, and when I was not in a relationship, I cooked. Weekends, mostly, but then there was food in the freezer for weeknights.
I get so frustrated with the experts who say, "You should cook!" It should be so easy. Historically, cooking has been done either by paid staff or by unpaid staff (wives and mothers). I am *not* saying that the working wife/mother is the downfall of civilization. But working full time and cooking good food is tough math.
04:48 PM on 05/14/2010
I think the answer to your questions is brutal but worthwhile thinking about: of course people care, but could it be that many just do not care ENOUGH?
08:20 AM on 05/15/2010
Very well said. It IS brutal, and it's also very true. Jonathan Safran Foer has a great line in "Eating Animals" (actually he has many), something about not being willing to sacrifice deliciousness for something more important. I think that's incredibly true, and pretty upsetting to really think about.
04:04 PM on 05/14/2010
It's tough to get Americans to clean up their diets. For the first part, Americans DO NOT LIKE TO BE TOLD WHAT TO DO. The public face of Slow Food/Better Table is Alice Waters. Sure, she's a very nice woman, but she lacks the charisma, humor and the warmth to connect middle America. When she visited Chicago, after she talked a few folks into trying her food, she was offered a Chicago style hot dog and freaked out.

When we ask other Americans to examine their diets are we scolding them or welcoming them into fold? I think Micheal Pollan has been great with the press, when he was on Oprah he admitted to having a soft spot for cookies, fries and cake. He did say that his rule for eating those "bad foods" is that they had to be prepared from scratch. He quite reasonable, warm and funny. I think he was able to connect with public.
08:21 AM on 05/15/2010
I agree - I feel the same way about Jamie Oliver. It's great to have spokespeople within the movement who everyone else can relate to. People are never going to listen to people who seem completely out of touch.
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coldwatermd
10:36 PM on 05/13/2010
Lee Zukor,

Thank you for asking!

Website: http://members.authorsguild.net/fleckenstein/blog.htm/
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missjulz
romneying with scissors always gets someone hurt
03:44 PM on 05/13/2010
"Simply put: we can pay a fair price for our food now, or we can pay a lot more for our health and environmental safety later."

And that, as they say, is that. Our short sightedness on this issue continues to baffle me daily.
10:18 PM on 05/13/2010
Ain't that the truth!
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hugatree
Retired teacher, writer
12:42 PM on 05/13/2010
We need to be screaming this to the masses through bullhorns on street corners.
01:27 AM on 06/26/2010
You'll reach a great deal a people at many of the corners around my area, because so many will be sitting down to eat.

Wall to wall fast food.
11:50 PM on 05/12/2010
Great article. About ten years ago a young woman informed me that a casual meal I had prepared for some freinds was "fancy food". She was not joking. The meal was salmon, local asparagus and un-sliced whole wheat bread. At the time (about ten years ago) you could stick your hand in the nearest river and smack a salmon without trying. The incident reminded me that for some people their relationship with food is shaped in part by the depression era idea that good food is only for special occasions and all food, no matter how awful, should be appreciated. Unfortunately this mindset did not die before the advent of artificial food.
10:47 AM on 05/13/2010
This is a great point. And it's hard to disagree with those who think all food should be appreciated - even the corn syrup in my Frosted Flakes was produced by a hard working farmers, right? It's good to be part of a growing movement of people who think that cooking simple foods every day is a better way to live. I continue to have the experience you describe, where anything besides tearing it out of the box and putting it in the microwave is considered a big deal.
07:01 PM on 05/13/2010
Your point about hard working farmers reminds me of another friend who was very gently scolding me for being "fussy" about food claiming all food comes from God. No, no, no, I said, some "food" comes from Satan. If God were to join us for dinner and macaroni and cheese from a box was served, I think he would wonder where the he## it came from and be slightly offended by the notion that it was a gift. I told her to read the ingredients and, surprisingly, she agreed.
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berrynoir
07:19 PM on 05/12/2010
Very good basic article about the reasons people should make more healthful choices. My mother has a very hard time with the idea of "expensive" anything. So when I mention organic or grass-fed, etc it's always too much for her. Although she is nearly a full vegetarian and eats no salt, sugar or fats regularly (or for the last 30 years) she just can't bear to pay more for an organic apple. "They cost an absolute fortune!" I sent her a copy of this and we'll see.
10:38 AM on 05/13/2010
It's hard to convince people that the food they're buying is fundamentally different, isn't it? The regulatory system we've got in place is meant to give us the OK to buy anything we find in the grocery store, not to understand and appreciate the difference between real food and other products that are wearing food costumes. This is a real, important issue. How can we convince people that one apple is not the same as another apple? Let us know how it goes with your mom, please!
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berrynoir
09:59 PM on 06/09/2010
Lee, I liked your language about the food items we're buying being fundamentally different so much that I've adopted it when talking to people about why I've chosen the organic and antibiotic-free route. But my mother...try talking a stubborn 81 year old into anything, let alone spending more money! But she was present when the topic came up recently with several other octogenarians. My mother announced confidently that she had made it to 81 and that at this point it didn't make the slightest bit of difference if she ate organic or not. Without missing a beat, a woman slightly older than she snorted and said "and how do you think we got to be this age? EVERYTHING we ate as children WAS ORGANIC!" - my mother can still argue that she believes, at her age, it doesn't matter if that apple is organic or not, but that bright lady gave me the perfect answer to her skepticism of organic in general...she didn't grow up eating it!
06:06 PM on 05/12/2010
What a cool article! You are right on the money on so many things. Good food cooked from scratch actually used to be normal for lower income families where the mom stayed home and cooked. The need for two incomes scratched that possibility off. The other thing that scratched that option off is the total decline of farmers' market and rise of the superstores. It used to be that pre-packaked and supermarket store was more expensive- seriously, it used to be that way! Now the main ingredients, if it happens to be a vegetable is more expensive than the complete tv dinner- so sad!

On the issue of deserving a "treat" though, I have to disagree. I admit to being a total food snob- I cook basically every meal although I have a full time job and a toddler. I do have a sweet tooth, but just because something is sweet, that does not make it a treat. A treat should be exactly that- a delicious morsel that surprises and delights the taste buds- not a Starbucks muffin!

Recently I ran across a comment on a Michael Pollan article entitled Pay More, Eat Less. I could not agree more. Portions don't need to be so huge. It is taste, flavor, quality, nutrition that matters, not size.

Thanks for a great article!

www.frenchpressmemos.blogspot.com
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berrynoir
07:26 PM on 05/12/2010
I agree with you about the "treat". I'm also a foodie and cook for pleasure. For about as long as I can remember, eating something like McDonald's has been followed by me feeling like I really really wish I hadn't. I have no taste for fast food, nor for gigantic things that, halfway through, I can't remember wanting. Thomas Keller said the key to his dishes was to leave the diner wanting "one more bite". That, to me also, is a treat.
09:36 AM on 05/13/2010
I'm with you guys, although, I don't think the author was necessarily bashing anything sweet (a homemade cookie for example) as being evil as a treat. I felt he was using the argument that we can easily find rationalization for not cooking but "treating" ourselves to fast food or junk food.

Either way, I too am a Michael Pollan devotee and though I don't think I qualify as a food snob (not a good enough cook) I am very particular. I do all the cooking and shopping. I buy organics and shop at the co-op. I've found that the co-op offers bins of certain foods/ingredients I can buy in just the portion I need so I don't spend any more money buying for my family for a week than if I bought a giant pack of something horrible at a superstore.

My wife and I have a three-yr-old as well, but my job affords me great flexibility, and I consider myself very lucky. I can start dinner while working from my home office. My kid doesn't know that dinner does not always include baby spinach or broccoli, and she may not love it (she is a kid), but she always eats it. I feel very fortunate and wish everyone could have the flexibility and access we do.
10:43 AM on 05/13/2010
Yes, Camel54, you understood my point exactly, and you did a better job articulating it than I did - thank you! There are several issues here: what is a treat, how often do we need one, how much do we need, etc. I think as a culture, we've come to think we deserve a treat all the time, and fast, cheap, processed food is something that falls into this category for some people.

We also feel that certain things are our RIGHT - cheap food, for example, or that "emergency cheeseburger" on the way to soccer practice. As a culture, we don't like to deny ourselves anything. (Not you and I, OTHER people :-))
10:15 PM on 05/11/2010
Perhaps an even more important, but related, issue is FOOD SUPPLY SAFETY. Just this week we had still another E.Coli breakout in the food supply. Why no outrage? Why hasn't the administration addressed this topic as Mr. Obama promised during the campaign? Why hasn't Congress passed "Kevin's Law"? ( A proposed law that's been stuck in committee for years that would allow the FDA to shut down a meat packing plant that has failed to eliminate toxic bacterial contamination found in successive inspections.) Why haven't we - the public - demanded action?
10:34 AM on 05/13/2010
You're so very right. There are MANY issues. As a nation, we've come to accept the risk to our food supply as one of the unfortunate side effects of our food system, rather than getting angry and doing something about it. I'm in, let's go!
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lrobb
Southern Rational
06:43 PM on 05/11/2010
Everyone is trying to overthink the problem. Why we eat what we do has four components: familiarity, flavor, cost and convenience. If you were raised eating mac-n-cheese as the ultimate comfort food there is no power on earth great enough to make you give it up. So--develop a recipe using durham wheat pasta augmented with flax seed, fat free milk, potassium chloride instead of salt, Smart Balance or other healthy margerine and fat free sharp cheddar. Please stop trying to change everyone's lifestyle. You will come a-cropper every time you try.

Why are none of the health-food gurus coming up with recipes average families will eat? Probably because they have moved to the big city and can no longer see "average" in the rear view mirror, and disastrous for the future health of America if we rely on their "expertise."

Example: What do foosditas think of ketchup? Yep. Thought so. BUT--ketchup is one of the best sources of lycopene on the planet. Not to mention kids will eat anything loaded with it. Slightly change the recipe to a non-sugar/non aspartamine sweetener and substitute potassium chloride for sodium chloride (salt) in the recipe and you have a perfectly healthy and completely familiar condiment all children want to soak their food in.

Stop trying to make people change their eating habits. Change the food to healthy alternatives which satisfy those eating habits. You aren't going to win any other way.
09:49 AM on 05/13/2010
Irobb, what you're saying makes a great deal of sense, and I think you're right that making healthier versions of familiar foods is a great approach. However, some of the problems you run into are things like margarine. It is not healthier than butter. It's just less fattening. It contains hydrogenated oils that are far worse for us than natural, saturated fats. Ketchup contains high fructose corn syrup like far too many products. I agree, make a better ketchup instead of getting rid of it, though.

I also disagree about changing eating habits, though. No, it's not easy, but it can be done. I am a southerner who grew up eating the comfort foods (soul foods) like mac-n-cheese and fried chicken and biscuits, etc. I have changed my ways, though. It can be done.

But you're right, finding recipes average families will eat is absolutely necessary. We just have to make sure that the right ingredients are available for those families, which too often they are not. Ever shopped at a grocery located in a poor part of town? Then you have to convince the families to spend the time preparing those recipes. When you're poor, it's too easy to compare dollars spent at McDonald's to those needed to buy and prepare a meal at home and choose the golden arches.
10:33 AM on 05/13/2010
This is such a fascinating discussion. I totally agree that for people who frequent McDonald's, our first challenge might be getting them to eat a better burger. But I also think that - to Camel54's point - all of these food substitutions are (at least part of) what has gotten us into this problem in the first place. Is it easier to convince people to stop eating ketchup, to eat better ketchup, to make their own ketchup, etc? And nevermind what's easier, which is BEST?

So we need information, for sure, and we need to meet people where they're at in order to help them make better decisions.

I often think about the success of the Atkins Diet - I think it proves how much easier it is for us to "eliminate" than to "moderate." The problem is that eliminating is not a sustainable appro9ach to eating, and moderation is so dang hard!
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coldwatermd
12:29 PM on 05/13/2010
This is a very good idea, and an excellent first step.

The main problem, however, is: The moment you are confronted with the traditional bad version of your improved recipe, you will fall for it. There is no way you will ever fall for a hamburger or macaroni and cheese again after you have banned it from your system for many years. The thought of it will turn your stomach in revolt.

Alexa Fleckenstein M.D., physician, author.
09:49 AM on 05/11/2010
great article!
09:48 AM on 05/11/2010
This article is so good and so true! Lee hits every point on how we have really become programmed by advertising to believe we deserve to eat bad food!
03:26 PM on 05/11/2010
Thanks YogaSnob! We make these kinds of decisions so often that we might not even know we're doing it. Awareness is a good first step, and then a desire to make a change. Common sense is a great guide when it comes to choosing our food.
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spitfiredd
My micro-bio has got it going on.
10:44 AM on 05/12/2010
Either awareness or completely unplugging yourself from mainstream media outlets.
04:41 PM on 05/10/2010
Thanks friends. I couldn't agree more with your point, Alexa. We've gone from feeling like treats are something we have once a week to something we deserve after each meal, soccer practice, and presentation. I'm as guilty as the next person.

It's easy to say that the real issue is awareness, but many of us are completely aware and still utterly unable - or unwilling - to make the change we believe in. But we've GOT to.

-Lee
10:00 AM on 05/13/2010
Agreed. I married into a family that believes dessert is a fundamental, daily human right, and I was raised believing it is a rare treat. The battle over what my daughter is allowed to eat and when has raged since her birth. Make no mistake, these are wonderful people, but they cannot comprehend a meal that doesn't end with a sweet--it is that ingrained. Moreover, it's the unwillingness to read labels or to double-check health claims on foods. If it's too depressing or too discouraging, people just turn a blind eye. So many things these days are frustrating, sad, infuriating, etc. so who wants food to be that way? Food should be an enjoyable experience, right? I agree with them on that, I just think there's a better way to enjoy it than how we're doing that now.
10:49 AM on 05/13/2010
And if we enjoy it the same way every day, it becomes less enjoyable, doesn't it? If a sweet treat happens every day, what do we do when we want something special? I'm a fan of Michael Pollan's rule about eating as many sweets as you want as long as you make them from scratch (although I don't follow it often enough).