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Lesley M. M. Blume

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ICONS OF STYLE SERIES: Diana Vreeland, History's Most Joyous Fashion Editor (PHOTOS)

Posted: 11/01/2010 1:36 pm

*Scroll down for the complete slideshow from LIFE.com*

In 2007, I launched on this site a column called Lets' Bring Back -- which has, over the past three years, celebrated hundreds of forgotten-yet-delightful fashions, pastimes, objects, and personalities.

Today Let's Bring Back will make its debut as a book -- and in honor of its release, the Huffington Post's Style section has spotlighted ten historical style icons featured in the book's pages.

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Our first ICON OF STYLE profile on performer Josephine Baker created quite a splash, and then many of you "met" brilliant hat designer Lilly Daché, our second ICON OF STYLE subject. Our third subject, Surrealist designer Elsa Schiaparelli, was once as dominant in the fashion industry as her then-rival Coco Chanel. Last weekend, we celebrated screen siren and war heroine Marlene Dietrich. And earlier this week, the world's first supermodel, Suzy Parker, activist heiress Nancy Cunard, and the Marchesa Casati, artists' muse and high priestess of eccentricity, resurfaced to dazzle the masses. This weekend we were treated to visits with Edith Head, most famous and witty costume designer in history and hippie-chic actress Ali MacGraw.

Many of these tastemakers, designers, and muses are now unjustly fading from public memory. Now that you've spent some time with them, I hope that you agree that each deserves to remain in the limelight.

After all, fashion is fleeting, but true style glimmers forever.

Today we present our tenth and final subject, legendary fashion editor Diana Vreeland. I cannot understate her importance to me as a personal touchstone. Her writings (including her whimsical "Why Don't You ...?" columns for Bazaar magazine and her madcap memoir D.V.) greatly influenced Let's Bring Back as a concept; the book is partly dedicated to her, and she pops up in nearly every chapter, offering her thoughts on topics ranging from speakeasies to pet cheetahs to larders.

In my humble opinion, there has never been a more joyous fashion editor, and hopefully her fearlessness, originality, and vision will continue to inspire future generations as well.

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The following excerpt is from Let's Bring Back (Chronicle Books, November 1):

DIANA VREELAND (c. 1906-1989)


It's hard to know where to begin or end when it comes to the great Diana Vreeland: she was a rare, remarkable figure who made life seem less linear.

Vreeland helmed American Vogue from 1962 to 1971; like her eventual successor, Anna Wintour, Vreeland was bathed in the national spotlight during her tenure at the magazine. She appeared in fictionalized form in the 1957 film Funny Face as Maggie Prescott, the amusingly dictatorial and emphatic editor of Quality magazine. Maggie's signature exclamation--"Let's give 'em the old pizzazz!"--sounded remarkably like Vreeland on any given day at the office.

Famous for her bon mots and fantastical, bold gestures, Vreeland was the perfect Space Age fashion editor, constantly challenging the industry to cross new frontiers. She encouraged women to never fear being vulgar, only boring--advice that she most certainly followed herself. Vreeland's very appearance reflected her mantra that beauty could sometimes be strange and even alarming: patent-black hair; long red-lacquered talons; a severely painted red mouth, and sometimes even rouged earlobes. Every morning, her maid ironed her money and polished her shoes--top and bottom.

Vreeland never let the boring old truth interfere with her self-perception or the image of herself that she projected to the world; a mix of fact and fiction ("faction," she called it) was her preferred modus operandi. According to Vreeland, throughout the course of her life, she had:

• Sat in the rafters at King George's coronation;
• Befriended "Buffalo" Bill Cody on a childhood excursion to Wyoming;
• Witnessed the Lindbergh flight while sitting on her suburban lawn with her husband's bootlegger;
• Sat with Josephine Baker and her diamond-collared cheetah in the balconies of a Paris movie house;
• Gotten into a fistfight of sorts with über-agent Swifty Lazar at a dinner party given by the Oscar de la Rentas.

There are countless similar Vreeland anecdotes. While some of her literal-minded contemporaries scoffed at her tenuous relationship with reality, they totally missed the point, which was always about making an impression, creating a unique world. As Vreeland said in D.V.:

"Did I tell you about the zebras lining the driveway at San Simeon? You believed that, didn't you? Did I tell you that Lindbergh flew over Brewster? It could have been someone else, but who cares--Fake it! . . . There's only one thing in life, and that's the continual renewal of inspiration."

Images courtesy of LIFE.com

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BUY THE BOOK: Click here to purchase Let's Bring Back.

Follow Let's Bring Back on Twitter: @LetsBringBack

For publicity inquiries, please contact April Whitney at Chronicle Books: April_Whitney@chroniclebooks.com


 
 
 

Follow Lesley M. M. Blume on Twitter: www.twitter.com/lesleymmblume

 
 
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07:31 PM on 11/03/2010
Empress Elizabeth was not killed by an assassin's bullet. It was a sharpened nail file that punctured her heart. Because she was so strictly corseted she was unaware of how badly she was wounded. She walked for a few minutes then asked "What happened to me?" before dying.
03:46 PM on 11/03/2010
My fave DV story is in Power Of Style. While lunching with the ladies at Maxim's in Paris some time in the 60's I think, a cockroach fell, evidently from the ceiling into her plate. Instead of causing a scene of hysteria, she jumped and danced around the table while singing 'La Cucaracha!' Her comments about the Avedon shoot for Vogue w/ Nureyev was so DV(these were recently in Brit Vogue I think). Many of us remember (with regret) when Vogue's size was made from oversized to 'normal' magazine size- that was when DV left the editors post.
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Siren Song
Extinction is forever
07:01 AM on 11/03/2010
"Never fear being vulgar--only boring." Words to live by indeed!

Her memoir, D.V., was deeply inspiring. Truly a fascinating, larger than life woman who should never be forgotten.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Hardyman1966
The antonym of liberal is INTOLERANT.
04:18 PM on 11/02/2010
A legend worth repeating before our complete fall from grace. I don't think Anna is inherently evil, but there is definitely a different tone. I suspect she will spend her life trying to catch up to something she can't catch up with, which could explain the drive.
02:38 PM on 11/02/2010
Who?
07:59 PM on 11/01/2010
Coco Chanel? She doesn't make it to your list of fashion icons??
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
GrownupStewie
09:50 PM on 11/01/2010
im sure they are saving her for later
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
mssreader
eat, read, sleep, read and be happy
01:45 PM on 11/01/2010
V let herself age graceful with no plastic interference and though not a beautiful woman she had a presence that few men or women have. I met her once in NY at a Met do and she was gracious, elegant and yes even humble with an air or joyousness always vibrant and energetic. You just wanted to follow her around and be caught up with her energy.
02:42 PM on 11/01/2010
I'm so jealous, you met her? Wow! Nice when your not disappointed by an icon. Article feeds my curiosity to learn more about her.
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mssreader
eat, read, sleep, read and be happy
03:55 PM on 11/01/2010
There's a bio I read called "V" which is good besides the coffee table photo books. I think she always was her own true self and had a gorgeous husband!

May I be your first fan for appreciating an icon.
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tiredofyou2
11:45 PM on 11/01/2010
Yes! What charisma to age with out-going style unashamed of your real face Powerful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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mssreader
eat, read, sleep, read and be happy
01:02 AM on 11/02/2010
tiredofyou, and it was her real face that made her the icon she is. What a fabulous nose and her facial features so outstanding. She was marvelously thin and tall and had such style. What presence she had and so sure of herself.
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WillCooney
Democrat dagnabit! Now leave me alone!
01:07 PM on 11/01/2010
"Pink is the navy blue of India." A statement by DV that never ceases to amaze and amuse me. I think Vogue was at its best under DV because she challenged designers to do something new.
01:07 PM on 11/01/2010
She was awesome. She had an impeccable taste and was critical of fashion without the bitchiness of Nuclear Wintour.
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naschkatze
A free man creates himself.
12:36 PM on 11/01/2010
The best years of Vogue were the Diana Vreeland years.
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mssreader
eat, read, sleep, read and be happy
03:55 PM on 11/01/2010
I do agree wholeheartedly. I see I'm already a fan so can't fan you again.
HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
theredqueen
True friends stab you in the front. Oscar Wilde
11:57 AM on 11/01/2010
Style and wit - a hard combination to beat.
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whatdoesitake
11:44 AM on 11/01/2010
Love it! Diana Vreeland just became a hero of mine. Look forward to the book.! thanks.
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mssreader
eat, read, sleep, read and be happy
03:56 PM on 11/01/2010
whatdoesittake, have you read V? Great bio.
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whatdoesitake
06:03 PM on 11/01/2010
I will now! Thanks!
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Jced
I'd love to kiss ya...but, I just washed my hair!!
11:20 AM on 11/01/2010
Amazing Life!
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mssreader
eat, read, sleep, read and be happy
01:46 PM on 11/01/2010
JceD, oh to even have lived 1/2 of her life experiences would be divine.
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Jced
I'd love to kiss ya...but, I just washed my hair!!
03:52 PM on 11/01/2010
That's the truth, some alot of people have that certain something...the tricky part is knowing just when and how to use it.... What a Life!!!
HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
JScott
John Galt's last name is McGuffin-Smithee
10:44 AM on 11/01/2010
• Sat in the rafters at King George's coronation;
• Befriended "Buffalo" Bill Cody on a childhood excursion to Wyoming;
• Witnessed the Lindbergh flight while sitting on her suburban lawn with her husband's bootlegger;
• Sat with Josephine Baker and her diamond-collared cheetah in the balconies of a Paris movie house;
• Gotten into a fistfight of sorts with über-agent Swifty Lazar at a dinner party given by the Oscar de la Rentas.


So did she know 'Monterey Jack' personally?
09:06 AM on 11/01/2010
I don't mean to be rude but I have always said that Sarah Jessica Parker should play Diana Vreeland in a movie. It would be an easy transition from her fashion icon status from Sex and the City.
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Brian Gorrell
Is this the 1950's or what?
11:38 AM on 11/01/2010
Agreed.
Vreeland is a Goddess.
So SJP would be acting!