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Lesley M. M. Blume

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ICONS OF STYLE SERIES: Screen Siren Marlene Dietrich (PHOTOS)

Posted: 10/23/2010 9:00 am

*Scroll down for the full slideshow of images

In 2007, we launched on this site a column called Lets' Bring Back -- which has, over the past three years, celebrated hundreds of forgotten-yet-delightful fashions, pastimes, objects, and personalities.

On November 1, 2010, Let's Bring Back will make its debut as a book -- and in honor of its release, the Huffington Post's Style section will spotlight ten historical style icons featured in the book's pages.

2010-10-15-LBBcover.jpg

Over the next ten days, you will become reacquainted with some of the twentieth century's seminal tastemakers, designers, and muses -- many of whom are now unjustly fading from public memory. Once you've spent some time with them, you'll agree that each of these women deserves to remain in the limelight.

After all, fashion is fleeting, but true style glimmers forever.

Our first ICON OF STYLE profile on performer Josephine Baker created quite a splash last weekend, and earlier this week, many of you "met"brilliant hat designer Lilly Daché, our second ICON OF STYLE subject. Our third subject, Surrealist designer Elsa Schiaparelli, was once as dominant in the fashion industry as her then-rival Coco Chanel.

Today's subject, actress Marlene Dietrich, is one of my personal heroines. The epitome of Old Hollywood glamour, Dietrich also exuded sex appeal - and yet never veered into crassness. Mystery and subtext were Dietrich's forms of currency; today's bare-all stars could take a lesson or two from her.

Read on, and make sure to see the slideshow below.


The following excerpt is from Let's Bring Back (Chronicle Books, November 1):

MARLENE DIETRICH (1901 - 1992)

When Marlene Dietrich died at age 90, the headline of her New York Times obituary decreed her a "Symbol of Glamour."

"Dietrich artfully projected cool sophistication, self-mockery, and infinite experience," said the article. "Her sexuality was audacious, her wit was insolent and her manner was ageless. With a world-weary charm and a diaphanous gown showing off her celebrated legs, she was the quintessential cabaret entertainer of Weimar-era Germany."

Dietrich's infamous role as Lola-Lola in iconic German film The Blue Angel (1930) made her an international star. Yet she shed none of her risqué sexiness as she became a household name: rather, she brought it along with her, and helped pioneer Victor-Victoria chic, often donning tails and a top hat in her films and on stage.

"She has sex but no positive gender," critic Kenneth Tynan once wrote. "Her masculinity appeals to women and her sexuality to men."

Yet Dietrich's bravest and most defining moments had little to do with shimmering costumes or red carpet posturing. When the Nazis rose to power in her native Germany, Dietrich became an early and outspoken opponent of Nazism. Hitler reportedly offered her a "blank check" to return to Berlin and reign as an icon of German cinema. When she rejected the offer and applied for American citizenship, her films were banned in Germany.

She officially became an American in 1939, and during World War II entertained half a million Allied troops and war prisoners across North Africa and Western Europe. The United States eventually awarded her the Medal of Freedom.

All of these facts are well-known. What is less-known about Dietrich is that she was also a wonderful, witty, sage writer. In 1962, she published a now-forgotten book called Marlene Dietrich's ABC. In this tome, Dietrich offers her thoughts on a wide array of topics, from the best recipe for beef broth (her personal variety was served with gusto to her many paramours) to the meaning of true love.

What follows are some of the loveliest excerpts, which reveal a woman who was at once the emblem of glamour and the most humble of mensches.

ON TENDERNESS
"Tenderness is greater proof of love than the most passionate of vows."

ON BEST-DRESSED LISTS
"Best Dressed list[s are] reserved for the rich, those who can afford to buy from the great designers, who have time for endless fittings, and then can be seen wearing these creations in the right surroundings."

ON BOOKS
"You do not love a book necessarily because it teaches you something. You love it because you find affirmation of your thoughts or sanctions."

ON FASHION
"Don't follow it blindly into every dark alley. Always remember that you are not a model or mannequin for which the fashion is created."

ON GRUMBLING
"Grumbling is the death of love."

ON HAPPINESS
"I do not think that we have a 'right' to happiness. If happiness happens, say thanks."

1933
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BUY THE BOOK: Click here to purchase Let's Bring Back.

Follow Let's Bring Back on Twitter: @LetsBringBack

For publicity inquiries, please contact April Whitney at Chronicle Books: April_Whitney@chroniclebooks.com


 
 
 

Follow Lesley M. M. Blume on Twitter: www.twitter.com/lesleymmblume

 
 
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11:40 AM on 10/25/2010
Madalein Kahn's whole "I'm Tired" song in the classic movie Blazing Saddles is her take-off on Marlene. That song made that movie!
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lotusgirl
Turned off the TV and stepped out of the Matrix
09:50 AM on 10/25/2010
Not a classic beauty, but a real style maven! That lady can pose her "assets" off! I love her style and confidence.
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muhltrayne
change is the only constant in the universe
10:35 PM on 10/24/2010
I loved that Marlene entertained the troops during WWII...she often was so close to the front, it was rumored she entertained German troops as well as the Americans and Brits. She stayed so close to the front (with the "help" of Gen. Mark Clark) in order to rescue her mother and sister...trapped in Berlin. Even if the story isn't true, I could see her pulling it off.
The two musical numbers she does in A Foriegn Affair are amazing...
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Steamboater
Forget hope. Agitate.
12:33 AM on 10/25/2010
Dietrch would have never entertained german troops and Hitler would have had her swiftly taken away and shot if she did.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
astraia
Romney: NONE & DONE!
10:25 PM on 10/24/2010
"Tenderness is greater proof of love than the most passionate of vows."

a beautiful sentiment. she was an extraordinary woman.
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LMPE
I connect the most dissimilar things
05:37 PM on 10/24/2010
I can't think of Marlene Dietrich without thinking of the time on SNL when Madeline Kahn hosted and played MD in one sketch with Gilda Radner as Baba Wawa interviewing her.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Jced
I'd love to kiss ya...but, I just washed my hair!!
10:22 AM on 10/24/2010
Crawford? Every inch the Star! "because it's expected of me", I love that quote!
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Jced
I'd love to kiss ya...but, I just washed my hair!!
10:20 AM on 10/24/2010
I wonder who the next subject will be in this series? Any thoughts? Let's hear!!!
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Steamboater
Forget hope. Agitate.
12:17 PM on 10/24/2010
Hmmm..Jackie Kennedy ... Cary Grant ... Katherine Hepburn and yes, Mommie Dearest herself.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Jced
I'd love to kiss ya...but, I just washed my hair!!
02:45 PM on 10/24/2010
Thumbs up to all of those...and Jean Harlow and Garbo!
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
madisonhack
I prefer not to......
09:22 AM on 10/24/2010
The man directly behind Dietrich in photo 20 looks like Joe Kennedy.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
ThunderclapNewman
There's Something In the Air
08:54 AM on 10/24/2010
My favorite quote from La Dietrich:

"At heart, I am a man."

She said this in the 30s, when her allure was at its apex.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Jackie228
08:23 AM on 10/24/2010
I am loving this series. It doesn't get any better than Josephine Baker and Marlene Dietrich. Also I find it fascinating how the evening gowns from the 30s were often more form fitting and revealing than those from the 40s & 40s.
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Jackie228
08:25 AM on 10/24/2010
I meant 40s & 50s
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Steamboater
Forget hope. Agitate.
09:29 AM on 10/24/2010
Jean Harlow would agree.
08:05 AM on 10/24/2010
Marlene Dietrich was "the kind they don't make any more." Besides glamour, she had heart. She didn't have to go touring for the USO, but she did. A friend of mine was a young soldier wounded by shrapnel in Italy in 1943, and he remembers her touring with Orson Welles. She first appeared in military fatigues, fresh-faced and saying simply, "Hello," and went on to play the musical saw, sing, and help Welles in his magic act. She spoke to GIs, wounded French soldiers, and even POWs in their own languages.

She managed to be at the center of every major group of artists--and keep her shows fresh with new talent as her opening act. In 1961, she used the Beatles!

Thank Heavens for film and recording. I think new generations can discover how very special Marlene Dietrich was.
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LeftLeanWing
Ah.. I said..Ah Said I said... Proceed Guv'nah
11:01 AM on 10/24/2010
Angelina Jolie, perhaps ?
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Steamboater
Forget hope. Agitate.
03:55 PM on 10/24/2010
Too current.
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Kitten Kramer
America has lost the dream a long time ago
01:55 AM on 10/25/2010
Hollywood stars as they like to call themselves today, sure could learn a lesson from this great actress. She was way ahead of her time and I truely enjoy her films even today.
04:42 AM on 10/24/2010
Marlene is a
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HUFFPOST SUPER USER
Steamboater
Forget hope. Agitate.
02:56 AM on 10/24/2010
Her daughter, Maria Riva presents a mixed picture of her mother, one of a woman self-obsessed and there's a lot of resentment there too, however there's also a great love for her mother and an honesty about her mother's brilliance at image-making and sustaining it. Dietrich knew everyone, from Hemingway to Piaf to all the names of their time and was someone we could have used around today to show that immigrants are often more patriotic than many of the ignorants who are born here.
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whyus
San Francisco native
02:06 AM on 10/24/2010
She was supremely talented, sophisticated, brave. She sang Lily Marlene like no one else could.
whitebeach
Hey, buddy, can you spare a micro-bio?
02:02 AM on 10/24/2010
She simply had that magic. Among other things, in movies that would be completely forgotten except for her presence, it allowed her to deliver some fairly ridiculous lines with such style and authority that you never questioned them at the moment. Favorite example, from "Shanghai Express": "It took more than one man to change my name to . . . Shanghai Lily." If you're ever stuck in an airport or waiting at the DMV or something and need a little mental entertainment, run through a list of contemporary actresses and imagine how they would handle that line.