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Lesley M. M. Blume

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ICON OF STYLE: Heiress, Activist, and Provocateur Nancy Cunard (PHOTOS)

Posted: 10/26/2010 12:56 pm

In 2007, we launched on this site a column called Lets' Bring Back -- which has, over the past three years, celebrated hundreds of forgotten-yet-delightful fashions, pastimes, objects, and personalities.

On November 1, 2010, Let's Bring Back will make its debut as a book -- and in honor of its release, the Huffington Post's Style section will spotlight ten historical style icons featured in the book's pages.

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Many of these tastemakers, designers, and muses are now unjustly fading from public memory. Once you've spent some time with them, you'll agree that each of these women deserves to remain in the limelight.

After all, fashion is fleeting, but true style glimmers forever.

Our first ICON OF STYLE profile on performer Josephine Baker created quite a splash last weekend, and early last week, many of you "met" brilliant hat designer Lilly Daché, our second ICON OF STYLE subject. Our third subject, Surrealist designer Elsa Schiaparelli, was once as dominant in the fashion industry as her then-rival Coco Chanel. This past weekend, we celebrated screen siren and war heroine Marlene Dietrich. And yesterday, the world's first supermodel, Suzy Parker, resurfaced to dazzle the masses.

Today we pay our respects to the great Nancy Cunard, a heiress, activist, and provocateur who shunned a spoiled existence to wage war on the racist attitudes of her generation. Her silhouette remains unique and instantly recognizable even today: an exclamation point-thin frame; dark, kohl-rimmed eyes; arms invariably heavy with bracelets. Cunard truly was one of the twentieth century's great, unrepentant individualists.

Read on, and make sure to see the photos below.

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The following excerpt is from Let's Bring Back (Chronicle Books, November 1):


NANCY CUNARD (1896 - 1965)


Nancy Cunard began life as a coddled British heiress to the Cunard ship fortune; her life might have been very mannered, but instead she scandalized her family and class by becoming an outspoken writer, publisher, and political activist.

Still adored by today's history-minded fashion editors and designers, Cunard grew famous in her time for her rail-thin body and the bangles that always covered both of her arms from wrist to elbow. Her contemporaries also venerated her and she became a muse to some of the twentieth century's most distinguished writers and artists, including Wyndham Lewis, Aldous Huxley, Tristan Tzara, Ezra Pound, Louis Aragon, Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce, Constantin Brancusi, Langston Hughes, Man Ray, and William Carlos Williams.

In 1928, Cunard became romantically involved with African-American jazz musician Henry Crowder; they moved into an apartment in Harlem together, prompting outraged tabloid headlines on both sides of the Atlantic. This relationship was the first step in turning Cunard into a lifelong civil-rights activist. Her own mother's alleged reaction upon hearing the news: "Do you mean to say my daughter actually knows a Negro?"

Cunard subsequently published the pamphlet "Black Man and White Ladyship," an attack on racist attitudes. She also edited Negro: An Anthology, collecting poetry, fiction, and nonfiction primarily by African-American writers, including the now-iconic literary giants Langston Hughes, William Carlos Williams, Samuel Beckett, and Zora Neale Hurston.

She had her gentle, romantic moments as well. One of my favorite quieter anecdotes about Cunard describes her late in her life, standing on a palazzo balcony in Venice, the site of once wildly decadent fin de siècle and Roaring Twenties parties:

Nancy, in a black satin gown and her signature "barbaric jewelry" and forehead bandeau, had been suddenly overcome by a vision of the past. She poured a glass of champagne into the Grand Canal--a "libation" for her former beloved: "For Henry," she said in a soft voice.

(Quote excerpted from the 2007 biography Nancy Cunard: Heiress, Muse, Political Idealist by Lois Gordon)

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1932: Poet, publisher rebel and activist Nancy Cunard in Harlem, New York, with artist John Banting (1902 - 1972) and novelist Taylor Gordon (1893 - 1971, right). She is known to have taken an active stand against racial segregation in America. (Caption and photo courtesy of LIFE.com)


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BUY THE BOOK: Click here to purchase Let's Bring Back.

Follow Let's Bring Back on Twitter: @LetsBringBack

For publicity inquiries, please contact April Whitney at Chronicle Books: April_Whitney@chroniclebooks.com


 
 
 

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Siren Song
Extinction is forever
06:33 AM on 11/03/2010
I read about her many years ago, and was very impressed by her style and passion. Truly an original.

Another great choice, Lesley!
02:52 AM on 10/27/2010
If you´re talking about Nancy then you are of my type..
It is good from HuffPost to hear about this early activist young lady..
GripeVine & Donah..//
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inthedesert
Those who never question will fall for anything.
07:34 PM on 10/26/2010
Has their ever been a big screen movie about her life? Not a made-for-TV thing.
08:32 PM on 10/26/2010
How about Maggie Gyllenhaal portraying her?
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inthedesert
Those who never question will fall for anything.
07:32 PM on 10/26/2010
Yes, she was a very interesting person for her day....most unusual. I read a biography of her last year and it was fascinating..she was way ahead of her time.
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afrodesia
05:36 PM on 10/26/2010
Wow! Great historical find. Thanks Ms. Blume.
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Anna JD
Special Effects Photographer, Newbie Author
02:36 PM on 10/26/2010
Leslie Blume, thank you so much for this one here. We walk through a life with many, many unseen treasures and you have unearthed a real, true beautiful one in this article regarding Nancy Cunard. Many years ago I tempted only briefly for this company and was told, I could not eat lunch at my desk. I was told "everyone else can but you can't." Because I was not on staff? Because I was African American? I don't remember the discussion going any further however, I called my agency the next day and said I would not be going back. I am sure I told them why. At that time, many years ago, Cunard offered the highest hourly rate I had earned as a temp, and so your article here holds an interesting significance, in light of my experience with Cunard. It offers up a bit of pleasure now, so many years after, I felt obliged to end my temporary relationship with Cunard. Be that as it may, what a wonderful woman of the world, Nancy Cunard, full of courage and all the things we can admire and be inspired by no matter what class we fall in or if we are in a class alone, beyond class category. You've pulled up a gem for me and I would like to thank you so much. I enjoyed meeting this wonderful, iconic woman. Thank you.
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Lesley M. M. Blume
06:11 PM on 10/26/2010
My pleasure! Nancy Cunard was a fascinating, complex, and inspiring woman. Not always a happy person, but regardless an emblem of determination, style, and integrity.
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Thisbeautifulplanet
omnia vincit amor
01:06 PM on 10/26/2010
A true, inspiring lady with ethics whose internal beauty showed on the outside. See the daring look, the feline attitude, the quiet elegance.
12:31 PM on 10/26/2010
I love how back then you could scandalize your family by "becoming an outspoken writer, publisher, and political activist". I don't think I could have been alive in those days.
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WillCooney
Democrat dagnabit! Now leave me alone!
12:23 PM on 10/26/2010
The most iconic photo of Nancy Cunard is the one done by Man Ray. Google it and you'll see what I mean.
12:57 PM on 10/30/2010
Wow you you were right!!!! I liked it
12:22 PM on 10/26/2010
Damn, man!

This woman ruled!
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12:04 PM on 10/26/2010
Anything about Cunard is ALWAYS interesting.
11:08 AM on 10/26/2010
These articles are wonderful. As a child I recall my mother being a subscriber to all of the magazines of the day. I didn't learn to read in school, "LIFE" magazine was the teacher (pictures and words coincided) and many of these beautiful women were often featured. Marlene Dietrich, Gloria Swanson et al. To own anything designed by Schiaparelli was to be noticed. These articles are so much fun, many thanks HuffPo.
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theredqueen
True friends stab you in the front. Oscar Wilde
10:41 AM on 10/26/2010
Smart, elegant and her "own woman" - a terrific lady.
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wolfiegirl
Princess Wolfie
09:06 AM on 10/26/2010
Great information on someone well ahead of her time. You go, Nancy!

P.S. I can just her the proper British mother uttering that sentence :)
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Nicole Dixson
10:15 AM on 10/26/2010
Just imagining her mother's voice in my head makes me laugh!! Great story!
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12:09 PM on 10/26/2010
While a hysterical line and image, so agree, the reality is that Lady Cunard had probably never seen an African in her life.

Her absolute horror would have been at her daughter living with an American of the working class, his skin color would have only been a fascinating detail.