More

Featuring fresh takes and real-time analysis from HuffPost's signature lineup of contributors
Lev Raphael

GET UPDATES FROM Lev Raphael
 

Traveling in Germany Can Have its Quirks

Posted: 11/22/11 08:02 AM ET

I've just returned from an eight-event reading tour in Germany for my memoir My Germany, and I had a great time once again. I love the serious book culture that exists in Germany and how authors are respected as cultural figures. I love the comfortable trains and the train stations with good food, great bookstores and cheerful-looking flower shops.

But certain things about traveling in Germany are quirky, and that's actually a good thing, because a book tour can be exhausting, and without a sense of humor, you can really get worn down.

Those same great trains and train stations are a consistent source of amusement. No matter where I am or what train I'm on, even though an announcement might be delivered in German and English, the speaker always leaves out important content in English. The German announcement will apologize for a train being late in German but that won't be repeated in English, and forget hearing anything about connections or even whether there's a bistro or restaurant on the train. Without knowing German, you can miss a lot, and let's face it, plenty of foreigners travel on Die Bahn.

Hotels of all sorts there are a puzzle. Why are German beds so low to the ground? This isn't a country prone to earthquakes -- they really don't have to fear falling out bed, do they? And what's with German pillows? They're mostly as soft as rags, which is why the hotel staff can arrange them in pretty shapes on the bed. Usually I need a handful of them to make for a somewhat restful sleep, or the hope of one.

The beds are low but the showers are high. You almost always have to step up into the shower or bath tub which admittedly isn't a big deal. But the dismount can be tricky when you're all wet. And why are German toilets high, too? Are you supposed to be having elevated, philosophical thoughts on the throne because you're in the land of Goethe?

Maybe so. Let's face it, Germany is Goethe crazy. Last week week I ate at a Heidelberg restaurant he mentioned in one of his journals, and the restaurant noted in its PR and in a mural on its wall that he almost slept at the inn there way back when. Almost.

Even Germans make fun of their Goethe worship. In the university town of Tübingen, there's a plaque indicating that Goethe puked there.

What's even funnier is that plenty of American tourists don't realize it's a joke.

 
 
 

Follow Lev Raphael on Twitter: www.twitter.com/LevRaphael

 
 
  • Comments
  • 13
  • Pending Comments
  • 0
  • View FAQ
Comments are closed for this entry
View All
Recency  | 
Popularity
06:02 PM on 12/15/2011
Thanks, Lev, I just stumbled over your memories and as a german I must say: Yep, that's us! ;). The next time in a hotel, just ask for another kind of pillows or take a look in the wardrobe where they're often hidden. Also you can ask the crew on the ICE if they might wake you up at a certain time or before the arrival to a certain station usually they do that. Last but not least the toilets: I'm 2,03m tall and really (!) appreciate the high throne ´:D
So thanks for the nice short insight in your view and I hope this wasn't your last visit to my beloved country. :)
08:57 PM on 11/26/2011
The train stops are sometimes not announced. It's assumed that the train will arrive at a station on time and all one needs to do is note the time. That's great unless you've nodded off and wake up later to find out that you've slept through your stop. The pillows do suck! Otherwise, just to experience the efficiency is as awe-inspiring as a castle or a cathedral. But, not as awe-inspiring as nude sunbathers (and attractive ones at that) in a city park.
photo
HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Lev Raphael
Author of "Book Lust!"
09:54 PM on 11/26/2011
Interesting! In five trips to Germany I haven't been on one train--ICE, IC, R--where the stop wasn't announced. All my German friends tell me the trains aren't consistently on time the way they used to be, and I've noticed that, too. But who cares? They're so much nicer than the average train in the U.S.
07:35 PM on 11/28/2011
My trips were mostly in the 90s with the last one in 2001. Perhaps train stop announcements are more common now. On my first trip, I was supposed to change trains in Offenburg to go to Paris via Strasbourg. I slept through the stop. (Darn comfortable compartments!) I wound up in Freiburg in the Black Forest. Since I had a Eurail Pass, I just walked across the platform and waited for the next train north back to Offenburg. It worked out, although I arrived in Paris later than I had scheduled.

On a different subject, I was taken aback at first by German "bluntness". Then I was amused. Eventually, I sort of liked the "honesty" or avoided asking questions like, "What do you think of this T-shirt that I just bought?"

I do miss Germany and Europe.
photo
LostDemocracy
Equality in Opportunity, NOT in outcome
10:59 AM on 11/26/2011
Maybe, but it is a fun country to visit.
photo
HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Lev Raphael
Author of "Book Lust!"
11:42 AM on 11/26/2011
I never said it wasn't. I've been there five times and look forward to going back.
08:10 PM on 11/22/2011
This is a great post, Lev! I soooo appreciate it. Germany is indeed a wonderfuly, quirky place. Cheers to you for this Thanksgiving. :)
photo
HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Lev Raphael
Author of "Book Lust!"
06:11 AM on 11/23/2011
Thanks for stopping by!
HUFFPOST COMMUNITY MODERATOR
JScott
John Galt's last name is McGuffin-Smithee
06:24 PM on 11/22/2011
Oh and don't forget no screens on the windows. Interesting even in Spain at the Holiday Inn Express there was a note on the window in english that essentially said if you don't want bugs flying in close the window.
photo
HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Lev Raphael
Author of "Book Lust!"
07:58 PM on 11/22/2011
:-) I never opened a window in Germany since it was November.
10:27 AM on 11/22/2011
Thanks, Lev, for sharing with us some of Germany's quirky side. You brought back memories of my time living there. It's all true!
photo
HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Lev Raphael
Author of "Book Lust!"
11:06 AM on 11/22/2011
I'm glad it was fun for you. Happy Thanksgiving!