I have just traveled half way around the world for a 3½-day visit with my sister and her family. And though I long to travel to all the places between the Galilee and New York City, there was no time for a stop over.
What to pack? Aside from a few gifts, a couple of iconic American treats (oreo cookies and yodels), PJ's and running clothes, I couldn't get a fix on the weather. Not the heat of the summer but early winter with the promise of rain - sort of confusing, so I packed light and figured sisters can always share clothing. Besides, an empty suitcase also meant more room for new treasures to bring home (local food - what else?)
It was a smooth touchdown through a cloudy sky. In fact, it had poured most of the day - after a week of unseasonably warm and sunny days. I love the sun, but know enough to recognize the importance of rain. (This being the Holy Land, however, my prayers were answered and there was a small break in the rain on Saturday, allowing for limited sun worship.)
Several millimeters of rain have fallen in the north of Israel since the start of winter 2009. The largest body of fresh water - the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee) is at a record low. I imagine I can safely say that the demand for water is at a record high. This is a place of quick showers and not the place to let the water run while brushing teeth.
Clothing is routinely hung on clotheslines (conserving energy) and dishwashing is truly an art; how to wash pots, pans and dishes while utilizing a minimal amount of water.
My sister, Miriam, has 5 children ranging in ages from 14 - 27. It has been several months since they were all home for a weekend - but here they were, 2 with new wive. I arrived at their hilltop home, dropped my stuff and Yehudah immediately chauffeured me to the local supermarket - one of my favorite neighborhood places 30 minutes away.
The market is always an accurate barometer of growing season - some last luscious and very ripe figs, attractive tomatoes from a greenhouse without deep flavor, root veggies, early citrus, delicious apples, nice herbs and greens...and not a single asparagus, pineapple or peach in sight.
The dairy section revealed an entirely new (to me) selection of sheep and goat milk cheese - many organic, goat's milk yogurt and other artisanal products. All items in the dairy case were local - no imported yogurts.
I was warned DO NOT TO BUY TOO MUCH, so home we went and into the kitchen. My sister is a wonderful cook and graciously allowed me to add to the weekend menu. There were lots of veggies to cut up and we made 'compost' soup stock with all the trimmings. Some lamb, pot roast, salmon and lots of salads kept me busy till 2 in the morning. Miriam did the chicken dishes and chicken soup. Yael, recently married to Eytan, brought some outstanding eggplant dishes. (I have requested the recipes.) My sister is an incredible baker and baked amazing whole wheat Challah and dozens of small rolls. Cakes, cookies continuously appeared out of nowhere and were devoured the way I would eat apple slices. For me to bake a single cake is such a special event, I am humbled by her skills with sweets.
Two thoughts kept going through my head over the weekend. How wonderful it was to have a family weekend; time with my nieces and nephews who I treasure and with my sister and her husband who I love. We sat, talk, sang, ate, laughed, slept, ate and ate some more. This hilltop village - a million miles from civilization (though they don't think so - it is a small country and only a few hours to a cosmopolitan city!)
We made the usual rounds to see local fields and farm stands. The ground was drenched, thick and clay-like and at the end of each day, it was a job to take the dried earth off my sneakers.
And the rain, heavy at times with full light and sound show, also made me stop and appreciate nature's gift. This region is intensely desperate for rain and there was just no question of how truly awesome the weather was. We wanted to sleep in to the sound of the raindrops. And in the breaks in the weather, everyone went outside to appreciate the rain swept landscape and the change of season from summer to winter.
Simple and sweet - an entire family gathered in a remote corner of the world, in the onset of rainy season, to enjoy being together, share conversations, cook and eat, pause and reflect, live and love.
