The reservation is hard to get, but that is because the people behind NY's elegant outpost of the London restaurant Le Caprice at the newly renovated Pierre Hotel know how to properly run a restaurant. They decided to limit the reservations for the first three months so they could get their feet on the ground. Frankly, Marco Fazzina, the captain of the ship, has smoothly steered this beautiful new restaurant through the rough waters of New York City so that each and every time I have dined there, from the first week back in October to the present, the food and the service has been exceptional. The well dressed and charming Allan Basaran, the former Maitre d' of the over-priced Madison Avenue restaurant Nello's, is thankfully now at Le Caprice where he meticulously choreographs each days seating chart and handles with grace anything that may occur.
The debonair Richard Caring who along with Le Caprice owns some of London's best including The Ivy, Annabel's, Cecconi's and the Soho House. Cecconi's coincidentally opened a branch in the former home of my brother's restaurant Mortons in Los Angeles. It is apparent that Caring has a true passion for the world of restaurants. I see it through the eyes of his dedicated and very loyal employees some who came over from London to open both Cecconi's and Le Caprice.
Le Caprice, the favorite haunt of the late Princess Diana, was originally opened in London in 1947 by Mario Gallati, a former Maitre d' of London's The Ivy in the theater district. It went through many changes but the contemporary black and white decor, David Bailey photographs and long bar remain. The New York restaurant was designed with flair by the talented Martin Brudnizki. Among his other accomplishments in the restaurant world are Scotts, J Skeekey Oyster Bar, and the club at The Ivy. I walked in before the doors were officially open, accompanied by one of New York's great interior designers, Sam Blount, and the first words out of his mouth were, "this place is drop dead gorgeous!"
Wouldn't it figure that the first person to take over this stylish and ready for it's close-up restaurant was Anna Wintour, the Queen of chic and Editor in Chief of Vogue magazine. Following in her foot steps through the revolving doors, Brits Alan Cummings and Sienna Miller, Jennifer Lopez, fashion designer Oscar de la Renta, and many other bold faced names.
The restaurant is open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and brunch on Sunday where you will find roast rib of beef and yorkshire pudding on the menu. I haven't yet tried breakfast because I am not an early morning person. Although I am tempted to roll out of bed or at least stay out all night to come in and try the "Le Caprice Breakfast," which is a traditional English breakfast plate of eggs any style served with pork sausage, bacon, black pudding, grilled tomato and portabello mushrooms.
The menu for lunch and dinner is similar to the original in London with some additions and a few subtractions. The aromatic Thai-baked sea bass with fragrant basmati rice made the trip overseas as did the salmon fishcake with buttered spinach and sorrel sauce, and fish and chips, the latter being a favorite of mine as well as my friends. It is light, crunchy and served with English minted pea puree and a tartar sauce made for French fry dipping. On the dessert menu, the Scandinavian iced berries with hot white chocolate, a popular item in London, relocated for it's American audience.
Some of my other favorites are the tomato and basil galette with buffalo mozzarella, the lobster, avocado and baby gem salad, the wild mushroom risotto which they have managed to perfectly cook every time I tried it, and the grilled veal chop with sauteed chanterelles and cipolini onions.
All the desserts are worth trying but don't miss the berries and the bramley apple pie. Bravo to chef Michael Hartnell!
The wine list has some terrific French burgundies and I was surprised to find some hard to get California wines like the Peter Michael Winery's 'Belle Cote' Chardonnay. They also have some lovely wines and champagnes by the glass.
If you can't manage to get a table, I strongly suggest eating at the sleek, long black bar. Each place setting is lit by its own lamp and you will eat off elegant white linen place mats and napkins. The bartenders are warm and friendly so service is of course not a problem. You also have the best view of the restaurant and who comes and goes. I personally love eating at the bars of restaurants because you never know who you may meet.
There is a piano player in the evenings, so drop by for a drink and check it out.
Le Caprice is located at The Pierre Hotel
795 Fifth Ave
212 940-8195