Elaine's in New York. La Coupole in Paris. The Pump Room in Chicago. What does it take to be an institution? In business school, I was taught that you never move forward with the business that you want. You move forward with the business for which there is demand.
I am not here to tell anyone what proportions of vermouth to have, or whether you should order it shaken or not. I simply want to enlighten those of you who were born after WWII as to how it was done then.
You can rest assured this column will dispense honest and frank advice with a healthy dose of humor. Don't expect any of that Emily Post bullsh*t -- finger bowls, children curtsying and other genteel manners. Those days are gone bitches.