"No quere ... dormir," mumbles Olivia as her breathing deepens and her eyes finally stay shut. She means "no quiero dormir," "I don't want to sleep" in Spanish, but her conjugations haven't quite come in yet. I don't care. It's been an hour and a half, she's finally asleep in any language, and I tiptoe out.
Thousands of paceños line the city's beachfront as fierce Indians prance around against the eerie music of drums and flutes. A regal-looking woman stretches her arms to the sky as if reaching for the gods. Next, guys wearing metal helmets and body armor come ashore from a rowboat, and then other guys in brown robes show up to bring Christianity to the pagans.