We stared in open-faced wonder at the sea together as the sun baked its goodness into our skin. So tender. So sweet. My mind flashed to the memory of meeting this child in such a malnourished state. And here she was--healthy, happy, splashing in a piece of paradise people around the world penny pinch to see.
The wild changes in the short history of the modern surf culture are widely debated, evidenced and documented, yet little has been written about the humor of the lifestyle. As the concept of the surf film was evolving, it must be noted that laughs and comedy gags were an integral part of the new medium.
With great respect to our responsibilities, I had curtailed early the shenanigans from the night before. Unlike my friend Dave, who perked up for a swan dive at 12:30 AM into the debaucheries of Honolulu's Chinatown. Last night, he had the look of a man possessed. Surely, he would be having a difficult time at the race this morning.