Montmartre is a neighborhood which, like all tourist centers, presents a challenge to anyone hoping to eat well. We can't help you avoid the pickpockets around the Sacré-Cœur, but we can help you bypass the tourist trap eateries.
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Walk-Ins Welcome
2. Le Bal Café - A great place to take little ones who can run around in the playground across the walkway while you drink a Pimm's cup and dig into some seriously good neo-British cooking at this café/exhibition space on a quiet impasse.
3. Chéri Bibi - This flea market-decorated joint is where you'll find the cheapest prices, the most traditional French cooking, and the youngest crowd. On the east side of the hill, toward Château Rouge.
4. Miroir - A stylish bistro in the heart of Abbesses, they also run a no-reservations wine bar across the street, in case the resto is booked up.
5. Soul Kitchen - This cozy coffee shop run by the Anzel sisters has a limited menu of veggie centric dishes that change each day.
6. Le Petit Trianon - There's nothing groundbreaking about this neo-vintage café, except that some thought and effort has gone into the menu and product sourcing.
7. La Rallonge - A casual wine bar from Chef Geoffroy Maillard serving Spanish-ish small plates, just down the street from La Table d'Eugene. Don't miss the risotto--elbow noodles with a creamy truffled mushroom sauce and served in a tiny Staub casserole.
8. Le Petit Trianon - There's nothing groundbreaking about this neo-vintage café, except that some thought and effort has gone into the menu and product sourcing.
9. Le Relais Gascon - What people mean when they talk about "the big salad place." Pure sud-ouest kitsch.
10. Marcel - Join neighborhood families at this sunny corner spot for respectable Brit and American-inspired fare (fish and chips, a B.L.T.).
11. Coquelicot - One of several great bakeries on rue des Abbesses, you can take your sandwich or savory tarte sur place at this charmer.
12. Gontran Cherrier - Forget baguettes and go for Cherrier's squid-ink roll filled with gravlax, or a green arugula bun filled with seasonal vegetables. Or try one of his thin-crusted savory tarts.
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14. Le Coq Rico - Antoine Westermann's poultry-focused table gives new meaning to upscale barnyard cooking.