After a long workweek, nothing tastes better than some of my favorite foods shared with good company. It is always hard to decide which of my favorite foods to eat: Mexican or Italian. Growing up in California I became addicted to authentic Mexican cuisine, but also cannot resist classic Italian cooking.
Detroit's El Barzon offers the rare combination of authentic Mexican and classical Italian all in one location. From the outside El Barzon looks like a neighborhood restaurant, yet when you walk in, you immediately notice the exposed brick walls, white tablecloths, and a unique fusion between Mexican and Italian inspired décor.
On the drive into southwest Detroit, I contemplated how this flavor combination was going to work. Was I going to eat taco-flavored lasagna? I was proved sorely wrong as soon as I opened the menu. Norberto Garita, owner and head chef, has proven that these two cuisines can work side by side on one menu as he has created the perfect blend between his heritage and training.
Chef Garita, a Mexico native, learned and perfected his Italian techniques alongside Gianni Belsito at Il Posto in Southfield for eight years. When Il Posto closed he decided to create El Barzon with the help of his wife and brother. One of the things that he prides himself on is the diligent training of his staff. Our water glasses were kept full and we received individual attention worthy of a five-star restaurant.
Upon being seated we were greeted by a basket of warm chips and two different types of salsa: a red salsa, for those who favor hot and spicy, and a green salsa for folks who enjoy milder tastes. The chips and salsa were addictive but we needed to save room for other delicious bites.
After choosing the perfect wine from the global and hand selected wine list, we were presented with a combination of Italian and Mexican appetizers. First, bis pasta, which was a mix between strozzapreti norcina and cavatelli alla boscaiola. The strozzapreti norcina was tasty twisted pasta served with a ragu of Italian sausage. The sauce was light yet creamy and complimented the texture of the tubular pasta perfectly. The cavatelli alla boscaiola was another homemade pasta, tossed in white cream sauce with mushrooms. This pasta was, "savory, creamy, goodness."
The last appetizer, chiles rellenos, held true to traditional south of the border flavor with a succulent mild roasted pepper, stuffed with melted cheese then topped with tomato sauce and another helping of cheese. This sampling of appetizers was a true example of how a Mexican and Italian combination can really work.
After some good laughs and conversation we received our main courses. All smelling deliciously fragrant and looking excellent upon presentation, the four of us decided to share our dishes with one another. The zupps de pesce was an Italian soup with a mix of shrimp and clams topped with a fresh tomato broth. At the bottom was another helping of perfectly al dente pasta.
However, it was the crispy garlic crostini edging the bowl that made the perfect accompaniment. Another dish we shared were the camarones a la diabla. It was a hot and spicy Mexican shrimp dish served with fresh warm tortillas, rice, and a side of beans. We also sampled two very traditional veal dishes.
Veal scaloppini alla limone was a traditional veal scaloppini in a lemon sauce that tasted as if it came right from Italia. The second, veal costolette de citello alla Milanese was hearty and flavorful. It was pounded flat, bone in, lightly breaded and accented with chopped arugula, basil and fresh tomatoes.
Even though we were stuffed to the brim from the huge portions and delicious quality, we had to indulge. The desert menu came out on a tray, as one would picture at an old school classical restaurant. With over six options to choose from, including a homemade tres leche cake, we decided on cheesecake and tiramisu. The dishes were both beautifully plated, moist and good to the last crumb.
El Barzon can pride itself on its white tablecloth service and its unique combination of expertly prepared Mexican and Italian cuisines. Whether you live in the suburbs or in the city limits, this restaurant is worth the experience.
A special thank you to Andrew Garon and Jen and Jarrett Levine for accompanying me on this outstanding restaurant experience.