Arles, in the South of France, is not as rich as Avignon or as trendy as Aix-en-Provence. But it feels gritty and real, with a patina of life that I find very seductive. When I saw this gorgeous wall, as if awaiting a painter's attention, I asked if it was an initiative of the town or tourist board. My guide said, "No, that's just the way we like it."
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