A great thing about traveling in France (I think even more than in other countries) is how the characteristic, family-run little hotels survive. Follow me as I greet my host, Patrice, and climb the spiral staircase in my choice in downtown Avignon, Hôtel Colbert. At about $100 for a double room with breakfast, it's about half the price, double the rough edges, and double the memories of a more modern place.
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