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Vegetarian Cuisine and Culinary Education

Posted: 01/15/2012 12:15 pm


With over 35 years experience as a vegetarian chef I have, in recent years, been asked many times by aspiring culinary students to recommend a culinary school that can deliver a professional education on vegetarian cuisine. These requests are emerging as the result of its increased popularity due to healthy dining consumers, approximately 47 percent of Americans, who are trying to reduce meat consumption and will not sacrifice taste for nutrition . Combined with the upsurge in vegetarian restaurants in the U.S., culinary schools are trying to address the demand for vegetarian cuisine through their schools curriculum but have, to my knowledge, no strategic direction beyond vegetable preparation. Combined with today's chefs generally having little or no formal education in vegetarian cuisine, the mainstream food service industry is struggling to cost effectively address vegetarian cuisine on their menus with perceived value and protein innovation.

Knowing Your Customer Base

Before creating a vegetarian menu component, the chef needs to know their vegetarian customer which is a diverse consumer category. Approximately 3.2 percent of Americans are vegetarian and only .5 percent of the 3.2 percent are vegan. Within the vegan market are PETA vegetarians supporting meat analogues to wean Americans off meat, and esoteric vegetarians who will not consume meat analogues because they taste like meat. One would think that vegan is a niche market within the vegetarian market based on those stats but not so. About 30 to 50 million Americans are lactose intolerant; 27.1 million or 11.8 percent of Americans are adults diagnosed with heart disease (vegan cuisine is cholesterol free). Knowing the vegetarian customer is crucial to launching a successful menu item.

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Think Vegan And Cook With Perceived Value

While vegan is a niche market within the vegetarian niche market, logistically it covers all categories of vegetarianism, certain special diets and healthy dining consumers with one broad stroke. Focus on vegan leaving end user options for diary and eggs. Give the consumer the option. As a culinary artist, one of the major challenges chefs face is keeping a lid on their creativity. The menu item has to interface with the existing menu for efficiencies of production and inventory control. It is a constant challenge for the executive chef to balance creativity with good business sense in addressing their patrons and why it is imperative they understand both vegetarian cuisine and the disciplines of menu development to maximize their creative talent within sound culinary business practices.

Perceived value of center plate protein is important in menu development. Be it classical French or modern American cuisine, chefs continue to dance around center plate proteins, not dive into the challenge of equating it to meat. In one fine dining experience my vegan entrée was about four ounces of mushroom risotto poorly presented costing $16.95. Even a simple gremolata, normally served with ossobuco, and roasted pignoli nuts would have significantly improved the entrée. Chefs have the classical culinary skill sets but lack knowledge of the medium. Tofu, for instance, can be converted to a protein medium similar to a classical French force meat as a building block to create an entrée protein with inclusions to give it perceived value.

Addressing Culinary Education

The educational solution is integrating the vegetarian module into the school's curriculum. The skill sets for vegetarian cuisine build on the classical French skill sets currently taught in culinary schools. Even Escoffier, the Father of Modern French Cuisine, had developed a vegetarian espagnole mother sauce based on the original version. In response to the need for integrating vegetarian cuisine into culinary schools, I approached the World Association of Chefs Societies (WACS) to develop a Global "Certified Vegetarian Cook" (CVC) program and they agreed. WACS has 10 million chef members in 36 nations and are the International Gold Standard for culinary education.

The Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts with campuses in Boulder Colorado and Austin Texas www.escoffier.edu will be assisting the ANF on this project and have contracted my services to develop their Vegetarian curriculum and teach at their campuses. Their Boulder Campus will formally be WACS Certified in February 2012. The CVC will be a global educational tool supporting chefs in their quest to learn about vegetarianism, the emerging 21st century cuisine.

 
 
 

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02:40 PM on 01/17/2012
The tax should be sold as a way to create revenue to offset our growing healthcare costs especially medicare/medicaid etc. Even if the tax barely slows soda consumption, it raises the awareness of bad choices. We should also have a FAT tax on all bakery goods as well as ALL animal products including RED MEAT and dairy! I'd rather have lower personal income taxes and higher bad behavior taxes... this is the real fair tax plan that will help us pay for all the sick baby boomers about to get on medicare/medicaid.
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flootz
11:22 AM on 01/17/2012
I'm glad to read this article and that some culinary schools will be offering training in vegetarian/vegan food preparation. Over the years, I have learned to always ask about soups that would appear vegetarian from their names, only to find out they are using chicken stock as their base. Chicken is not a vegetable. I eat at home, mostly, just because I know what I am eating and know it is as it should be.
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plantbasedpunk
live from the PHX
11:57 AM on 01/16/2012
Months before going vegan, I met with several culinary schools in my city. I'm so glad I decided not to go because it would have sucked having been the oddball in the school. And I've heard bad stories about vegans in culinary school. Having to learn cuts of meat and boiling lobsters doesn't sound particularly appealing.
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Ron Pickarski
10:56 PM on 01/15/2012
I have an array of stats that are in conflict as to the percentages of vegetarians in the US. But the issue of clothing has nothing to do with vegetarianism as a cuisine. What we ingest as a cuisine has nothing to do with what we wear as textile art. The clothing issue is an esoteric issue related to vegetarianism and one for which I respect especially when it comes to animal farming for clothing or the slaughter of seals simply for their fur.
01:52 AM on 01/16/2012
Ron, I mentioned clothing only as a possible reason for the difference between the number of people who follow a vegan diet and the number of people who actually identify as vegan. My main point was that the Vegetarian Times writeup - which you quoted accurately - wildly understated the number of vegans relative to vegetarians found in the study VT itself had commissioned.

As Dean Ornish and Colin Campbell continue to influence the diets of heart patients and diabetics, we can probably expect a spike in the number of people who follow a vegan diet for purely health reasons. Of course, any chef catering to the Ornish/Esselstyn followers will need to create meals that are basically oil-free, even to the point of avoiding nuts. That sounds far more daunting than cooking without eggs and dairy, which is hard enough.
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Halsey
"There is a price to pay for speaking the truth. T
07:36 PM on 01/15/2012
I am not a chef; don't have the gift but am pleased to see that 2 campuses here in the US will have certified vegetarian(and vegan) degrees. My new roommate is Cordon Bleu trained but has been a vegan for years! I look forward to eating her leftovers!
02:06 PM on 01/15/2012
Ron Pickarsky is right that chefs who wish to accommodate vegetarians should learn to prepare vegan dishes, despite his being wrong about the numbers from that Vegetarian Times study. That study found that .5 percent of the overall population, not the vegetarian population, identified as vegan. Most likely this happened because the Vegetarian Times website itself stated the results wrong in its own article about the 2008 study:

"The just-released “Vegetarianism in America” study, published by Vegetarian Times (vegetariantimes.com), shows that 3.2 percent of U.S. adults, or 7.3 million people, follow a vegetarian-based diet. Approximately 0.5 percent, or 1 million, of those are vegans, who consume no animal products at all. "

One million is not .5 percent of the 7.3 million vegetarians. It is more like 14 percent, and that 14 percent figure leaves out a lot of "strict vegetarians" who don't eat animal products but don't identify as vegan, often because they do use animal products like leather, silk and wool. According to more recent studies -- which don't ask how the person identifies but do ask which foods the person never eats -- nearly half of vegetarians follow a vegan diet. Plus, the study doesn't go into how many vegetarians follow a MOSTLY vegan diet. It is very common for a vegetarian to eat as a vegan at home and as a vegetarian when dining out, but the VT study doesn't get down to that level of specificity.