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Women and Fashion: What Your Shoes Really Say About You

Posted: 08/10/2012 1:40 pm

I confess: I love shoes. specially when they're high. Until they wore out, my go-to faves were a pair of black leather ankle boots with dangerously high heels. They were actually pretty comfortable, but even if they weren't, I still would have worn them cause they looked so damn good.

I'm also a feminist.

I bring this up because I often ponder the tension between feminism and fashion -- the way fashion is often framed as a silly vanity and often driven by our need to please men, rather than ourselves. The trope popped into my noggin again this weekend, after I read a piece in Sunday's New York Times that seemed to imply that women could be accomplished or fashionable, but rarely both.

The story cast a bemused eye on the new stylistas of Silicon Valley who were "bucking convention not only by being women in a male-dominated industry, but also by unabashedly embracing fashion." (One interviewee was the 29-year-old founder of a travel start-up who, the reporter noted, was wearing a pair of hot pink Christian Louboutins. At which point I wondered: If you can actually afford to buy Louboutins, why wouldn't you?)

Anyway, it got me to thinking: Are fashion and feminism ever compatible? Can you maintain professional cred in serious stilettos? And why, when you dress to impress, is there the assumption that who you are aiming to please is the patriarchy?

For some food for thought, I turned to a couple of smart women who are both rather stylish in their own right. The first is an expert on gender politics, Shira Tarrant, a California State University, Long Beach Women's Studies professor whose new book Fashion Talks: Undressing the Power of Style uses fashion to deconstruct the politics of race, class, gender and sexuality. When I asked if fashionistas could be taken seriously as feminists, her answer was "absolutely":

And feminists can be taken seriously as fashionistas. Feminists have a bad rap when it comes to fashion. We're accused of being frumpy, unattractively braless and inexcusably hirsute. But the fact is that feminism has always paid attention to the politics of style, and many feminists are incredibly fashionable.

Still, she says, when it comes to fashion as a lens to understanding -- and changing -- gender politics, consider the context:

We live in a patriarchal, capitalist culture. We can never completely separate our fashion choices from the social structures we live in. But that doesn't mean we're always victims of our culture, either. Fashion can be self-objectifying. At the same time, fashion can push back against a culture that keeps insisting that women hypersexualize ourselves. Fashion can be used to subvert the status quo, but the question is whether we can ever fully achieve this -- especially without more sweeping economic and political change.

We're always grappling with this tension between self-expression and self-objectification. The question is, how do we remove the gendered penalties of self-expression? Our culture still encourages women to be attractive and pleasing to men. Fashion isn't exempt from that. At the same time, fashion can be used to subvert these expectations. We can use fashion as a form of pop culture pushback.

Pushback? Fantastic! My second source, my colleague Charlotta Kratz, a lecturer in the communication department at Santa Clara University, would agree.

Through my clothes I tell people that I'm not completely what they may assume given my age or profession. For long periods of time I challenged notions of status through how I dressed. I had a pair of denim overalls that I wore in professional settings. As a recent immigrant with an accent, I used to soften my being different by dressing plainly in jeans and t-shirts. I found that when I wore my Scandinavian designer clothes, mostly black, my California students found it harder to understand me.

I don't think I dress for men. I think I dress to attract people who will "get" me. Some of those will be men with a possible sexual interest in me. I don't mind that. I like men and I like innocent everyday flirting. But, some of those people will be other heterosexual women, like my colleagues or students. For them my clothes will be signals of different kinds.

Kratz points out that we communicate through our fashion choices -- clothes, hair, bags, cars -- to become someone in social settings:

Not washing our cars is a statement. Sporting hairstyles that are carefully created to look as if we never comb our hair says something about us, too. Whoever says "I don't care about how I look" takes a lot of pride, and puts lots of effort into that particular style.

And that's it, isn't it? Fashion is simply the signals we send, the way we use artifacts like clothes and shoes to represent ourselves. As Shannon wrote back when we were in the throes of writing our book (and, ironically, clad most days in scrubs) for most of us, it's pure self-expression: Clothes, she wrote, "say something to the world about who we are. Or who we want to be perceived to be."

In other words, it's a choice: one that I think is more than compatible with feminism. We dress to please ourselves, to show the world who we are. Which leads back to that frame that won't go away, that fashion is simply a tool of the patriarchy. As for me, if pleasing men were my goal, I have failed miserably, at least with one man in my life who after decades of marriage still can't understand why I need more than three pair of shoes -- sneakers, flip flops or the moral equivalent, and dress shoes -- or why I never leave the house without lipstick.

Anyway, back to Tarrant. I asked her to describe her own particular style and what she said was this: "My sartorial style skews toward earth tones, black and grey, with a radical splash of liberation."

Done!

 
 
 

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04:56 PM on 08/22/2012
"If you can actually afford to buy Louboutins, why wouldn't you?" LOVE. So true! Great article!
01:18 PM on 08/15/2012
The style of jewelry you wear also says a lot about you!

http://www.almascrystals.com
04:22 AM on 08/14/2012
What's the point of this article?

What's the damn point?
02:01 PM on 08/13/2012
Too bad the writer did not think to ask the opinion of a podiatrist who could have told her how wearing stilettos and high heels can cripple women, can cause pain and knee and joint problems, affect the wearer’s biomechanics and increase injury risk. Numerous studies have linked high heels to osteoarthritis, joint problems, pain and the shrinking of leg muiscles.

There is a reason that men do not wear high heels or shoes that destroy their joints. Men are considered fine as they are, while women supposedly need to destroy their health and break their budgets to appear acceptable. High heels are akin to the old Chinese custom of binding the feet of women --- these are methods to keep women in an inferior and weakened condition. If you ever have to run from a rapist or murderer, you have a much better shot wearing tennis shoes than Louboutins.

Presumably if women would spend more time developing their minds and less time obsessed with fashion, clothing, shoes, hair and make-up, we might see more illustrious women inventors, scientists, creatives and leaders.

This piece screams "shallow, shallow, shallow". Duh, I can afford Louboutins or Jimmy Choos, but choose not to. I would rather help support charitable work than buy overpriced shoes that destroy the feet, arches and calves of women.
09:35 AM on 08/14/2012
If we just agree that you are so much better than the rest of us, will the preaching stop?
07:44 PM on 08/14/2012
You have the right to ruin your feet and joints and spend years in pain if you like. Do not let the findings of medical science stop you or your sophistic name-calling.
Bianca S
You can't go trick-or-treating. Ever. For a week
11:19 AM on 08/14/2012
Oh, dear.

You know what else ruins your body? Long distance running. Does that mean that any woman who runs marathons (for whatever reason) loses her f-card or are there special exemptions, like, you can be feminist if you run for breast cancer but you can't be a feminist if you run for fun because "duh", that's so "shallow"?

If man wants women to be weak and inferior than you want women to live in constant fear and bow down to your rigid rules of what it means to be a feminist. Put it this way; thanks to my also non-feminist long distance running, I can outrun a rapist in heels 10X faster than most obese, out of shape women (who are also ruining their bodies) who are wearing tennis shoes can.

Liking fashion and being charitable are not mutually exclusive qualities. I buy one pair of designer shoes a year and donate more than the equivalent to various charities. Conversely, I know plenty of women who don't buy Louboutins who also don't donate to charity period and yes, they can afford to.

Futhermore, I guess Heddy Lemarr and Michelle Obama never got the memo that you can only be an inventor or a leader if you don't wear makeup and nice clothing and that if you show even the slightest interest in such matters, you are "obsessed".
01:30 PM on 08/13/2012
Feminism is the whiny girl with the victim complex who spends her time incessantly criticizing and complaining about everything.

She will never be cool.
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10:47 AM on 08/13/2012
The dichotomy between trying one's best to appear sexy, confident and (potentially) desirable while simultaneously feeling shame that to do so is not feminist, is like watching an endless game of ping-pong between two warring sides of the same self. In reality the game has no winners -- nor are any really necessary -- just an endless stream of combatants swatting the same ball back and forth. Much of millennial feminism is entrenched in this rubber game and despite the protestations of its combatants no victors have emerged. Perhaps this is as it should be.

Funny though, if I were to suggest I could convince a woman (young or old) to apply paint and masking to her eyes, lips and face, wear devices that cause her, unnaturally, to tilt onto the balls of her feet for the purpose of jutting out her rear end and increasing, by optical illusion, the given length of her legs, and employ other devices to present (by means of girding, lifting and compressing) her mammaries for display so that others may take notice of their many varied forms, you'd probably say I was crazy.
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amazingsusan
Unleashed & Un-niched
09:00 AM on 08/13/2012
I am a feminist and fashionista with a unique style of my own. I have never followed mainstream fashion; I dress to delight myself. Still, people repeatedly and randomly tell me: "I love your 'look,'" which I call classic/funk.

I rarely wear high heels other than when I'm "dressed to kill," because I find them hard to walk in. But if high heels are who you are and you feel comfortable in them - go for it! More power to women who wear their stilettos to the C-suite :)

Before menopause 10 years ago, I eschewed colour in favour of black, navy and beige. I loved my look then. My closet is now a riot of vibrant shades heavily skewed to pinks & purples. I love my look now too! What I wear celebrates who I am; I could care less what others think of how I dress. Sure it's nice to get compliments, but I dress for ME, my comfort and my mood. I find bright colours and unusual pieces infuse me with a sense of power. I love my look to say: ATTITUDE!

More on my style here:
http://amazingwomenrock.com/heres-to-being-a-crazy-one-a-misfit-a-rebel-and-a-round-peg-in-a-square-hole

If you're into stilettos, check out the 300+ sexilicious ones in the galleries here:
http://amazingwomenrock.com/gallery/

Fashion is all about self-expression. Be an artist: paint the masterpiece of you!
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Kellybelle22
Medicine. Marriage. Motherhood.
02:06 PM on 08/12/2012
Comfortable shoes help me express my "humanism" these days. I reluctantly wear heels when we have dressy events to attend during the social season, but those events are luckily fairly infrequent. I try not to wear heels for longer than a 4-hour stretch. My favorite humanist shoes these days allow me to chase a toddler, stand on my feet for an 8-hour work shift, cook on a stone-floored kitchen for a period of hours, or break into a run or a brisk walk on a whim. Those are my Asics sneakers with added arch supports and gel heel inserts.
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09:07 PM on 08/12/2012
"Humanist Shoes" -- now there is a marketing idea! (Also see: Jesus' sandals.)
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Kellybelle22
Medicine. Marriage. Motherhood.
01:19 PM on 08/13/2012
I need me some Jesus sandals, definitely!

What I really need is a pair of sandals that feels like the inside of my sneakers. I'd wear sandals if they had more support. I keep my toenails painted and my feet ready to go nude. . . I just can't find any sandals that feel right.
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jf12
Esta vez saldré como las otras y me escaparé.
09:47 PM on 08/11/2012
I now have two pairs of good (church) shoes. I had misplaced them during a recent move, and thought they were lost, so I got another similar pair. The old ones were getting kind of old anyway, maybe over four years, wearing them well over 100 times a year. But my son found the old pair and brought them, so now I have two. And feeling wasteful and gluttonous.
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01:37 PM on 08/12/2012
Two pairs of good shoes (flat, brown or black), braless, and hirsute = yep, feminist.
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jf12
Esta vez saldré como las otras y me escaparé.
03:08 PM on 08/12/2012
After a recent day at the beach, swimming, body surfing etc in a wet sandy shirt, that night I strongly considered a couple of bandaids (and Desitin), which was as little as many women had on, but before I could make up my mind because of the hirsuteness factor, I fell asleep.

I am faced with this dilemma, don't you see? A perfectly good (for me) pair of shoes, but not worth anything even at Goodwill, and not useful for someone who has no other shoes. Bad bad shoes, e.g. clodhoppers with stains and nicks, are fine. Bad good shoes, no. But keeping them and donating the new pair is stupid, much worse than returning the new pair and donating the money. But that makes less sense than just donating the money, which leaves me with two pair still. Sigh. I suppose I'll donate the old ones, and some money, pro-rated.
11:55 AM on 08/11/2012
"At which point I wondered: If you can actually afford to buy Louboutins, why wouldn't you?)"

Because it is stupid and wasteful.
Bianca S
You can't go trick-or-treating. Ever. For a week
07:58 PM on 08/12/2012
No, not really. The average American woman spends $25 000 on shoes in a lifetime (http://www.glamour.com/fashion/blogs/slaves-to-fashion/2010/06/the-average-woman-spends-almos.html) and most of it is cheap, tacky garbage (like the Just Fab monthly shoe club). I'd much rather have 3 pairs of timeless designer shoes than 20 cheap ones.
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Dede Eagleburger
Beauty is in the eye of the makeup brush holder
03:59 PM on 08/13/2012
totally agree, I have my share of shoes of course but I don't buy anyhting that isn't the perfect fit and well made and comfortable...
09:40 PM on 08/10/2012
I LOVE my high heels, and at 5'8" I wear them as high as I can. They make me feel more confident and my legs look good. I love fashion, but I don't follow what's "popular." I follow what looks good on ME, and I use fashion to express who I am. If people think that's shallow, fine. But my brain is not shallow. I'm working towards my PhD and I know four languages. I'm a feminist, and I just like to feel confident with my manicures, pedicures, hairstyles, high heels, pencil skirts and all that. I feel like I can face the world at my very best. Not that I can't do it when I'm dressed down, but I feel like I've donned my armor when I dress to the nines! When men see me, they don't see a fashion victim; they see a woman in perfect control of herself. And that's what I enjoy about fashion.
Bianca S
You can't go trick-or-treating. Ever. For a week
08:03 PM on 08/12/2012
I'm the exact same way! I'm almost 5'6'' and I love wearing sky high heels. I also like don't very super trendy stuff, not only would I rather spend my money elsewhere but I'd rather look "good" than look "trendy".
09:01 AM on 08/13/2012
It bothers me greatly when a woman who cares to dress for herself and "be pretty" is seen as shallow and vapid.. and even worse, dumb. This is a point I often butt heads with one of my girlfriends and her husband. They know good and darn well I'm neither shallow nor vapid, we wouldn't be friends if I was, but I love "being pretty". I do it for myself. I wear what I like...not necessarily following trends unless I genuinely love the trend and it works on me (lol I loathe skinny jeans because they don't do a thing for me). It's still a sticking point between said friends & myself. I use myself as an example but there's no changing their mind. She dresses in her frumpstress finest. I can totally appreciate jeans & a tshirt since I wear that often myself but it's the small touches that take it from frumpy to cute. And both being equally comfortable. Women dressing pretty does a huge number for the self esteem. It seems like we're a dying breed Irene.
Bianca S
You can't go trick-or-treating. Ever. For a week
05:53 PM on 08/13/2012
There's only one kind of skinny jean that looks good on me and that's J Brand but other than that, I like to wear jeans with a big wide leg and a wedge shoe. And I don't understand this nonsense that looking good automatically makes you obsessed? Putting on a maxi dress and a cute pair of sandals is insta-pretty and takes less effort than putting on a sloppy t-shirt and baggy sweats.
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D. A. Wolf
Founder, Daily Plate of Crazy
07:23 PM on 08/10/2012
I admit to being a lifelong lover of shoes beautiful shoes! I also know when certain styles are appropriate for the occasion, and others are not. I see nothing incongruous about a love of fashion and a belief in feminism, much less enjoying one's femininity as expressed through our fashion (and footwear) choices.
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JudyStock
Freelance Journalist
02:21 PM on 08/10/2012
I'm not down with the high heels. Never wear them. It reminds me of Chinese foot binding. It looks stupid to strut around in high heels. I can only image it must be another form of torture.