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Soraya Chemaly

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Dress Codes or How Schools Skirt Around Sexism and Homophobia

Posted: 02/19/2013 3:50 pm

Spring is coming, which means we are entering the season of the regulation of how much skin girls around the country are allowed to bare. Dress codes, while usually regulating boys' slovenliness, tend to police girls for how much of their bodies are visible. Anyone who's ever painted or stood in a room surrounded by Kara Walker silhouettes can tell you that white space is defining and when we talk about dress codes, girls' skin is the white space we've all been trained to ignore in these discussions. And, while everyone is in theory affected by dress codes, girls and LGTBQ youth are disproportionately affected by them. Challenging schools to align unexamined, traditional dress codes to contemporary values is a tangible place to start if you're interested in teaching kids to live in a diverse, tolerant society. Of course, many parents are not interested.

When it comes to girls, skimpy and skin-baring clothes are often the primary issue. Kids know that many words, like "unladylike," are code for "slutty." Other words that are frequently used include "distracting" and "unprofessional." Many teachers worry that girls' skin will "so addle boys' brains that they will be unable to concentrate." Boys, and apparently in Iowa, adult men who can now legally fire "irresistible" women, we are told, simply cannot concentrate in this environment.

So, what exactly is wrong with saying girls are "distracting"? I mean, everyone know this, right?

  • Who gets to be distracted? And, whose distraction is central? What is a girl supposed to think in the morning when she wakes up and tries to decide what to wear to school? They aren't idiots. The logical conclusion of the "distracting" issue is, "Will I turn someone on if I wear this?" Now who is doing the sexualizing? My daughters would never have thought these things without the help of their school. The only people these policies worry about distracting are heterosexual boys. When I was a teenager, there was a boy who distracted the hell out of me. It was the way his hair brushed against his neck and an insouciant ease with his large body. I managed just fine academically, and so can straight boys who encounter girls they are attracted to. When have you ever heard someone talk about what is distracting to girls or gay kids? This idea ignores that fact that girls and LBGTQ kids exist as sexual people. But, do you know what is distracting? Trying not to be distracting. This framing of the problem is marginalizing, sexist and heteronormative.
  • In addition, it implies strongly that girls have responsibility for boys' responses and that boys cannot control themselves. Boys should be insulted. People need to get a super-firm grip on the fact that girls are not sexual thermostats for their male peers. They need to manage themselves and are fully capable of doing so.
  • Third, if people are concerned that girls consider themselves decorative or that they think that appearing in what can be construed as sexually provocative ways is important, then they should confront the reasons why girls perceive these things to be true by the time they are 10 or 11. The clothes that our culture makes available and fashionable for girls -- the ones tied to being attractive, to glamour, success, money and public female power and glory -- are the same ones that make it possible for most girls and women to access power and resources vicariously in male-dominated culture. THAT is what schools should be concerned with. Blaming girls for making rational choices about what society rewards them for is useless and hypocritical.

This isn't to say girls should go to school wearing anything that strikes their fancy, no matter how skimpy. When their underwear is showing it's not because they're channelling Jean Paul Gaultier in an attempt to show how artificial the construction of gender is. There are times when girls reach an age when being sexy or sexual is just fine, but In the same way that they shouldn't wear athletic clothes to go to a wedding, they shouldn't wear clothes they'd wear, say, to a concert, when they go to school. I want my girls to be comfortable at school and respectful of their teachers and the learning environment. Boys, too. If this means, as girls occasionally suggest to teachers, that a school talk to boys about not looking at girls' legs if it makes them uncomfortable, then so be it. With uniforms, it should be even simpler.  The issue isn't the rules per se, it's how they're constructed.

Equally important is how they are enforced. This is of much more concern and frequently sets harmful precedents.

Some administrators start every school day with rigorous visual inspections as kids tumble onto campuses. These inspections don't exist in a vacuum. No one is suggesting that teachers are like street harassers. But, inspections begin around the same time that young girls start experiencing daily street harassment and sexual harassment on campus. In school, boys, like girls, are targets of public humiliation but, especially if they are straight, this type of public inspection and commentary on their bodies and clothes is usually limited to school. For girls and many LGBTQ people, this is just the beginning and it never ends. They have to deal with related feelings amplified by administrators who feel strongly about enforcement. On the recent afternoon of the day that my girls' school reviewed uniform policies, a gaggle of 13-year-old girls (in regulation uniforms) piled into my car as two men on the street leered, mumbled "compliments" at them and laughed. I didn't mention it, but realized the girls heard them as they started talking about how "creepy" it was. One made an automatic and unself-conscious connection: She said she did not like being inspected in school and it felt the same way to her. It's hard to know, in this context, who a girl is talking about when she says she's "uncomfortable when he winks" at me. I know it seems ridiculous to compare thoughtful, often loving teachers -- of both sexes -- with random jerks on the street, but that is true only if you willfully deny the centrality of the 13-year-old girls' point of view in the matter of her own comportment. The well-documented, harmful effects of self-objectification that result from the policing of school dress regulations is not unlike those that result from street harassment. From the girls' perspective, they'd started their day with people reviewing, having conversations about and publicly commenting on their bodies and were ending it in the same manner. It's wearisome. Some might say distracting.

In addition, the way school rules are often demonstrated is seriously problematic. For example, administrators might take a girl up to a stage and draw a line on her leg, to show where a regulation length skirt should fall. This is often done with humor, to offset the unpleasantness and difficulty of the task at hand, and everyone has a good laugh. A girl with no power, being told by a bigger person with authority what to do, might be acquiescing to what is happening to her, but she is not consenting. By using her body as a prop, the enforcer uses her body as an object for his or her purposes. Making it a joke can be insidious. I know this is not what's going through a teacher's head when surrounded by pubescent students who are violating code. But, nonetheless, this is happens every day, year after years in some places, and it is a terrible precedent to set for boys and girls.

Our ideas about consent and the use of other people's bodies are important and cannot, in this culture, begin early enough. Take, for example, the fact that 28% of girls in college are sexually assaulted (and 3% of boys), only 5% report these crimes. Say a boy or group of boys rapes a girl. They have grown up with ideas about how her clothes can "distract" boys and make them do things they haven't being told or asked overtly to control. The girl also might very well have internalized ideas repeatedly conveyed to her about how people confuse her clothes for "morality," or intent, how others can use or comment on her body, how her consent is not either expected or respected. Not only has she internalized these ideas, but her school might have institutionalized them in dress code policy and enforcement. This is not helpful. According to the Center for Public Integrity, only 5% of victims report crimes either because they don't understand their nature or because they are well aware of institutional tolerances for these practices.

Girls' "right to bare arms" is an idea with a long and meaningful tail.

This topic must be one of the most difficult for school administrators, often caught between a rock and a hard place with students, parents, their personal beliefs, traditions and concerns about student safety and performance. There are many ways to consider the usefulness, purpose, intent and effects of dress codes. If school communities are genuinely worried about girls and boys then they need to examine the stereotypes that permeate their own policies -- policies that are sometimes simply palimpsests of sexism, racism and homophobia, written over time and left undisturbed for too long. When traditions are sexist and homophobic they should be abandoned. Programs that deal with root issues like cultural gender stereotypes, sexism and misogyny in media, like Miss Representation or Common Sense Media's Gender ToolKit, are a good place to start.

 

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Spring is coming, which means we are entering the season of the regulation of how much skin girls around the country are allowed to bare. Dress codes, while usually regulating boys' slovenliness, ten...
Spring is coming, which means we are entering the season of the regulation of how much skin girls around the country are allowed to bare. Dress codes, while usually regulating boys' slovenliness, ten...
 
 
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vrede
don't shoot me it's just my opinion
03:50 AM on 03/02/2013
Excellent points. Society has accepted the macho boy like the ones who rape at parties to be understandable because the girl enticed him. This is the same as saying males cannot control their sexual urges. So men are just wild animals and not human? No reason or control in their bodies? Baloney.
I raised a respectful son so anybody can do it.
I went to highschool 69-72. Our skirts were mini's with tights mostly or fishnet hose. We fought to be able to wear pants, like the boys who could wear jeans and t-shirts to school whereas we had to wear a skirt and blouse no t-shirts allowed.. I will never forget our last meeting with our pig principal over dress code. He told us that we were more likely to be raped in blue jeans then in a skirt. I had to stand up and say that is ridiculous. Jeans are much harder to get off then pulling up a skirt.
The problem is males are not taught to respect females and in todays commercial life girls and boys are bombarded with being sexy, instead of being bombarded with self respect. Instead of using their strength for the protection of women they use it against them. such a shame.
09:00 PM on 02/22/2013
Not all boys harass girls. Girls are not better than boys.
05:42 AM on 02/25/2013
What bothers me (and I don't know if it was what you were getting at or not) is that most feminists do actually acknowledge this but aren't given credit for doing so: it's implicit when we note (as the author did) that boys are bloody well capable of controlling themselves. We can say such things, because we have those boys who don't harass girls to point to as evidence.

It's those who try to dismiss or defend the harassment that does happen with phrases like "boys will be boys" who are implicitly asserting that harassing girls is something universal to all (proper) boys. But they're not taken to task for it.
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Lindsey Weedston
07:03 PM on 02/20/2013
"Skirt" around. Heheh. I get it.

The problem with constantly acting as though boys can't control themselves is pretty Psychology 101. Kids automatically internalize the messages of adult authority figures. You treat a kid like they're lazy, they become that way. You treat a kid like she's immature, she'll be immature. You treat a boy like he can't help but be distracted by the way a girl looks or dresses, that he just can't resist making comments or starting or touching or raping, and that's what you get.

Children have to believe that adults are right about things. They will become what we think of them. It's only survival. Treat kids like responsible, caring, empathetic, respectful human beings.
01:51 PM on 02/20/2013
I'm a bit confused by this article. I don't see how it would in any way affect LGBTQ students as well. Though I do agree with you about the instiutionalized sexism and how most things are in reference to men and boys and them not being able to "cope" with the attractiveness of a female.
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Soraya Chemaly
Writer
09:10 AM on 02/21/2013
I think the issue is that where you have schools with strict policies about girls' skirts, etc. you problaby have rules related to the clothing worn by kids who "transgress" in other ways - boys with long hair, of boys who wear skirts, or girls who want to dress as "men" for proms - all of which, if you google, have been banned by schools or have caused controversies.
05:39 PM on 02/21/2013
Yea I see that I'm just talking from my standpoint going to a high school in Texas a quite conservative part of houston the boy's dress code was reinforced just as the girls was it's just the boys rarely ever broke the dresscode aside from sagging pants or wearing something without sleeves or some kind of sleazy top but girls would wear tights as pants, too short dresses, too short skirts, pants with excessive slits in them, strapless tops, top that showed their stomach, etc. Ton of lesbians at my school who dress indistinguishable from the boys whom at points in time I thought were boys we had a transgendered guy a very effeminate gay guy and then theres me who's not the most masculine guy either and I don't like wearing boy pants and I occassionally wear girl shirts and makeup and my earring and aside from sometimes be called "ma'am" lol there's not a problem
01:14 AM on 02/20/2013
Not all boys harass girls and girls are not better than boys.
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10:35 AM on 02/20/2013
Yes, but some boys do harass girls, and at higher rates than girls harassing boys. Please point out in the article where she said "girls are better than boys". Seriously. She was speaking to the point of dress codes being directed at girls and the underlying message that girls are responsible for managing boys sexuality. It is pathetic to think that boys cannot control their own sexual advances towards girls, and if this is the case then those particular boys need to stay at home.
06:53 PM on 02/22/2013
Not all boys harass girls. I'm just pointing out a fact.
12:15 PM on 02/20/2013
...yes, that is correct. I believe the point of the article was that boys are perfectly capable of and do control themselves, which is why the framing of these regulations can be harmful.
06:52 PM on 02/22/2013
Thank you for agreeing with me.
01:03 AM on 02/20/2013
Dress codes, like basically every system of control, works for the norm. That is the point, is it not? Of course a good number of people work out just fine with uniforms, because a good number of people are conformists. The system works for them. From that perspective, denying particularly teenagers in these critically years of identity formation the right to wear what they want is extremely harmful, because it once again punishes everything and everyone outside of the norm. Outside of what a white male dominated society deems appropriate. There is a good reason why slaves were not allowed to choose their own clothes, and why clothes were among the first things they bought when they could. Something to think about.
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LintLass
"When you can balance a tackhammer on your head...
04:47 PM on 02/20/2013
Eh, don't try telling this ol' punk gal about conformism. Calling people 'conformists' isn't actually *why* uniforms and dress codes do have benefits. most notably, bypassing the class and fashion clique issues about how various kids can afford to or even be allowed to dress... This *can* reduce a whole lot of the 'othering' that goes on in the schools, especially over stuff like that.

I mean, I can remember when I was a lot younger, having conservative *parents* singled me out a great deal in early years in public school cause I wasn't wearing the fashionable things. Which sure didn't help me pass for straight and all.

Sometimes we forget that a lot of stuff that seems trivial now was a *big deal* when we were in our early teens... And when you've got kids having status battles over the archetypal five hundred dollar sneakers and the like, that's incentive to lots of other things that aren't helping individual expression.

Frankly, I don't think it has to be all-or-nothing about *control,* ...it just that a dress code needs to be thought *through.* Cause there's no real 'perfect ideal' either way.

Better not to leave deciding on the dress codes *to* the control freaks. Cause they'll start demanding certain haircuts and this and that... (Which I think ought to be out of bounds, for a start: that's someone's body, not their attire. We don't need *more gender policing* in the bargain, either. )
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LintLass
"When you can balance a tackhammer on your head...
05:30 PM on 02/20/2013
Anyway, I don't think dress codes turn people into a bunch of little conformists. If anything, they may tend to unite kids *against* the dress code *for* individuality. I think having kids 'competing' at conforming to a consumerist model of 'choice' tends to be what leads to all the 'othering' and in-group-out-group stuff pertaining to clothes.

I think where there can be a problem with these things, such as what's described in the article, is when dress codes become a vehicle for *others* to impose their conformities and sexist ideologies and related harassments *on* all the kids.

I think the distinction there is a matter of degree, not kind.

One school I attended, by then old enough to pick my own clothes and all, we had a dress code with a certain amount of leeway, but it was enough to avoid people hassling each other over how much skin they might be baring or not baring, how expensive their blazer was, (Pretty interesting, considering how many rich kids were there. They didn't care that the artsy crowd was going to the vintage shops. :) I could be pretty comfortably-androgynous by being kinda New Wave at school and kind of find a comfort level there that probably wouldn't so much fly if everyone was normally all prissied-up, you know. I mean, a lot of people chafed at it, but I really didn't mind.
10:41 PM on 02/19/2013
We went for decades without uniforms and came out relatively fine. What's the deal now (defined as "since 1995 or so")?

The problem is, uniforms and dress codes are measures for enforcing not just conformity, but traditionalism as well. Any change in how we might dress will run up against all the uniforms and dress codes, because these are specifically designed not to account for anything more than the least bit new (defined as "since the '60s") or different. (And, yes, that goes for the workplace, too.) Apparently men's haircuts and trousers and ties are part of the Immutable Cosmic Order and chaos will ensue if these ever pass. (I know the essay mainly addresses women, but thanks for the axe-grinding opportunity.)
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LintLass
"When you can balance a tackhammer on your head...
05:39 PM on 02/20/2013
Well, like I was saying above, uniforms and dress codes don't have to be all-or-nothing that way. I don't think there's any social benefit at all to mandating certain hairstyles, but, yaknow, we don't need the kids having to compete at *consumer* conformities about clothes all day.

And, mind you, I do think that boys tend to behave a little more like adults if *dressed* as such. Part of the problem with a lot of 'traditional' dress codes a la Catholic school is that sometimes the girls end up dressed like *children,* actually, ...plaid jumpers and Mary Janes and white knee socks don't really convey 'Respect me,' you know. This is not a real problem if everyone's like dressed for Hogwarts or business casual or something.

I'm all for men in kilts, mind you. You should go for that. :)
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10:41 PM on 02/19/2013
I have issues with dress codes, and norms, that permit women to wear short skirts and nearly sleeveless blouses in a professional setting but men have to wear slacks, undershirt, button down shirt and a jacket (sometimes even with a vest underneath) not to mention a tie that makes you feel like you're about to be hung. Even in a 'causal dress' work environment men are still not permitted to wear shorts.
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LintLass
"When you can balance a tackhammer on your head...
04:20 PM on 02/20/2013
Hey, go for a Utilikilt in some nice suit fabric, I guarantee you'll be popular. :)

I have no idea why boys find ties to be such torture. A bigger collar size would probably help? :)
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07:27 PM on 02/20/2013
There's a stress-related condition that is amplified by stricture to the neck/throat area and creates a sensitivity to it, but it's been so long that I've been accused of being subject to it that I can't remember its name. Perfect for stultified office work. But I'm not sure that the restrictive male dress code and the very much demanded female code aren't herd mentality that no one but the risen ghost of Henry can address. Your own discomfort--and most everyone else's--with "proper" suit attire that embodies the Zeitgeist of attentiveness (as in, standing at attention) as opposed to "relaxed", "casual" or "at ease", bears witness to the confrontational structure of workplace interaction; failure to dress properly is seen as slovenly, and lack of adherence to it is seen as insulting: I had to dress up for this, why didn't you? Without intermediaries and a dress-code UN, the world will probably go to its grave in Brooks Brothers.
As far as shorts, forget it--too distracting. It appears Evolution favors those choked at both ends.
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Populuxe1
10:38 PM on 02/19/2013
What a middle-class white person's whine of entitlement! You are projecting a whole lot of adult privilege where it doesn't belong. Uniforms and dress codes exist to equalise social differences and the stigma for families in lower economic groups. Outside of the family home the school is acting in loco parentis and you need to recognise that in that role the school has a right to say how the way your children dress reflects on the reputation of the school and its management of your children. It is not ok to allow young men and women to dress "distractingly" in a hormonally-charged environment when they are there for an education to see them through their future lives (School does not exist primarily as a social club for your teenagers). You obviously are quite a self-centred person because you really don't seem to care about how other parents might feel about their children being distracted by the inappropriate dress choices of your children. And finally, the whole thing about teenagers' right to self expression in school is utter nonsense - that's what after hours and the weekends are for (think about how you dress for work and what is considered appropriate), they are after all children, not responsible adults, and therefore the self-expression needs to be placed within a context of appropriate boundaries by adults - that is by you at home and by the school at school. If you don't like it, home school.
05:50 PM on 02/20/2013
"It is not ok to allow young men and women to dress "distractingly" in a hormonally-charged environment when they are there for an education"

Yeah...you really should reread (or actually read) the article. And the three list points especially.

"Uniforms and dress codes exist to equalise social differences and the stigma for families in lower economic groups."

In my experience it doesn't work. Even with uniforms and dress codes it's still possible to tell who has and who has not (especially in smaller communities)--and the lower class kids still get bullied. Have you actually been a public school student within the last 5 years or so?

"And finally, the whole thing about teenagers' right to self expression in school is utter nonsense"

Yeah! The First and Fourteenth Amendments ceases to exist when you walk through the school doors! Oh...wait! They doesn't! And you don't have to be 18 to have your Constitutional rights.

I wonder how dress codes still exist anyway. Federal and state laws should be followed and gym and lab safety regulations are necessary, yes. But the rest has always stood out to me as a clear violation of rights. Several cases have happened to this affect and dress codes banning certain types of expression have been ruled unconstitutional in the past.
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vrede
don't shoot me it's just my opinion
04:03 AM on 03/02/2013
is best to read the article before commenting.
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Elizabethe C. Payne
07:30 PM on 02/19/2013
Fabulous. Thank you for writing this!!!! We love your work!!
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Soraya Chemaly
Writer
08:37 PM on 02/19/2013
TYSM - would love to talk to you sometime about the work you guys do. Will email!
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MarySkl
“Intellectual growth should commence at birth an
06:32 PM on 02/19/2013
Great blog. I once led a group of parents in a meeting about the junior high dress code for girls. The code stated that all shorts should be no higher than 3 inches above the knee. I told the principal that I would be happy to dress my child in shorts of that length if he would kindly tell me where to purchase them. There was not a single store in my area at that time which sold girls' shorts that long. The principal changed his mind. Not only are these dress code sexist (and that goes for males as well), they are typically arbitrary. Male students are generally not allowed to wear earrings, or have longer hair. Schools attempt to keep males firmly in gender norm categories and make girls responsible for male sexuality. I was never so glad in my life when all three of my kids were out of high school and did not have to conform to the authoritarian dress code. College students do not have a dress code, but somehow seem to master what is appropriate dress for the appropriate occasion.
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LintLass
"When you can balance a tackhammer on your head...
05:45 PM on 02/19/2013
Hrm. While I'm generally in favor of dress codes, if not uniforms, I sometimes think tugs-of-war about them go too far: and it's not just about shaming girls about showing too *much* skin, but as I recall from school, getting trouble if they found the regulation skirts too *short* for their own comfort.

I think schools that want to go to uniforms for the various reasons that are good (like avoiding too much about all the class and clique issues that way, need to be a bit more accommodating of diversity and students' own comfort levels. Just some uniform *options* could be helpful, ie, let girls wear slacks or longer skirts, appropriate but uniform headwear for Sikh and Muslim students, etc, ...don't gender-segregate who can choose what options, etc.

Other issues aside, I think a lot of the problems come from people trying to make uniforms a little *too* uniform.
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neighborhoodmole
no one really knows who anyone is here
04:51 PM on 02/19/2013
Mandatory unisex school uniforms are the solution.
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MarySkl
“Intellectual growth should commence at birth an
07:19 PM on 02/19/2013
I disagree. The teen years are the years that people experiment with individuality. School is all about abiding by normative behavior and IMO this sends the wrong message as well. Instead of celebrating individuality, we celebrate conformity. Teens will find a way to personalize those uniforms that takes away most of the benefits.
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neighborhoodmole
no one really knows who anyone is here
07:59 PM on 02/19/2013
I went to Catholic school through high school and always wore a uniform, did you? I managed to learn independent, critical thinking by sophomore year dressing like everyone else. I don't recall much personalization of the uniforms. Instead, I learned that the mind is what counts the most, not superficial things like clothing. This was during the 60's when many priests and nuns became radical proponents of social reform and civil rights, encouraged by Pope John XXIII, the last liberal, progressive Pope.
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squirrely girl
Assistant Professor ~ Developmental Psychology
07:39 PM on 03/07/2013
Alas what is described as "unisex" isn't really... rather it's imposing traditionally male clothing on everybody unilaterally.
04:27 PM on 02/19/2013
I do not like dress codes (for some of the reasons outlined above), but I do think that school uniforms are a great idea. When I was a teenage nerdy girl, I would have loved not to have to worry about what I was wearing. Plus uniforms can serve as a type of equalizer in schools with a lot of economic disparity of the students. My parents were quite well-off professionals, but came from poor families. Our clothes were typically obvious knock-offs of what was actually fashionably at the time, and practically begged for mocking by mean girls. Personally I think a unisex uniform would be best, or at least an allowance for anybody to wear either type of uniform regardless of gender assignment at birth.
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neighborhoodmole
no one really knows who anyone is here
08:09 PM on 02/19/2013
I agree. Also, if the school does not require a uniform, then any dress code should be gender neutral. If they are going to allow skirts, then boys can wear skirts. If they ban showing knees, then boys cannot wear shorts that are above the knees. I think slacks and shirts for all make the most sense. If girls can have long hair, so can boys. All jewelry should be left at home, there is no reason to wear any on campus, students are there to learn, not to show off.