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Why We Made the Story of Cosmetics

Posted: 08/04/10 12:09 PM ET

What a couple of weeks it's been! More than 200,000 of you have watched the Story of Cosmetics since its launch July 21, and we've received an outpouring of support -- from cancer survivors, salon workers who've been harmed by chemical exposures on the job, green business owners and people around the world who are thanking us for raising the debate about toxic chemicals in the shampoos, deodorants and lotions we rub on our bodies every day.

The introduction of the Safe Cosmetics Act on the same day as the film premiere provides a vehicle to organize this energy into action. There are real opportunities ahead to shift the $50 billion beauty industry in a safer, more sustainable direction.

Not everyone is excited about these opportunities. Currently, the big cosmetics companies get to decide what's safe with very little government oversight, and they like this system just the way it is. The industry trade association has spent many millions of dollars over the past five years hiring lobbyists and PR firms to fend off attempts at new regulations.

So it's no surprise that we're seeing pushback about the critiques presented in the Story of Cosmetics (fully footnoted script is here) and the fact that a serious attempt to fix these problems is moving through Congress. The misinformation is buzzing, stirring up fears that the bill would hurt small businesses.

We'd like to take this opportunity to share why we made the film, and why we believe this moment offers huge possibilities to protect our health and future generations while also opening up new business opportunities for the companies that are already doing the right thing and making the safest products.

#1: Cancer Prevention

We made this film for Annie's grandmother who died of cancer before Annie was born, for Stacy's college roommate who died of cancer at 38, for Lisa who was 19 when she lost her mother to breast cancer -- and for all the moms, sisters, daughters, sons and fathers who are dealing with diseases that may be preventable.

We are living in a time when one in two American men and one in three women will get some type of cancer in their lifetimes. This is not normal. This is not acceptable. This is not the way it was when our grandparents were born. Why is it this way now?

Part of the answer lies in the 1950s mindset of "better living through chemistry." That's when companies figured out how to process oil into chemicals, and billions of tons of synthetic substances that never before existed in nature were put into commerce with little thought to the impacts on health and the environment. Companies just weren't required to study that stuff.

Decades later, it's clear we've got some big problems. The risk of getting breast cancer increased more than 40% in just our lifetimes, and many other types of cancer including childhood, testicular and prostate cancers are on the rise.

As the President's Cancer Panel recently stated:

The true burden of environmentally induced cancer has been grossly underestimated. With nearly 80,000 chemicals on the market in the United States, many of which are used by millions of Americans in their daily lives and are un- or understudied and largely unregulated, exposure to potential environmental carcinogens is widespread.

The panel pointed to studies that have found 300 synthetic chemicals in the umbilical cord blood of newborn babies. This is a wake-up call. When we hear that babies are being born pre-polluted with industrial chemicals, including fragrance chemicals, it's time to figure out how to do things differently.

Two big opportunities to do things differently are moving through Congress right now -- the Safe Cosmetics Act and a similar effort to regulate industrial chemicals under EPA jurisdiction. These bills will set up systems that should have been set up decades ago to assess chemical toxicity and put standards in place that encourage the development of safe products.

#2: Getting carcinogens out of baby shampoo is common sense

Some companies argue that baby shampoos and other products contain just tiny amounts of cancer-causing chemicals, and there's no proof these exposures are causing cancer in people. Never mind that no one is even studying the cancer risk to kids exposed to carcinogens every day in the bathtub.

How about just getting carcinogens out of baby shampoo? Many companies have already figured out how to make great products without using chemicals that are known to cause cancer in lab animals.

So why aren't all the companies doing that? It goes back to that 1950s mindset again. Despite their reputation for innovation, many cosmetics companies are using the same toxic chemistry processes they've been using for decades, and they justify it with a theory straight from the 18th century: "the dose makes the poison."

The old theory was that if a high dose of a toxic substance causes cancer in lab studies, then lower doses were safe. But it's not that simple. According to the more recent science, it's not just the size of the dose that matters, but the timing of the dose, the age and size of the person exposed, the potential for low-dose effects and the enhanced toxicity of chemical mixtures.

Most risk assessments don't even consider these complicating factors. So how can we trust the risk calculations? The common sense thing to do is take a precautionary approach. Let's work to reduce preventable and unnecessary exposures to toxic chemicals in the products we use every day.

Let's not argue about how much carcinogens a baby can tolerate in the bathtub, let's just get the carcinogens out of baby shampoo.

While we're at it, if we really want to protect children, let's get the hazardous chemicals out of products used by pregnant women, and women who may someday want to become pregnant. Might as well get chemicals associated with damaged sperm and feminized genitals out of the body sprays marketed to teenage boys, too.

#3: We believe in a better way

We believe it's possible to get rid of the toxins and still have a thriving healthy cosmetics industry with abundant opportunities for small businesses. We believe the best thing for the whole American economy is to move away from the old polluting technologies in chemistry and energy and develop the next generation of clean, green products that people around the world want to buy.

In fact, the fastest growing segment of the cosmetics industry, even during the recession, has been the natural and organic sector, largely driven by growing consumer concern about toxic chemicals. But with no legal standards for these products, it's challenging for consumers to sort through the greenwash and make the best choices.

There are no silver-bullet solutions. These problems are complicated and have been decades in the making. Solving them will require all of us -- consumers, business owners, chemists, scientists, government agencies -- to reach deeper and think bigger.

Part of the solution is to pass policies like the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 that will eliminate the most harmful substances, set up systems to assess safety, and shed more light on the health effects of the chemicals we put on our bodies. As with any bill, there are important details still to be worked out through the democratic process, and we look forward to the debate.

We believe the challenges can be worked out while still achieving the goal of safer products and without harming small businesses. The bill will actually provide many benefits to small businesses, such as providing access to toxicity information and making it easier for consumers to find the safest products.

Preserving opportunities for small businesses is crucial. These companies are the heart and soul of the cosmetics industry. They are leading the way in solving many of the toxicity problems and innovating safer alternatives -- they are figuring out how to preserve products without formaldehyde or estrogenic chemicals, how to make great suds without carcinogenic contaminants, and many are going a step further and sourcing sustainable, organic and fair-trade ingredients. They are proving it can be done.

Many small business owners were inspired to start companies because they got sick with cancer or other diseases, or they couldn't find products they felt good about using.

"I founded my company because safe baby products weren't easily available to parents due to a broken system that allows companies to use toxic chemicals in personal care products -- and promote them as safe," says Jessica Iclisoy, founder of California Baby. "We need a bottom line of safety and integrity in the cosmetics aisle."

Cancer survivor and make-up artist Britta Aragon, who founded the company Cinco Vidas to help other cancer survivors, added:

Manufacturers are slow to embrace change -- if they embrace it at all. The only answer is regulation that forces industry to consider the potential health effects of any and all ingredients used. The priority has to be our health.

For the health of all of us, for all the people who have suffered with preventable diseases, we need to figure this out. We owe it to our children and future generations to figure this out. Let's work together toward the day when all children are born free of toxic chemicals and with the best chance to live healthy fulfilled lives.

Please take action by telling your Congressional Representatives that safe cosmetics are important to you; ask him or her to co-sponsor the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010.

Annie Leonard is the creator of the internet phenomenon "The Story of Stuff" which has been viewed more than 12 million times online, and author of the bestselling book by the same name. Stacy Malkan is a co-founder of the national Campaign for Safe Cosmetics and author of, "Not Just a Pretty Face: The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry."

 

Follow Stacy Malkan on Twitter: www.twitter.com/safecosmetics

 
 
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02:11 PM on 09/15/2010
Thank you so much for your work, Stacy and Annie. The cancer rates in our country are extremely alarming, and we should be doing everything we can to counter them.

I'd also like to point out to other posters that not everyone has the choice to buy expensive organic products at Whole Foods. A lot of people who buy toxic shampoo aren't doing so because we don't believe that carcinogens cause cancer, but because we don't have disposable income to choose something safer (and thus more expensive). Therefore, all of this "choice" that other posters have been raving about really isn't a choice for a lot of people. That's why we need legislation to ban toxic chemicals from all products, so that *everyone* will be protected.
06:52 AM on 08/15/2010
I have read all the comments, especially the ones that are obviously from industry.

Their claims that the products are safety tested etc., are SEMI-factual

OK, as someone who has the ACTUAL test results from one of the best selling fragrances, Angel by Theirry Mugler, the CORPORATIONS tests show that it is dangerous.

They are the actual tests as obtained via litigation.

So please, those who state that they are safety tested, sure, BUT, is the public being told of the test results? NO!

If products are so safe, why are they tested at a diluted strength than what is being sold to the public? Why aren't warning that are discovered via 'safety' testing placed on the package as required by law? Because they NEVER expect the public to see the results, let along figure out that they used a watered down version.

So to those who are professing that cosmetics and fragrances are safe. PROVIDE the TESTING before making such a slanted statement as if it was based upon fact and science. If the products are so safe, then they should have no problem with providing this to the public upon request, rather than via litigation.
03:00 PM on 08/12/2010
Stacy, as you know, I definitely share the same concern about safety in cosmetics. As a cancer survivor, and having lost my father to an 8 year cancer battle 3 years ago, I have dedicated my career to create awareness about chemicals in our environment, food and mainly personal care products. There is much evidence about cancer being related to the environment, chemicals and pollutants, and I have a huge concern for the lack of regulation in this industry.

This video and the Safe Cosmetics Act make it clear that consumers are no longer willing to accept a lackluster approach to safety in their cosmetic products. Business as usual‹which means formulating with a vast array of questionable ingredients‹will no longer be tolerated in a world already
overflowing with potentially hazardous chemicals. I'm particularly pleased to see government representatives finally taking serious action toward increased regulation. We may not have scientific proof that any of the 10 or more products we use on a daily basis contribute to
the thousands of cancer diagnoses handed out each day, but the fact that so many of these ingredients lack safety testing by a publicly accountable organization‹and that several have been scientifically linked to cancer, hormone alteration, respiratory problems, and other health concerns‹makes it painfully obvious that we must take steps toward better protecting the
health of ourselves and our families. Its about time our health comes first!

Thank you both for your amazing work!
Britta Aragon
www.cincovidas.com
08:09 AM on 08/11/2010
Stacy and Annie -

My sympathies to you both for your loss due to cancer. I too have lost so I know the devastation you both feel. I do not share your same concern that cosmetics are not safe. The Story of Cosmetics video is nothing more than a platform to spread more fear.

As taken from your blog, 'Not Just a Pretty Face', you say: "There’s also a lot of straight-up propaganda being circulated by opponents of reform. No, the Safe Cosmetics Act would not ban coffee, it would not require testing of every product, it would not require labels to contain information about trace contaminants in water. Really, it wouldn’t".

Don't kid yourself, it would. Have you read the bill? It's obvious you don't understand it & quite frankly, the propaganda is coming from the two of you, CFSC, EWG & supporters. What I have found interesting is whenever you or your supporters are challenged with scientific facts, you divert to the same sound bite that we don't care about consumer safety. Nothing could be farther from the truth. While you're pointing at us for spreading misinformation, remember you've got 3 fingers pointing back at you.

My question is who will everyone blame when the cosmetic choices they have are minimal because companies can't afford to stay in business or just decided to close up shop should the SCA pass?

Have a great day!

Lisa M. Rodgers
Personal Care Truth
http://www.personalcaretruth.com
02:25 PM on 08/08/2010
There needs to be more whistleblowing about this!
07:16 AM on 08/07/2010
Most people don’t realize that while rigorous testing is required for chemicals in foods and drugs, testing is not required for chemicals in cosmetics, furniture, and other consumer products. So our toothpaste, our lipstick or our furniture can contain known cancer-causing chemicals that end up in our bodies and the government is powerless to protect us. Many thanks to Annie and Stacy for explaining this so well.
Right now we have a unique opportunity to protect ourselves and our children from untested and potentially toxic chemicals by supporting the Safe Cosmetics Act and The Toxic Chemical Safety Act in the House and The Safe Chemicals Act in the Senate. By support this legislation, we can give our government the authority it needs to protect our health and the health of out Children
01:31 PM on 08/06/2010
Could someone please provide a list of chemical that are non-toxic.
05:52 AM on 08/07/2010
With well over 5000 different chemicals being used in cosmetics, the easier approach would be to list the ones to avoid, check out http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/
03:41 PM on 08/09/2010
I looked up lavender oil in that database. It says that lavender oil contains Limonene, which has caused cancer in mammalian cells. Therefore this "safe cosmetics act" will ban any product with lavender oil. It seems that this act will unintentionally ban many of the products I get from my local natural skin care company that sells at the farmer's market
12:39 PM on 08/06/2010
In the EU we have the cosmetics directive, a large number (not all toxins, carcinogens or EDC’s) of ingredients are either banned or controlled for use in cosmetics. Small companies did not go out of business. They adapted much quicker than larger companies. We now have a thriving market in certified organic products, produced by organic cosmetic traders with their own trade association.

Cosmetics are luxury items not essential products. We should not be exposing ourselves, workers and our planet to toxic ingredients just to make our hair shinier, our lipstick to survive a kiss, or our bodies to smell (frankly) like a cross between fermenting cat pee and a cloy chemical sewer (but that’s just what perfume and aftershave smell like to me!!!).

Small business and workers should be helped transgress from manufacturing potentially harmful products to providing safer products and services. Its called ‘Just Transition’.

I think there is a viable argument to getting potentially harmful ingredients out of cosmetics (remember, a ‘luxury’ item)? I really question anyone who fights this step forward. Remembering cosmetics also get into our air, soil and water. They can contaminate and harm during production, use and disposal. The amount of waste alone from cosmetics should be reason for us all to use less and change to less harmful and safer cosmetics.
04:42 PM on 08/30/2010
Even our directive still isn't enough though and unless you know what to buy were still shoving harmful chemicals into our bodies, including in our toothpastes and mouth wash some of which isn't listed with other ingredients not regulated let alone all the parabens we still use, which tests have shown large amounts appearing in breast milk which is then pasted directly onto the baby before they even get a say as to what goes into their bodies. These aren't banned under the directive and as the project highlights, one product may not be harmful enough on it's own, but most people layer up these chemicals.

I personally opt for consumer power and it's already worked in other areas, such as an increase in organic products. Since they supply the demand we need to demand through our purchases.

Faith in Nature, Aloe Dent, Dr. Organic, the list goes on there are already a very large volume of superb natural products out there. If more bought them instead of the chemical products we'd be forcing other manufacturers to change their tune through our consumer power; to re-think what they produce by changing product demand.
11:17 AM on 08/06/2010
I think we have choices every day of what we buy, what we use, and what we put into the mouths of our family and on our bodies. No one is FORCING you to buy synthetic, manufactured, poisoned cosmetics are they? Is there a gun to your head that says that you must buy anything? If a person is allergic to peanuts, do they buy peanut butter or products made in places where they are processed at? Nope. They steer clear because THEY KNOW it will harm them.

I think that there are plenty of other choices out there in order for people to take control of their lives instead of expecting the Government to impose more rules and regulations that could potentially (and probably will) devastate small businesses in the natural products business. I agree with whiskas. We must educate ourselves. I read the proposed bill. It's not just about the ingredients. It's about control. They want information about what is sold, bought, paid for by every company involved in this. There's so much more to this whole thing that just an overhaul of ingredients.

Make the choice to stop supporting poisonous cosmetics and products you find harmful. Don't put the blame on someone else. The change starts here.
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05:03 PM on 08/06/2010
I know of one small soapmaker who won't be harmed by this bill; on the contrary, it will benefit them.
02:26 PM on 08/09/2010
There is no free and fair choice when the toxicity of products and even the chemicals in them are hidden from consumers. The peanut analogy is fitting -- yes people with peanut allergies can choose to avoid peanuts. Many people are also allergic to formaldehyde (or become allergic, after repeated exposures). However, it's not so easy to avoid formaldehyde in personal care products. Due to labeling loopholes, you won't find the chemical listed on labels of products like Johnson's Baby Shampoo, Baby Magic Baby Lotion, L'Oreal Kids Extra Gentle Shampoo, American Girl Shower Gel, Huggies Naturally Refreshing Baby Wash, Grins & Giggles Baby Wash, Barbie Bubble Bath or Sesame Street Bubble Bath -- yet all these products contain formaldehyde.

How do we know this? The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics spent a couple hundred dollars per product to test them at a lab (www.safecosmetics.org/toxictub). Should we expect consumers to conduct research projects at labs to find safe products? Or how about if companies just clean up their act and be honest about what's in their products?
04:17 AM on 08/06/2010
If you want safe cosmetics, support your local economy and buy handmade.
I make products that don't require preservatives or any toxic chemicals. There are many others like me.
Large corporations make formulations that should not even be referred to as cosmetics as they are more than likely 90% junk designed to make them money. Even "California Baby" uses known sensitizing and irritating preservatives.
It's not feasible for most companies to sell products without these toxins because they keep out bacterial growth & mold. There is a purpose to(some of) these chemicals, they are not just thrown in recklessly for fun. Newer, safer preservatives are being created all the time, indeed, "better living through chemistry."
If you want safe products, EDUCATE YOURSELF! Read the label, don't just toss in the cart.
An example of ingredients in handcrafted lip balm:
sweet almond oil, beeswax, coconut oil, jojoba oil.
If you do not know what these are, there is this magical site called wikipedia. Look them up. They are all natural and safe.
Add a little iron oxide(hint: it's already naturally inside you) and you have lipstick.
People, you have a choice. If you want to stop putting toxins in your body, STOP PAYING FOR THEM. Don't support legislation that will screw those of us trying to offer safe choices to you.
05:27 AM on 08/06/2010
on a related note what about linking vaccines to autism? or food defect action levels? an acceptable amount of bug parts and rodent feces in your food? how much evil is "necessary"? euthanized pets ground up and put in your pet's food? how do we accurately control these thing? sacrebleu
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05:05 PM on 08/06/2010
This legislation will not screw anyone who does not use the subject chemicals in their products.
09:22 PM on 08/06/2010
if there is arsenic in apple seeds, ban apples before someone eats 1,000,000 apple seeds and dies. this is how i make my living, making safe product. i will drown in paperwork, my suppliers will raise prices. there are trace elements of lots of things in every ingredient..i cannot list them all. yes i think big companies making poison should be regulated.. so rewrite this better! then they will have our support.
11:04 PM on 08/05/2010
It is the common use of these items and our lack of knowledge about them that makes this issue
especially important. Thanks for bringing it to the a wider audience. In the meantime.... use as few of these products as possible, you'll save money (lots) and if doing without these things becomes fashionable, we can find other ways to spend money and support the economy. Job loss
and support of small business was the argument for the tobacco industry too, to support everything and anything because it helps the economy makes no sense if it is poisoning people.
06:09 PM on 08/05/2010
The best solution is probably to just stop buying the products. There are already several green products available on the market that have the consumer in mind.
05:49 PM on 08/05/2010
You have good intentions, but you seem to be unaware of the unintended consequences of the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010. The things that we commonly ingest, and which are ingredients in skin care products (olive oil, coconut oil, coffee, ... any food!) would be outlawed by this bill because of the myriad of chemicals that make up these things. Most natural extracts (lavender oil, rosemary oil,etc) would also be outlawed for the same reason. Ironically, the only "legal" ingredients left to use will be the pure synthetics, that have been manufactured and tested by the big manufacturers. They are probably quietly chuckling to themselves, while they pretend to oppose you.
08:03 PM on 08/05/2010
Dear Quasi Serious, The bill would not ban those things. Here is a great post by Healthy Child Healthy World on this topic. http://healthychild.org/blog/comments/will_the_safe_cosmetics_act_hurt_small_businesses/
12:10 PM on 08/06/2010
The bill does not explicitly ban them, but because they are made up of many chemicals, some of which are probably toxic by some route of exposure and at some high dosage, they will effectively be banned. There are also always trace contaminants in products (take a soil or air sample sometime and see the hundreds of chemicals that are present) and again, if any are detected then the product would be in violation of the act.
04:02 PM on 08/05/2010
As a advocate for safe cosmetics, especially in the African American Community, you have my support. GreenSistah,
08:05 PM on 08/05/2010
Thanks Willette, Avacado, MoLove and all of you who are posting notes of support and contacting us. It means a lot and we are all in this soup together, but things are already changing for the better thanks to the work of so many!