If the Future of Fashion Isn't Green, What Is It?

Having covered ecofashion designers for four years now on my blog and having written a book discussing ways to live green (including supporting ecofashion), I was interested and excited to attend the "Is the Future of Fashion Green" discussion recently held at SoHo House in association with the NY Salon.

The crowd, despite the subject matter, was definitely not filled with agreeable zombies nodding in blind acceptance as Bruno might have us believe about fashion-industry folks.

L to R: panelists Jeffery Hutchison, Alan Miller (moderator), Sandra Ballentine and James Woudhuysen. Photo courtesy of Elle.com and LLR Consulting

No, instead this was a real salon-style dialog (attendees were heartily encouraged to participate, and they did), which included disagreements, tangents, and departures, and some difficult but worthwhile issues were raised. The intellectual wranglings were, however, made by a crowd was also obviously quite involved with fashion; most who sat in designer chairs and perched upon overstuffed couches, or even lounged on the floor- were dressed a la mode.

The panel was composed of Jeffrey Hutchison, who designs fashion retail spaces for stores like Donna Karan and Narciso Rodriquez; Sandra Ballentine, the beauty and style director for T: The New York Times Style Magazine; and James Woudhuysen, a professor of forecasting and innovation at De Montfort University in Liecester, UK and author of Energise! A Future for Energy Innovation. Julie Gilhart, SVP and fashion director of Barney's (and a true leader of the ecofashion movement) was unable to make the panel due to a family emergency, but she sent along a statement that I will reference here. Due to Julie's absence, the panel was a bit lopsided, as she represented the day to day reality and success of ecofashion over the last 2-3 years.

James Woudhuysen got the panel off to a rousing start as he blamed environmentalists for thinking too small, and was vociferous in trying to persuade the audience that the solution to our environmental issues shouldn't be in individual's hands, but turned over to corporate, scientific and government agencies who could make a real difference. Citing Adam Smith, Barack Obama and Thorstein Veblem, James said, "If you want to do something about the world, you ask the engineers to do it. Ask intelligent, specialized people. My first argument is that if you want to do something about CO2 go to energy sector, not the fashion sector."

This could a sensible argument, except for the fact that we live in a free-market capitalist society (or so we're told) and unfortunately, the energy sector has dragged its heels in moving away from fossil fuels, as that is where the short-term monetary gains are. Money hungry oil, gas and coal companies are not going to change their ways unless they're forced to. And who has the power to change policy? Why the American voter of course, that is, millions of individuals, voting with their dollars and at their ballot boxes. Of course change has to happen at the highest levels (where it can make the most significant change), but without the passionate, expressed will of millions of people, business as usual will continue. And in America, we vote with our dollars. "Green" has succeeded (and continues to) because people have learned about the irreparable harm we are doing to our own health and the health of future generations and we are demanding change, from the bottom up.

A shot of the audience L: A climate change skeptic and R: Yours Truly, Starre Vartan

The idea that the solutions to our planetary ills should be removed from the people's hands and thrust into those of what James calls "experts" is problematic on several levels. First of all, companies and governments are notoriously slow-moving, and change needs to be nimble and creative. Also, all forward progress about how we live (and certainly, shifting the focus of our energy production methods and consumption patterns is a massive movement) has always come from the grassroots. Civil rights, women's rights, animal rights; none of those movements were top-down, and so far, the environmental movement has been about a lot of dedicated people who care (from fashion designers to journalists to community activists to health care workers) toiling for years to educate and inspire the people (individuals) who are both consumers and involved in making new products and deciding how to package, ship and sell new stuff to us all.

Taking power from the people (James suggested greenies were running around exerting a lot of energy and alleviating guilt rather than making real change) and putting it in the hands of the wealthiest, most educated takes the power of debate and disagreement from the people and puts it squarely in the hands of those who already have (and routinely abuse) power and resources. It's the old fight between Democracy and Capitalism, wherein the former is supposed to temper the latter; taking away the individual and personal involvement cancels those natural checks and balances. Lastly, those big corporations that James says can make the biggest change? They are filled with individual people, who are inspired and educated in their communities, the places they shop and by their friends and families, which is why real change happens from within.

Back to the fashion. Jeffrey Hutchinson, the industry expert, said, "Consumerism is not bad or dead, luxury is not bad or dead and shopping in stores are not bad or dead. But significant course corrections must be made. How can we make retail sustainable? Green is just one part of that conversation. It's the rapid growth over past 20 years that is not sustainable," said Jeffrey. He then pointed out that both megastores and fast fashion were to blame for the unsustainable trends in the biz, but said that there were also great ideas out there, like pop-up stores. These temporary shopping destinations are ideal for a more sustainable fashion future because designers or large retailers can still have a place to showcase exciting new collections without expending resources on ever-expanding (and totally unnecessary) brick and mortar stores. Jeffrey advocated smaller stores, smaller collections, with an emphasis on making things more fabulous and special within those constraints.

I can see a future where each piece of clothing has a story, pop-up stores appearing in your city have a fun "let's go check it out" vibe similar to a travelling art exhibition, and shopping becomes an interaction with creative forces rather than a money-making fast fashion mill of togs that fall apart after a season.

Jeffrey said it was incumbent upon the consumers and fashion industry leaders to make change, "We work in a creative industry, so we must be creative in our solutions. reconnect with local communities and cultures. Not so fast, let's reconsider the pace of the growth, not so big, not so disposable, and not so indulgent."

Julie Gilhart of Barney's echoed this idea in her statement. "For the business of fashion to be sustainable, we need to acknowledge that fashion celebrates beauty. If the way we make beautiful clothing and accessories actually damages the natural environment and our precarious health within it, how can we enjoy this kind of so called beauty?"

Sandra Ballentine of the NY Times seemed to agree too, though she was skeptical about green. "It's about quality, integrity, authenticity, realness. I am so tired of the green PR; green this, sustainable that. I'm against that, I want to see a real conversation. Most often the 'eco' piece is a really amazing thing, and often means a craftsman that is making unique or one of a kind," said Sandra.

Fashion is evolving, and despite James Woudhuysen's view, it seems that change is coming from designers, passionate ecofashionistas who support them, and the behind-the-scenes folks who do the heavy lifting to get new clothes to us each season. Julie Gilhart makes the point: "Now and in the future, it's not really about being 'green', per se. I see the need to develop and sell fashion and consumer products, in general, which contain a greater level of consciousness. Period."

More coverage of the event on Elle.com and Scallywag and Vagabond.

And check out the great video coverage of the event by Emma Grady on Treehugger!

 

Follow Starre Vartan on Twitter: www.twitter.com/ecochickie

Comments

[lr08aiel]

Fashion is an industry geared towards responding to the latest trends so of course it's only logical that the fashion industry would respond accordingly to the green movement. However I must disagree with some audience members who made the argument that the fashion community was just hopping on the band wagon of the "next big thing." The fashion industry is filled with sensitive, curious, and insightful people who have a deep appreciation for the cultivation and preservation of the beauty in this world. I think we need to support these creative minds in their endeavors. While it may seem that fashion is not the most obvious industry to be at the forefront of the movement, it is filled with captivating and charismatic characters whose individual support will undoubtedly lead to greater publicity and a larger public following. Who wouldn't want to facilitate the spread of such a praise worthy cause? So instead of knocking fashion for using "green" as a marketing scam, we should applaud the industry for lending its clout to such an important movement.

[ocokel]

Every little bit helps. Of course greener fashion is a step in the right direction. I have to disagree with James' argument that these changes shouldn't be in the hands of individuals. If individual consumer choices are insignificant in the overal consumer atmosphere, then justify voting. Jeffrey put it best when he said "We work in a creative industry, so we must be creative in our solutions. reconnect with local communities and cultures. Not so fast, let's reconsider the pace of the growth, not so big, not so disposable, and not so indulgent." We need to be creative in solutions, we need to take responsibility for our choices, and we need to make better long term decisions.

[lr08aiel]

I have to disagree with James' argument that a change in our environment can only come from the big corporations. While it is vital to the survival of the eco-movement to get big business on board, as Starre pointed out, change like this must start from the grassroots level. Regarding whether fashion can ever really be sustainable - I am unsure. This is an industry that can trace its success directly to the fickleness of the human temperament. That being said, I must agree with Jeffery, that the key to sustainability in fashion is cutting back on the gross excess of the past few decades. We need massive retail buildings only in the major markets, not in every town in America. Jeffery's proposed solution of a pop-up store seems to have worked well for those in the past that have tried it. The key to sustainability in fashion is to eliminate trends like those flash in pan harem pants that you picked up at Forever 21 and trade them out for a truly timeless, well made trouser that may cost you more but will last more than one season. While this may cut back on designers' short term sales it will breed priceless customer loyalty and brand identification. Fashion needs to evolve, in the Darwinian sense, and its time to trim the fat - we must rid ourselves of any brands that do not produce quality pieces in an ethical manner.

[kimraeh]

Really, Really?!?! Are we seriously having this conversation...lets make hybrid cars affordable first and then tackle the priorities of "Greening" up the fashion industry.

Kim,
www.runwayrundown.com

[Adam Shake]

Green Fashion is an important part of not only the retail industry, but by it's own nature, it puts protection practices in place for workers as well as the planet. Being a "newer" industry, it also has the potential of creating jobs.

Anything that creates sustainability, health for people and planet, makes a profit and makes people feels good about themselves, is an integral part of a better supply chain.

Green Fashion needs to be taken seriously.

[Chris Baskind]

Green fashion is the future, from fairer labor to finding natural fabrics without cotton's enormous water footprint. But cost matters, too. It won't succeed until we can buy greener fashions at reasonable prices in big box stores. Right now, designers seem content with a thin sliver of the luxury market.

[mattgUP]

I hate it when people make the argument against small granular actions citing their insignificance. That is such a cop out. Clearly the impact of industry is going to far outweigh the actions of each individual however, that doesn't mean we shouldn't strive for sustainability in big and small arenas. In fact it's vital that we keep making strides in the small industries and in our own daily actions, if not for the actual environmental impact, then for the cultural effects of everyone acting in a more sustainable way and taking responsibility for their own actions!