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'Escape from the Land of Snows': A Portrait of Tibetan Faith Amid Crisis

Posted: 01/29/11 07:32 PM ET

Tibet is, in the West, a story of a small, occupied country. It's a story we understand perfectly -- a weak nation taken over and occupied by a more powerful one. This is, in a way, the American theme, the theme of 1776, when we threw off our own band of occupiers. The narrative has been repeated so many times in so many guises -- from our own misguided take-overs of places like Cuba, to our fight to free France and Poland in World War II -- that any American can understand Tibet in a phrase.

When I went to Lhasa in 2009 to research my book on the Dalai Lama's escape to freedom, I expected to be meet patriots almost exclusively. But I was wrong. The story of modern Tibet is in many ways the story not of nationalism but of Buddhism.

Tibet was for centuries the spiritual locus of the faith. It was a country with a self-professed sacred mission, to keep the flame of the dharma protected against all threats, foreign and domestic. That mission permeated the countryside and the streets of the capitol, Lhasa. It animated Tibetans' lives in a way that is almost incomprehensible to us today.

Then in 1950, Mao invaded across the Ghost River. The Chinese had a long and special relationship with Tibet going back centuries, and they saw Tibet as a breakaway province that had been cut off from the motherland by foreign intriguers. The Tibetans, of course, saw things differently.

At first Mao's occupation was mostly peaceful. The Chinese even did some good, dismantling the more abusive features of a semi-feudal system that kept some poor Tibetans in a condition close to bondage. They also spent money like mad -- the symbol of the early years of the Chinese presence was not the hammer and sickle, not Communism, but the silver coin. The combination worked for a few years.

Crucially, the nominal leader of Tibet, the naive and isolated Dalai Lama, then only 15, believed Mao's promises that he would keep the native features of Tibetan culture while grafting them onto an enlightened socialism. But soon Mao began to show his true hand. Public humiliations began, followed by land seizures and horrible atrocities -- a wave of terror spread over Tibet from the east.

In Tibet this campaign had a special feature. It wasn't only the rich landowners who were targeted viciously, it was the monks and the abbots of the great Tibetan monasteries.

In the March of 1959 -- in spring, the season that has brought so many revolutions -- the Tibetans rose up, believing the Chinese were about to kidnap or kill the Dalai Lama. The Dalai Lama fled on foot and on horseback across the Himalayas towards India and freedom, in a 17-day-escape that made headlines everywhere and turned him into a global personality. Behind him, his people died by the thousands in a bloody, lopsided battle.

What struck me in interviewing survivors of the uprising was its religious undercurrent: If His Holiness had been a secular leader only, most likely Tibetans wouldn't have raised a finger to protect him. Many of them distrusted the aristocrats and bureaucrats who ran the government -- they were seen (correctly) as corrupt allies of the Chinese. It was what the Dalai Lama meant to them as people of faith that caused ordinary Tibetans to risk their lives.

Teenagers who had never been particularly patriotic ran to the Norbulingka, His Holiness's summer palace, to act as human barriers. Older men opened their shirts as they stood in front of the palace gates, daring the Chinese soldiers to gun them down. Monks in the colleges grabbed rifles, dooming themselves to a reincarnation as a lesser being for violating the Buddhist maxim against violence.

None of these people had taken up arms in 1950 when the Chinese invaded their borders. Nationalism didn't rouse a majority of them to fight. The notion of Tibet was too diffuse. Many Tibetans in 1950 didn't even speak the same language; each region had its own dialect that made it impossible to communicate with someone from another province. The only thing that united the far-flung populations was their love of tsampa, the roasted barley that is a staple across the country. And the figure of the Dalai Lama.

I spoke to monks who now live in tiny rooms in the hills of Dharamsala, India, and many told me the same thing: In fighting the Chinese in Lhasa, they believed they were protecting His Holiness as he fled toward freedom. They believed if he was captured, the dharma would be irreparably harmed. Death was a small price to pay if they stop that from happening.

And in talking about the fighting and the horrors they'd seen in the uprising and the often lethal trail to India (80,000 Tibetans escaped in the days and weeks after the rebellion), these men and women rarely mentioned themselves. They didn't dwell on what 1959 had cost them personally. Some seemed puzzled when I asked that typical American question: When you saw an abbott shot down, or your sister killed, what were you feeling? They were confused, and asked me to repeat myself.

These Tibetans had so given themselves over to their beliefs that they quite literally couldn't comprehend what I was saying. I found that quite moving. How many of us could contemplate disaster with such selflessness?

Tibet is a small nation that was occupied by a rising power. Historically, that's a common tragedy. But the Tibetans' grace in enduring it is peculiar to themselves.

 
 
 
Tibet is, in the West, a story of a small, occupied country. It's a story we understand perfectly -- a weak nation taken over and occupied by a more powerful one. This is, in a way, the American theme...
Tibet is, in the West, a story of a small, occupied country. It's a story we understand perfectly -- a weak nation taken over and occupied by a more powerful one. This is, in a way, the American theme...
 
 
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12:19 PM on 02/03/2011
Quote: "...the more abusive features of a semi-feudal system that kept some poor Tibetans in a condition close to bondage..."

That is a pretty timid description of the conditions in Tibet under the feudal system. That system was as oppressive and brutal as any - including the Chinese takeover and even though pictures and reports of those days exist, they are never shown by Western media (one exception in - of all places - was a one time German television report a few years ago). Gauging of eyes, putting people in leg irons, virtual slavery - that was the daily expreience of ordinary Tibetans - in those days.

That does not excuse the destruction of much of Tibetan culture, especially by the Red Guards - but then, this went on all over China and was not unique to Tibet.

While today the Dalai Lama rightfully is much revered, he came from a most oppressive feudal system.
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Thankgoodness
01:36 PM on 02/03/2011
The Dalai Lama would be the first to admit that Tibet was far from a utopia, but a feudal system that hurt a lot of people.

again, like you said, it doesn't justify the killing of over 1.5 million people or the destruction of 6,000 monasteries, and the current horrific conditions that they live under today.
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10:16 PM on 02/02/2011
When one Dalai Lama dies, there is a search for his reincarnated spirit in another body. From the time of the death until the new Dalai Lama reaches a certain age, (17? 21?) the government of Tibet is run by a Regent. What happened during the young life of this Dalai Lama was an internal power struggle between two men who each wanted to Regent, leaving the country of Tibet open to the incursions of the Chinese. What I wonder about now is what wll happen to Tibet when this Dalai Lama dies. Will the Chinese allow the search for the reincarnation? If he is identified, what then? Time is on the side of the China. I fear the death of this Dalai Lama will be the end of Tibetan Buddhism.
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Thankgoodness
01:37 PM on 02/03/2011
possible, but not likely.
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Cindbird
03:37 AM on 02/05/2011
The Dalai Lama has already stated that he will NOT be re-born in any area controlled by the Chinese. What will happen is what happened when the 10th Panchen Lama died. His Holiness the Dalai Lama named a young boy, Gendun Choeki Nyima as the 11th reincarnation of the Panchen Lama. He was 6 years old. Not long after, he and his family were taken into custody by the Chinese government and placed under house arrest, with him becoming the youngest political prisoner in the world. He hasn't been seen since. The Chinese named another boy, Gyaltsen Norbu as the "Official Reincarnation". Everyone expects the Chinese to do the same when His Holiness the Dalai Lama dies. Tibetan Buddhism is not dependent on just the Dalai Lama. Many high level Lamas have come to the West and there are many Western Teachers who have earned the Geshe degree, similar to Doctorate of Buddhist Philosophy. Will it hurt the Tibetan cause? Sure. But it won't mean the end of the struggle nor of Tibetan Buddhism.
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SitandStay
Lorenzo&BushH8ter
05:27 PM on 01/30/2011
Buddha never said what the truth was or how to end suffering, but that you must seek it and find it for yourself....if you want. Buddhism is the only logical avenue I have heard of....if you are a person that tends to test theories.

Being brought up as a Christian and since childhood never "got" the holy trinity (Santa never should have been a co-conspirator), converted to Judaism, Catholicism and finally Buddhism. The only one that made total sense and gave me an acceptance of human beings was Buddhism. If you don't love/understand yourself, you are not going to love/understand others.
I don't think any other belief allows for people to be accepted and embraced as a fellow inhabitant on this planet like Buddhism does.

Chinas behavior is like pirranha (?) in a feeding frenzie, not unlike everwhere else.....we all have such a long way to go.
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Chris Fraas
The truth is hard because its ... the truth.
05:30 PM on 01/31/2011
Um, yes Buddha did say what the end of suffering was, the Eightfold Path -- it's part of the Four Noble Truths. (The end of suffering is following the Eightfold Path [Depending on the translation you are reading, it normally the 3rd or 4th truth]).
Anyway, I appreciate what you are trying to say, though, in that Buddhism is the only logical, not faith-based way of living in the religious word there is.
That's my 2 cents.
Metta.
04:41 PM on 01/30/2011
why does the title to this piece have the word "faith" in it?
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spilkus
I'm in the art world, for Pete's sake.
01:13 PM on 01/31/2011
I don't know, something about laying down your life in the belief that it might be beneficial to humanity?
06:06 PM on 01/31/2011
that's not what faith in the west means.......if only I could snap my fingers and turn all fundamentalists christians and jews and muslims into buddhists...
03:12 PM on 01/30/2011
Tibet could benefit from Westerners discontinuing their obsessions with "peaceful," "spiritual," symbols of Buddhist religion and doing one of two things: a) actually seeing the social and economic conditions in Tibet, and helping to address that, or, b) leaving other people alone.
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Sam Badger
02:45 PM on 01/30/2011
Buddhism is probably the most logical and philosophically sound mainstream religion in the world. It is also not contradictory to Marxist ideology, at least not necessarily. That the Chinese tried to force reform on Tibet at the expense of the Cultural and political demands of the Tibetan people, and based it on the dubious claim of 1800s Chinese-era borders, was a reification of various Imperialist dogmas that maoists, in theory, are supposed to reject.
04:03 PM on 01/30/2011
What exactly made the Chinese border claims from the 1800s "dubious"? Are they more dubious than any other country's border claims from the same period? Or are you proposing that Marxists 'in theory' should reject the notion of preserving inherited borders altogether? If it's the latter, what was there to keep the Chinese from EXPANDING their reach beyond their 19th century borders (as the US certainly had done, in the case of Hawaii for instance)? Or is your idea of rejecting old imperialistic dogmas limited to giving up sovereignty only?

Post-imperial China was an utter mess. It had lost its north-eastern provinces (Manchuria) to the Japanese; Tibet was on its own; Mongolia and Sinkiang sought independence thanks to Soviet backing; warlords ruled the south and the west; the Communists and the Nationalists fought back and forth over what's left of the country in the east.

The semi-unified China that emerged in 1949 under Communist rule was considerably smaller than the one claimed by the Imperial Court before 1910 (or for that matter by Chiang's KMT government), and faced constant military threat from without for decades thereafter. The actions undertaken by the Chinese in Tibet must be viewed in that context to be understood.

It's all about surviving in a hostile environment, and showing your adversaries and your own people that the era of territorial concessions is over. Ideology was not a significant factor. Whoever was victorious in the Chinese Civil War would've done the exact same thing.
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Sam Badger
04:40 PM on 01/30/2011
"What exactly made the Chinese border claims from the 1800s "dubious"?"

Because it was based on military force ("protection"), just like the dubious claims of Britain on Hong Kong.

"Are they more dubious than any other country's border claims from the same period?"

Of course not, most nations in the 1800s based their borders on principles which nations today would reject. This is why Britain and France no longer occupy most of Africa.

"Or are you proposing that Marxists 'in theory' should reject the notion of preserving inherited borders altogether ?"

Yes, they should reject that notion. Marx was an internationalist and didn't believe in protecting the sovereignty of one "special" people (ie, the Han Chinese) at the expense of a different people (ie, the Tibetans), and the "working class" is a notion which transcends national boundaries. The point is that Mao's party didn't want to just build a "People's Republic", they wanted to build a "Mandarin-speaking Han Chinese Republic".

"The semi-unifi ed China that emerged in 1949 under Communist rule was considerab ly smaller .... The actions undertaken by the Chinese in Tibet must be viewed in that context to be understood ."

True, but they faced that threat in the North with the USSR and on the Korean Peninsula with the USA, not along their border with India. And the Dalai Lama showed a clear intent on being a part of China, just an autonomous part; the Chinese should have respected Tiben wishes.
05:46 PM on 01/30/2011
"but they faced that threat in the North with the USSR and on the Korean Peninsula with the USA, not along their border with India."

CIA trained some Tibetan terrorists at Camp Hale here in the U.S. and conducted covert operations along Tibet's border. CIA also trianed Muslim terrorists e.g. Osama bin Laden.
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Ron Broxted
02:41 PM on 01/30/2011
Peking must end its illegal occupation of Tibet and its genocidal policies.
01:21 PM on 01/30/2011
The 1776 analogy is silly. What happened during the War of Independence is the equivalent of a bunch of Han Chinese settlers in Lhasa declaring independence from Beijing, then proceeding to annex the rest of Tibet for themselves at the expense of the 'savages', through actions that made anything the Chinese had done (or have been accused of doing) to the Tibetans look positively enlightened.

A somewhat more apt comparison would be that of Hawaiian annexation. Hawaii became a state (i.e., fully annexed) right around the same time Tibet was being annexed into China proper. Someone might argue that Hawaii's annexation was democratic. But ask yourself this: If Han Chinese settlers had overthrown the native Tibetan government, then "voted" to make Tibet a province of China, would that have made the take-over of Tibet any more palatable to the natives, or to you?

The Chinese have their own justifications for what they did, which the author airily dismisses, but his hollier-than-thou attitude is severely misguided.

China is as likely to give up its de facto and DE JURE sovereignty in Tibet in response to pompous moralizing lectures from Western activists as the kettle is likely to be shamed into attempting to bleach itself white by a nagging pot.

If we really want to show the Chinese (and all other 'settler' nations) how to right past wrongs, let's restore native rule and 'repatriate' the descendants of all immigrants, not just in Hawaii, but on the entire continent.
04:19 PM on 01/30/2011
In case anyone still harbors any illusion that Tibetans are to the Chinese what the colonists were to the British "invaders" (as if the word "colonists" alone is insufficient to shatter this most absurd of comparisons), they need to look no further than the sacred text of our Declaration of Independence. Among the list of grievances against King George was this:

"He has excited domestic insurrections amongst us, and has endeavoured to bring on the inhabitants of our frontiers, the merciless Indian Savages, whose known rule of warfare, is an undistinguished destruction of all ages, sexes and conditions."

Any wonder that 13,000 of these 'savages' chose to side with the Redcoats in that war?
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wakeupyouall
12:34 PM on 01/30/2011
TheTibetan dispora a tragedy for the people of tibetan has given the world a buddism that is beyond time, space and country. The Tibetan religion believes in turning the other cheek and letting karma ripen.It has given us an example of a ruler who truly can see not only the suffering of his own people but the suffering of his enemy. They and the chinese have been at this for thousand of years. He is the world Dali Lama and the world is a much richer for it. Buddhist meditation is being proved by our science to aliviate depression and make people happier. The conflict has given the world a great gift of a enlighten leader and a means to end suffering in the world.
11:07 AM on 02/03/2011
"...see not only the suffering of his own people but the suffering of his enemy." Excellent point; hard to do.
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11:01 AM on 01/30/2011
The comparison of Tibet with Poland is a worthwhile one on many levels: both victims of much more powerful neighbours, both subjected to ideological indoctrination, no longer masters in their own homes but, nevertheless, held together by a strong belief, Catholicism in Poland and Buddhism in the case of Tibet. Neither could expect other nations of the world to come to their assistance. Their destiny was and is in their own hands and sometimes in history as in life the only recall is to endurance.

In the long run, long after the two-faced ideological machine that is capitalism/capitalism has run out of steam through lack of raw materials, an ultimate Ponzi-scheme gone awry, they will still have their beliefs to guide them through to the true end of history.

The 'West' must take care that it does not use up the little spiritual capital which it still possesses in some mistaken belief that it is somehow rational where traditional belief systems are based on irrationality. They should visit Aquinas for help on that topic. It is, anyway, a topic for elsewhere.
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GeorgeBurnsWasRight
My micro-bio is running on empty.
05:24 PM on 01/30/2011
In your second paragraph, did you perhaps mean to type communism/capitalism?
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02:47 PM on 01/31/2011
Thanks.
That's what I did mean. It seems that one cannot edit after posting on this site. I'm a new boy here.
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Indigo1941
Time Traveler
11:00 AM on 01/30/2011
The times have changed. The Dalai Lama himself has aged and sees things from a global perspective he did not have when he left Tibet n 1959. A younger generation of Tibetans want to fight their way back while an older generation of Tibetans, exhausted by their plight, are prepared to quietly wait it out and pray for a peaceful resolution. One blessing comes out of all this that is not foregrounded as well as it could be. The Tibetan tradition of Himalayan Buddhism is a remarkable continuation of the scholarship of Nalanda, a site in northeast India now abandoned but for centuries the major center of Buddhist studies and practice. The monks fled into the safety of the Himalayas as the Moghul invaded and finally Nalanda was abandoned but the scholarship was protected and continued into Tibet where it flourished. Now another invasion, this time from the Chinese, drives that same tradition out of the Himalayas and into the big wide world. From the Moghul invasion, the benefit was the codification of ancient Buddhist texts among the scholarly lamas of Tibet. From the Chinese invasion of Tibet, the benefit is the dispersal of all those ancients and all that scholarship into the vast world in which we live and practice. I wonder . . . does it bother the spirit of Mao Tse Tung and of the ruling Beijing Communists that their invasion has blessed the world with a fuller and systematic presentation of the Buddha's teachings? Lucky us!
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maveet
Needed: DemFems 4 Congress
04:42 PM on 02/03/2011
F&F Indigo. Namaste.
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Yepperday
10:44 AM on 01/30/2011
Huff Post "editors," it's *amidst* crisis--not amid.

Thank you,

A Professional Editor
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ZenSufi
There is a secret in the Heart of Man.
12:59 PM on 01/30/2011
I think the editors were meditating on Amida Buddha while editing this article, thus the confusion. Or perhaps they are Jewish and were reciting the Amidah prayer. Or maybe they were JuBus (Jewish-Buddhists) and doing both.
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Kevin Atlanta
Active Citizen 54
10:29 AM on 01/30/2011
The Buddhist traditions of being "all-one" with everything is the foundation of great joy so suffering is eliminated.
The Western Holy Trinity with the endemic "Others" is the dichotomy that Buddhists don't grasp.
A remarkable faith of acceptance, live and let live with a strong personal creed of right thinking, right speech and right actions rather than the cumbersome 10 Commandments that even the Cults of Jesus Inc fail to follow.  Bearing false witness and all that rot.
When you are the "other" the world becomes a remarkable place.
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SitandStay
Lorenzo&BushH8ter
05:11 PM on 01/30/2011
F&F. ATL SitandStay
09:32 AM on 01/30/2011
Maybe nationalism isn't a big deal to monks who the author interviewed but Tibetan nationalism is certainly a big issue today, and one which is dividing Dalai Lama and other younger Tibetans. The religious angle is the one which Dalai Lama has created in order to generate good will. Tibetans are known through most of the history as warriors. If people actually read news from India you can see that many younger Tibetans have been rejecting to Dalai Lama's pacifist angle and instead embracing the nationalist angle.

It's also odd to see the author seeing Tibet being compared to the US when Tibet's situation is
a lot closer to the native americans who were slaughtered by the settlers in order to form the great America today. America's general reaction towards Taiwan is telling in that Taiwan was also invaded by the KMT, who were also Han Chinese but were against Mao after WWII. Though some 40 thousand indigenous people were killed by the KMT the US has no problems whatsoever in supporting the KMT in order to contain a communist China. The truth is that if China were not a communist country the US would of happily went along with China going into Tibet as a sign of declining communism.
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09:13 AM on 01/30/2011
It may be a slight digression from the main topic of your article but can you remind me when America fought to free Poland? Was it during WWII or just after it, perhaps, to prevent the Soviets from occupying Warsaw? I do not recollect any such attempts. I do, however, remember Poles fighting with and supporting the Allies by land, sea and air as well as fighting through its Home Army (AK) in their own country. They paid the bitter price of being subjugated by both the Nazis and the Soviets. They were on the side of the Allies only to lose their freedom at home along with great tracts of territory. It would seem that it fought in vain.

The Soviets paid the price in lives during the War and demanded and took the lion's share of the territory. They were the one's who won the War.

This comment in no way seeks to detract from or belittle those brave Americans who fought and gave their lives to free much of Western Europe including France. Its intention is merely to correct erroneous information and impressions. False memory syndrome ultimately does justice to no one.

Eventually Poland did win some form of freedom and self-government by its own efforts in 1989, sometime after WWII, I'm sure you will agree.