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Stephanie Soechtig

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The Story Behind Cosmetics

Posted: 07/02/10 01:36 PM ET

On a recent trip overseas I was shocked to learn that the same exact brand of lotion I use everyday has a different ingredient list over in Europe. Not only different ingredients, but perhaps even safer ingredients. And it turns out, it's not just my lotion that may be safer in Europe. The same may be true for our shaving cream, toothpaste, deodorant -- even the toys that European children are playing with may be safer than those of their American counterparts.

The alarming reality is that 90% of the ingredients in our personal care products have never been evaluated for safety by the FDA or any other independent publicly accountable institution. The European Union has found 1,100 of these ingredients of such concern that they are banned from products sold in Europe.

If skin is our biggest organ, shouldn't we be more aware of what we feed it everyday?

We've often said that our bottled water documentary Tapped is really a microcosm for some of the much larger issues facing our country -- one of which being lack of regulation. We were stunned to find out that there is only one person at the FDA responsible for monitoring all the bottled water in the U.S -- and they only work on that part time. As it turns out, when it comes to our personal care products we'd be lucky to have even one person at the FDA regulating the chemicals found in our everyday products.

The way the Cosmetics/Personal Care industry works is so illogical that I'm going to break it down for you in the simplest of bullet points. Even then, I warn you, the logic is so asinine you will be inclined not to believe me - as such I'll include lots of links so you can see the source information for yourself.

  • The FDA is the agency in charge of regulating cosmetics (yes, it is the Food and Drug Administration and why it has authority over cosmetics is in itself asinine but we'll leave that discussion for another day).
  • With the exception of color additives the FDA has no authority to regulate cosmetic products or ingredients. Yes, you heard me correctly -- the agency in charge of regulating the cosmetics industry wasn't actually given the authority to do any regulating.
  • The cosmetic firms are responsible for making sure their products are safe for us. Again, no, your eyes are not playing tricks on you -- the firms that make the cosmetics (and the money off the cosmetics) are the same ones charged with determining their safety. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel -- a self-policing, voluntary "safety" panel -- was established in 1976 by the Cosmetics industry trade group in an effort to discourage legislation that would change the law and allow the FDA more authority over their product.

In the simplest of terms, the American regulatory system operates on an "innocent until proven guilty" model. We assume it's safe if the manufacturers tell us it's safe; and until enough scientists raise enough flags to demonstrate otherwise (as was the case most recently with Bisphenol A) then the product remains. The European Union, on the other hand, operates on a precautionary principle wherein it takes action on potential risks. As a result the EU has dwarfed the U.S. for the past 5 years in protecting its citizens by requiring a scientific review of all products "intended to be placed in contact with various parts of the human body." The result is a ban of 1,100 ingredients including any and all CMRs -- Carcinogens, Mutagens or Reproductive toxins.

  To insure the same prohibitions enacted by the European Union didn't cross the pond, the cosmetics industry spent upwards of $600,000 lobbying against legislation in California that would require cosmetic companies to disclose the presence of ingredients that may cause cancer or birth defects. Proctor and Gamble alone spent $90,000 lobbying against the Safe Cosmetics Bill which wouldn't even prohibit the use of these chemicals, but merely require disclosing that they are in the product. The irony of all ironies is these very same cosmetic companies had already reformulated their products to comply with the EU which meant that the popular diaper rash cream you bought in California could still contain sodium borate, which has been linked to problems with testicular development, while the same brand in France could not.

It's easy to hear all of this and feel discouraged -- just more bad news about things that may kill us. Most people ask me, "well what can I do about it anyway?" While it's true that there seems to be a new boogeyman around every corner these days -- bottled water, cell phones, beef -- we are always presented with the same two options to any problem: we can do something or we can do nothing. Frankly I think doing anything, no matter how small a gesture, is better than doing nothing at all.

  • Support Senator Lautenberg's Safe Chemicals Act which would regulate toxic chemicals in the U.S. This bill would require manufacturers to provide information about the chemicals in our products rather than relying on the current innocent until proven guilty method.
  • Support the Environmental Working Group and other nonprofit groups that fill in the holes left by government. You can support them directly or we'll donate of every Tapped DVD sold if you enter the promotional code "Cosmetics" when you check out.
  • To find out what's lurking in your favorite products visit the EWG's Cosmetics Database -- the most comprehensive easy-to-use guide out there to determine how toxic your products may be for you (and your family).
  • The Good Guide is another great database that allows you to search for cosmetics as well as certain foods (great source for checking what's in your baby's food), household products and toys.
  • Forward the above Story Behind Cosmetics video to all your friends and help spread the word on how to buy better products.

For more information on the story of cosmetics please visit us at theeverydayactivist.com.

 

Follow Stephanie Soechtig on Twitter: www.twitter.com/@tappedthemovie

 
 
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11:01 AM on 07/07/2010
The European IFRA has destroyed the perfume industry precisely BECAUSE they have limited natural ingredients like oakmoss, various citruses, jasmine, and even eugenol....which we EAT in cloves; and long-established chemicals like hydroxycitronellal.

They have done this less for "safety" reasons (those substances have been in use for a century, in some cases) but because without them, perfume must be made with patented new molocules solely owned by the big perfume houses.

There are actually only 5 or 6 massive firms who produce most of the world's major perfume brands. Different companies license their own brands (Dior, Chanel, etc.), but they're all produced by the same megafirms.

The Prada perfume mentioned below already conforms to the new IFRA licensing standards. And Eternity has been a problem from day one because it contains mass amounts of the chemical calone, which gives it the harsh "fresh" note most people hate.

All big name perfumes now conform to IFRA standards, even American ones, because they won't be able to market in Europe if they don't. Go to any designer perfume counter and you can test test the sad results of those "safety" restrictions. The horrible scent most leave lingering on the skin is a RESULT of ingredients that are now restricted to expensive chemicals.

The quality of fine perfumes is dead, lost to industry greed. Small niche houses provide better-made scents, but even they will run into problems finding quality ingredients soon. So goes a greed-driven industry.
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HUFFPOST BLOGGER
Alison Rose Levy
Connect the Dots www.healthjournalist.com
11:10 PM on 07/06/2010
Welcome to the US of A. It's not only beauty products that are not regulated. No chemicals are regulated. Excuse me, five out of 80,000 are. If anyone is puzzled about why that is, let me ask you one simple question: Who do you think has more pull with regulators and elected officials? Industries with deep pockets and little concern for health? Or citizens who don't inform themselves or take action at key votes with major health consequences?

Anyone reading this who cares to inform themselves can go to: www.healthjournalistblog.com to read my health +environment blogs, and listen to radio programs on detox and chemical safety. To take action signup for my free ezine which features blogs, radio links, and action alerts.

Alison
www.healthjournalist.com
12:36 PM on 07/05/2010
lot of the ingredients in american healthcare products cause cancer or so I've read and heard. With my knowledge of how America truely works with people being cattle, I would suspect the elite want to keep producing diseases because it is a huge industry here (like the war on drugs, the fight on terrorism, etc). If no more Aids, cancer, diseases of all types, a whole industry would go away and left behind would be people sitting there who need to be kept busy and controlled.
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05:40 AM on 07/05/2010
But the money, the money! How are we to maintain our vision of capitalism if we don't allow any and all businesses to make all the money they want, any way they can and live by caveat emptor alone? It works so well to keep the citizenry poor, illiterate, and desperate for superficial satisfaction (Be thin! Be pretty with this cream! You need these jeans! You are only a patriot if you buy this product!), and then no one pays any attention to the things that matter. Heck, with the doctrine of prosperity (a real topic in evangelical churches), even god is used to see that most people should be sick, poor, and servants to the machine.
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Irene Rubaum-Keller
author of the book Foodaholic, psychotherapist
08:07 PM on 07/04/2010
It's scary and I am shocked even more by how little people seem to care. Thank you for getting the word out. Europe is ahead of us in so many ways! Aspartame is really bad for us and yet, it is not banned yet. All the studies done proving it is safe were done by the makers of Aspartame. We are on our own, for sure!
01:58 PM on 07/04/2010
This information is really important. Thank you for reporting on the discrepancy in ingredients. I learned about this from Slow Death by Rubber Duck and am now warning everyone I know. Many synthetic chemicals, introduced since the 1970s, have proved bad for people and accumulate in our bodies. We need to all demand that our legislators vote for the Safe Chemicals Act, proposed by Senator Lautenberg!
11:29 PM on 07/03/2010
I wrote about Toxic Cosmetics for Mindful Metropolis. Read my article, Toxic Beauty: http://digital.mindfulmetropolis.com/publication/?i=36984&p=33
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08:52 PM on 07/03/2010
The answer to this problem may lie in making our own products. As a person with severe allergies to 'something' in laundry detergent, I began 10 years ago making my own laundry soap.
Then I learned how to make face creams and herbal salves.
I use Dr. Bronner's peppermint soap on my hair and 'condition' it with vinegar mixed 50% with regular old water. My hair, scalp, face and even my neck and back no longer break out or itch from dandruff.
Googling this will give you some exciting ideas on how to make some of your own cosmetics.
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Halsey
"There is a price to pay for speaking the truth. T
01:56 PM on 07/03/2010
Here's the link. This is only ONE perfume (I almost had to have a surgery postponed, the nurse was wearing Prada. I had to insist she leave; but knew she came back in as I awoke with a headache that would down an elephant (and it was NOT from the mild Versed used to remove a chemo port). (yes, this is obviously a very important topic for me, it's so hard to get people to understand my strange allergy to whatever benzo--blah--blah in these scents. It's not like the smell is offensive, it's whatever the chemical do to me that is debilitating).
11:35 AM on 07/04/2010
I had a similar experience in the hospital. Nauseated from morphine, two nurses aides came in wearing cheap, drugstore cologne that in itself was nauseating and lingered in the room when they left. I complained to the hospital that staff that interacts with patients should not be allowed to wear perfumes for many obvious reasons. Seems like a no brainer to me.
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Halsey
"There is a price to pay for speaking the truth. T
01:50 PM on 07/03/2010
A quicky google search found an article, part copied here: "...Lovers looking for the perfect Valentine's gift should think twice before giving a bottle of toxic chemicals to their sweethearts. Recent analysis of Calvin Klein's ``Eternity Eau de Parfum´´ (Eternity) by an industry laboratory specializing in fragrance chemistry revealed 41 ingredients. These include some known to be toxic to the skin, respiratory tract, nervous, and reproductive systems, and others known to be carcinogens; no toxicity data are available on several ingredients, while data on most are inadequate. Additionally, some ingredients are volatile and a source of indoor air pollution. Since 1995, several consumers have complained to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) of neurological and respiratory problems due to Eternity.
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Alexandra Mandelis
Occupy.
10:22 PM on 07/03/2010
Considering the regulation of other carginogens and pollutants (e.g. tobacco smoke, nuclear waste) I am shocked to hear this.

Thanks for the info and the links :)
08:47 AM on 07/03/2010
wow, i didn't know some this, thank you!
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edejan
12:20 AM on 07/03/2010
Another example of the fox watching the hen house. Business as usual in America.
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Halsey
"There is a price to pay for speaking the truth. T
03:28 PM on 07/02/2010
I am not allergic to dust, pollens, cat or dog hair; but one distant "whiff" of some perfumes (or perfumed hair/body)products will, literally, within seconds send my head spinning, and force immediate nausea into my stomach. I don't sneeze, I wobble and can't think. I have to hurry ASAP home, shower to wash even the remnants of a woman (usually) in line in front of me off my entire body, hair and clothing. I KNOW many think me neurotic; but it's a very real, very debilitating effect. The worst seem to be the more modern, expensive perfumes (I did google incredients for Eternity and OMG, nothing but toxins). More children with asthma (all those plug in fresheners are toxic). I can no more get in a car with a "hanging" air freshener than fly to the moon, I will be ill for hours. I have to by fragrance free, hypo-allergenic cosmestics; but sometimes I can even tell if they've changed my shampoo. This is serious business for some of us (and I think the numbers are growing). Thank you for the links. I am already a sad believer. I fear perfume more than terrorists; sounds extreme but it's true.
11:21 PM on 07/03/2010
I hear you! I don't react as strongly as you do to perfume, but it does make my nose stop up immediately. I've had to change seats during concerts to get away from women seated near me who are drenched in strong perfume, and hold my breath in elevators to avoid inhaling the darn stuff. I always look for the side entrance to department stores so I can avoid going through the smelly cosmetics department. I practically run away if any employee heads for me with a perfume sample.