A stroll along Alamos' cobbled lanes, porticoed walkways and Andalusian courtyards takes you back to the 17th and 18th centuries, when the silver mines of the nearby Sierras made this city one of the richest spots on Earth.
Years of work and millions of dollars have revamped the Malecon into an eye-popping, 12-block-long art show peppered by dozens of sculptures, mosaics and paintings along with all kinds of indoor and outdoor galleries.
You may have to squint to find these spots on the map -- if they show up at all -- but look for them about half-way down the west coast of Mexico. What's happening there? Playa Espiritu is going to be the country's next tropical Eden.
As more people, mostly mildly perturbed Caucasians, stumble into the café, the rain intensifies, prompting the recitation of precipitation history from Señor Clavo: "It has only rained twice in the past year, amigo, for ten minutes each."