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Where Your Favorite Foods Really Come From

Posted: 03/ 7/2011 12:39 pm

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Every St. Patrick's Day, millions of Irish-Americans celebrate with green beer, "Kiss me, I'm Irish" buttons, and corned beef and cabbage, the traditional fare of their Irish kinfolk. Right? Wrong. In fact, traveling around Ireland, locals may balk if you insist this American-Irish meal is a true representation of Irish culture. Until the 20th century, most Irish couldn't afford corned beef -- it's more likely that people enjoyed Colcannon, a dish of boiled potatoes and cabbage mixed with butter, milk and garlic. Corned beef and cabbage is not the only seemingly traditional ethnic dish that got its start in a totally different place than the culture most people associate it with.

How does this happen? Lynne Olver, a reference librarian who manages and contributes to The Food Timeline, a web site that tracks the history of food and its origins, has some answers. "Food morphing is as old as human kind," she says. "The glorious table is set by explorers, invaders, crusaders, travelers, missionaries, settlers, immigrants, outcasts, returning GIs, savvy restaurateurs and visionary chefs."

It's not news to anyone that Americans can take a cuisine, turn it on its head, and pretend like it's always been that way. You find hard-shell tacos at Taco Bell -- filled with some controversial beef -- but not in Mexico. The nation may be the great melting pot, but every culture borrows from other cultures to make something its own. Tempura, now a Japanese staple, more likely originated in medieval Portugal with some influence from 17-century China. Indian menu favorite chicken tikka masala, whose origin was once up for British Parliamentary debate, may actually have been invented in Glasgow, Scotland.

After some eye-opening research (et tu, apple pie?) and feedback from Olver, it turns out the number of nontraditional traditional dishes are probably countless! Now more than ever, cultures the world over share, add, subtract, and change eating habits and traditions until an extraordinary hybrid like gyros, French toast and smoothies emerge. Fusion food isn't a new, trendy way to describe obvious cross-cultural dishes. It's as old as humanity.

- Peggy Bourjaily, The Daily Meal

More stories from The Daily Meal:
"Gourmet Ghettos" of Other Cities
10 Best iPad Food Apps
Miracle Weight-Loss Foods: Fact or Fiction?
7 Places to Shop Like a Chef

Chicken Francese
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Is it French or is it Italian? The debate need not rage any further because it's American. The first mention of chicken Francese is in a 1970 restaurant review from no less than the New York Times. Oh breaded, fried, lemony goodness, of course you're American. This is the fry capital of the world, isn't it? Well, maybe further research would prove otherwise.

Related: A Tribute to the Everlasting Beauty of Chicken Fried Steak
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Every St. Patrick's Day, millions of Irish-Americans celebrate with green beer, "Kiss me, I'm Irish" buttons, and corned beef and cabbage, the traditional fa...
Every St. Patrick's Day, millions of Irish-Americans celebrate with green beer, "Kiss me, I'm Irish" buttons, and corned beef and cabbage, the traditional fa...
 
 
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03:35 PM on 03/21/2011
In terms of the Chicken Francaise, my Italian great-aunt who is now 96, claims to have learned to make it from her mother- born 1889 in Naples, Italy. I'm not sure it's a family recipe or a regional one, but I'd certainly place it in Italy in the early century:)
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KDMac
It's called sarcasm, Genius.
03:43 PM on 03/11/2011
This has to be one of the nicest conversations I've seen on HP : D
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Fuddgate
Some assembly required
10:45 PM on 03/10/2011
Some of my favorite foods come from my own garden. It's time to start germinating tomato and pepper seeds! I make some of the best salsa around. I just need to get those seeds started. Colorado's growing season is only 4 months- (Denver) 5/20-9/20. That's why I start them under CFL's inside. Brandy wine and Black Crim tomatoes are some exotics I'm going to try this time, along with some Habaneros and Hungarian wax peppers.
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Sabrina DAmico
09:20 AM on 03/10/2011
When my Italian family makes spaghetti & meatballs or chicken parm, they call it American food. In fact, there are plenty of Italian-American dishes we've introduced to our family in Italy. Italian-American food has become incredibly iconic, even in Italy.
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Candace8383
08:23 AM on 03/11/2011
i agree but we call it pizza parlor food its not Italian i am married to an American ( you can hear how i am saying that) so i object when Italian food is portrayed ad fatty of carb loaded you didt eat a large plate of pasta, it was is a small serving, after the vegetable dish and before the meat no plate was overflowing with anything, in my up bringing it was a plate of lets say pasta fazool ( ok ok fagioli) or broccoli rave or escarole then some pasta then some meat /fish then a salad then fruit and nuts then maybe a sweet . Grandpa sat there cutting fruit and handing it out to us kids oh yeah and even very young we had peaches in wine a little every week but we had it
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Sabrina DAmico
11:49 AM on 03/11/2011
Cutting up fruit & passing it around...peaches in his wine...that's just like my Nonno! :)
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Fran Jaime
Yo Soy 132!
12:51 AM on 03/10/2011
Taco bell lasted about a year in Mexico. Everybody here was horrified at the "tacos." Part of Mexico's mestizo cuisine is Mole. It truly combines the flavors of precolombian food (chocolate, tomato, chile, peanuts, tortilla (to name a few) and the Spanish: almonds, cinamon, raisins, etc. Mexican cuisine is so varied, it's sad to see Americans so in love with Taco bell's crap.
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Ozark Homesteader
http://ozarkhomesteader.wordpress.com
12:06 AM on 03/09/2011
Regarding Johnny Appleseed, wasn't he planting cider apples?
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cabinetmaniac
"Without a struggle, there can be no progress. "
11:02 AM on 03/10/2011
He took seed from the pulp left over from making cider. We aren't talking sweet cider either. We're talking alcohol.

He would puts sacks of seed into a canoe and go off and plant a nursery with the seed. He would hire locals to run the nursery and go off to start another.

Apple trees are not true to type which means the seed will grow a different tree than the parent. Most of the trees produced sour apples and so were used for cider. Occasionally a tree would have sweet fruit and those trees were valued for eating apples.

When you find a good sweet apple you must graft cuttings to a root stock in order reproduce the fruit of the parent tree. Johnny Appleseed (John Chapman) didn't do that and so would only produce sweet apples by chance.

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Ozark Homesteader
http://ozarkhomesteader.wordpress.com
03:54 PM on 03/27/2011
That's true with so many apple varieties. Thanks!
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MJinCanada
Safe from zombies until my 2nd cup of coffee
08:46 PM on 03/08/2011
It's amazing how far back some recipes actually go. Welsh rabbit is in fact Welsh and was featured in a menu for a feast in the 15th century. Waffles also go back to the 15th century. Cheesecake to the 14th century. Mince meat pie once actually a minced meat pie with lots of fruit and spices for seasoning. (If that sounds odd, try adding sliced apple, butter, cinnamon and a bit of sugar or honey to your leftover turkey stew this fall. Yum!)

And probably every culture on earth has some disgusting dish involving offal that once saved people from starving and now is some sort of local delicacy.
03:03 PM on 03/09/2011
Cheesecake actually goes back to ancient Greece and bares no resemblance to the sweet cake we eat today.
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MJinCanada
Safe from zombies until my 2nd cup of coffee
08:24 PM on 03/09/2011
Oooh, interesting! -- got a recipe?
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
12:15 AM on 03/13/2011
There used to be a butcher shop near me that made its own mincemeat with actual meat and beef suet. Closed long ago, alas.
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12:42 PM on 03/08/2011
For whatever reason, neither the article nor the slide show mentions where the dish of corned beef and cabbage came from. The answer: the lower East side of Manhattan, where Jews and Irish mingled. It's a beautiful example of our country as a melting pot of cultures.

Ironically, corned beef was produced in abundance in Ireland-- by British landowners, for export. This is why native Irish (subsisting as tenant farmers) couldn't afford it.
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elcerritan
My bio is not micro
12:19 AM on 03/13/2011
One St. Patrick's Day, when the subject of corned beef and cabbage came up at my office, I mentined that my family had always eaten HAM and cabbage, never corned beef, and a colleague who had lived in Ireland for years said that ham and cabbage or bacon and cabbage was also what was eaten in Ireland, never corned beef.
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DrMandible
No one on the corner has a swagger like us.
09:46 AM on 03/08/2011
And Caesar dressing was made in Latin America by a man named Caesar. It has nothing to do with Rome.
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SusanElizabeth1949
My micro-bio may be empty but my head isn't.
03:15 PM on 03/08/2011
It was invented in the 1920s at the Hotel Caesar in Tia Juana I've eaten there and seen the plaque in the lobby commemorating the invention.
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DrMandible
No one on the corner has a swagger like us.
03:36 PM on 03/08/2011
Ah interesting. I was close! I knew it was in Latin America and not Rome. I looked into this, and you're definitely right.

Spoiler alert though...
http://www.slashfood.com/2009/09/21/restaurant-that-invented-caesar-salad-closes/

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, if you didn't already know.
04:51 AM on 03/08/2011
And let's not forget that General Tso's Chicken was invented in San Francisco and is unheard of in China, and the average person in China has no idea what a "fortune cookie" is. A Chinese restaurateur in New York once told me that in Chinese restaurants that cater to Americans, beef and broccoli will be 80% beef, 20% broccoli; in those that cater to Chinese people, the proportions will be reversed.

Pizza is one of America's all-time favorite "Italian" foods, yet few Italians would recognize barbecued chicken or "bacon cheeseburger" as pizza toppings, and would be amazed at the paucity of vegetables, as well as our gigantic portion sizes. Domino's operates in over 60 countries. Italy is not one of them.

Culinary adaptation is universal. One of Japan's favorite pizza toppings is squid. Tuna and corn are two of the most popular toppings in the UK and Ireland. Paneer cheese is a popular one in India, where Domino's vegetarian menu is longer than its non-vegetarian one, and where the world's #1 burger chain, McDonald's, virtually a symbol of American food, features a variety of items, not one of which is an actual hamburger! One of America's favorite "German" foods, the frankfurter, is practically unrecognizable in its American form to an actual German as part of their cuisine. And when I was in Copenhagen I stopped by a bakery for a danish, pointed to what I wanted, and they said, "Oh - here we call that an american"!
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fishnetdiver
God hates facts!
06:47 AM on 03/08/2011
and that Cashew Chicken was invented in Springfield, MO.
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European1919
I am the PigmⒶn
07:15 AM on 03/08/2011
and that Chicken Tikka Masala is an English invention, not an Indian one. As is Mulligatawny Soup. Both are yummie though.
01:03 PM on 03/08/2011
"Chicken Tikka Masala is an English invention" - the article mentions that, sort of, in the third paragraph, although it points to Scotland as the country of origin. With Chicken Tikka Masala, there is an odd cross-cultural trade in which the dish is now often served in more populous areas of India itself. General Tso's Chicken doesn't seem to have made it back to China, though, and no self-respecting Italian would be caught dead in a Domino's or Pizza Hut.

"Both are yummie" - I didn't mean to imply that culinary adaptation necessarily means a loss of quality, although we Americans in particular do seem to have a knack for downgrading the quality - and healthiness - of cuisines we adapt, and for turning sit-down food into on-the-go food. The cuisine of Italy itself, for example, focuses very heavily on vegetables and fish (in addition to pasta, etc.), and Italians typically eat MUCH smaller portions than Americans, but when we think of "Italian food", usually what we mean are huge helpings of meat, cheese, pasta, bread, and tomato sauce. Italians, like anyone else, will pig out on occasion, but it is very much the exception rather the rule.

My main point was that is that when we Americans think we're eating Italian food or Chinese food, what we're usually eating is American food that is at least notionally akin to the cuisines of those cultures.
01:07 PM on 03/08/2011
That said, other countries are beginning to catch on to America’s food culture of:: grab-and-go / super-size / fresh-is-never-as-important-as-convenient / no such thing as too sweet, and so on; and their waistlines are starting to show it. It’s not just America that’s converting eating from a thoughtful activity into a mindless one – we’ve just been at it longer, and hence are more skilled in the art (and we’re getting better at it all the time – heck, we Americans have even decided that we’re too lazy to open a can of pasta and sauce and plop it in a pan to reheat; so we get – Chef Boyardee ravioli in a microwaveable can!)

But in terms of bastardizing foreign cuisine, turning sit-down food into fast food, AND bulking up the national waistline, I can think of no American trend that can out-do the introduction of the “Lasagna Sandwich” in Britain by Tesco last year - layers of pasta sandwiched between thick slices of bread, and, with not only cheddar cheese and ricotta, but – for heaven’s sake – mayonnaise as well, as many grams of fat as in two McDonald’s cheeseburgers, and get this: although weighing in at a hefty 565 calories, it was (at least initially) marketed by Tesco as a “snack between meals”. With trends like these, I hope that Britain is prepared to start supersizing its ambulances and caskets the way we’ve had to do in the States.
02:01 AM on 03/08/2011
Russian dressing is basically equal parts ketchup and mayonnaise. You better believe that's 100% America.
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gevan
the pilgrim has landed
06:07 AM on 03/08/2011
You forgot the pickles.
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baskemp
Veteran, US Navy Nurse Corp
01:33 AM on 03/09/2011
Isn't it thousand island when you add the pickles? or relish, or whatever? Or do I have them backwards?. I'm an EVOO and vinegar myself. Just add fresh herbs and you got fresh and tasty!
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Fran Jaime
Yo Soy 132!
12:41 AM on 03/10/2011
But mayonaise is french!
03:11 PM on 03/11/2011
And pizza is Italian but that does mean that Chicago style is from Naples.
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SteveDenver
Progressive and liberal, just like Jesus Christ.
01:15 AM on 03/08/2011
The gyros in Greece are vastly different from American gyros: shavings of lamb, beef, and pork are combined with spices, minced onion and green peppers, pressed into the familiar form and cooked on a vertical rotisserie. The results are amazing. American gyros is nicknamed "peg leg" for its Spam-like consistency.

That is one fantastic-looking apple pie!
04:38 AM on 03/08/2011
The original gyro was born in Chicago as a dense meatloaf cooked on a vertical rotisserie. It was derived from the Turkish döner kebab, which was built from a stack of sliced meat and was also the origin of the similar shawarma in Arab countries. The döner kebab came first, and that's why this version is more popular in neighboring Greece even though they use the Greek-American name gyro.

American-style gyro meat is different from Turkish-style gyro meat, but it can be just as good. However, like many things American, the market is dominated by low-quality prefabbed and often pre-sliced gyro meat that certainly does not compare to the street food in Turkey, Greece, or Israel.
01:12 AM on 03/08/2011
My homemade cakes, pies, and cookies come from my sister.
she is an incredible cook.
(I love you M.!)
01:22 AM on 03/08/2011
forget to mention my sisters home cooked meals!
delicious and very healthy.
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Trittydi
Special on pap smears at Walgreen's this week ....
01:02 AM on 03/08/2011
Fun and informational ... and potentially delicious.

Thank you.
*
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deepintheheartoftejas
Middle o/t Road = Yellow stripes & dead armadillos
10:13 PM on 03/07/2011
Where's the refried beans? I hardly ever eat any of these.