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More bar than restaurant, this Phoenix-like second coming harks back to oyster bars of yore with its tiled walls, vaulted ceilings, custom fish tank sconces, and 12-seat chef's table in the kitchen, all backing up next-level raw bar selections including live in-shell sea urchin, Long Island fluke crudo, full caviar service, and hotter plates from oyster pan roasts w/ uni butter, to manila clams w/ bone marrow, to veal-and-mortadella-stuffed mussels, not to be confused with veal-and-mortadella-stuffed muscles, because that's very rare Situation.

Soft opens Friday at the Ace Hotel: 1196 Broadway, nr 29th St; NoMad; 212.792.9000


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