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Victoria Moran

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Veg & the City: When Compassion Is in Fashion

Posted: 02/25/2011 9:34 am

We've come a long way towards overcoming the grass-and-granola image long held about a plant-based diet, and we're now making inroads into that citadel of self-interest: the world of fashion. Thank goodness! I adore clothes. I was brought up this way. My grandmother told me, "The Bible says your body is a temple, and you're supposed to decorate it."

Taking her advice religiously, I went to fashion school in London at eighteen and my first job was writing ads for a women and children's specialty store. I was caught up in the thrill of it. Although I'd stopped eating meat, I held onto my fringed mini-skirt of orange suede and a fat fur coat my dad had given me for my birthday two years earlier. I was wearing that coat the day that I slipped on a patch of black ice and landed in dog poo. Not a clump of the stuff -- more like a mountain. It somehow matted itself into that coat in ways that defied physics. I got up, inhaled once, and knew I was done. It was as if the universe was saying: "You're a vegetarian with a fur coat. What's up with that shit?" I had the coat cleaned by a furrier; it cost me a week's wages. Then I gave it to the Goodwill -- the suede skirt, too.

Even then there was ample precedent for not wearing somebody else's skin. Muriel, the Lady Dowding, was among the first to champion this view in the UK following World War II. She and her husband, Chief Air Marshal Lord Dowding (he masterminded the Battle of Britain -- there's a window for him in Westminster Abbey), sought out special tailors to make from fake fur the required "ermine" robes for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. When I visited Lady Dowding in the 80s, she showed me photographs of the two of them: even with the limitations of fake fur circa 1953, Muriel and her handsome Hugh were mirror images of their titled peers at the auspicious occasion.

Twenty years later, the anti-fur movement was big, and stars including Mary Tyler Moore posed for full-page magazine ads decrying this cruel trade. One designer after another made signed statements to stop using fur. Major magazines pledged to avoid showing it in editorial spreads and even to refuse fur advertisements. When Anna Wintour took the reins at Vogue in 1988, however, fur resurfaced with a vengeance. "She saved an industry!" one of her cohorts gushes in The September Issue, the documentary about Wintour.

Nevertheless, the animal rights movement had by then become a force to be reckoned with, and the mid-90s once again saw fur as morally incorrect. Fur salons disappeared en masse from city centers and suburban malls. Some of us thought that this time the minks and otters and raccoons would be "fair game" no longer, but instead, fur crept back -- mostly for collars and hats, at first -- "It's just trim," we heard a lot -- and then a resurgence of fur coats for both women and men.

But once again the tide is turning. The gloriously fashionistic tabloid, Pinnacle, created by Joshua Katcher of TheDiscerningBrute.com, features images, models, makeup, lighting, design, and copy as fashion-savvy as those in any glossy. When Pinnacle was distributed at Fashion Week, it was, as Chloe Jo Davis wrote on GirlieGirlArmy.com, "fighting fur with fashion."

Chic vegans are so numerous now, in fact, that glorious non-wool coats have come on the scene. (For years I convinced myself that wool was a harmless byproduct. It's not. Most commercial wool is cruelly harvested through a process call mulesing which takes chunks of sensitive skin along with the wool. And even sheep bred for wool wind up slaughtered for mutton in the end.) Enter the lovely Leeanne Mai-ly Hilgart and her Vaute Couture line of vegan, eco-conscious, fair-trade dress coats for women and men.

Cruelty-free footwear is another area in which living as a vegan has become undeniably easier. The choices thirty years ago were little more than canvas Keds, cheap plastic prisons with cardboard soles, and black cloth Mary Janes from the PROC. (Those had almost no soles at all. It's a wonder I don't have a podiatrist on speed-dial.) I did sometimes cheat with shoes and buy leather, wearing each pair until they nearly fell apart, then getting them a second life and a third from the cobbler. I just didn't see any other way.

But it's a new world out there, one with incredible vegan shoes at every price point. Cambridge, Vancouver, and New York all boast vegan shoe stores. The last time I was at the one here, MooShoes on the Lower East Side, I found an incredible pair of boots made of inky black Ultrasuede (cloth, not animal skin), with wedge heels and - here's the cool part - fold-over cuffs in periwinkle blue. They're from a gifted designer, Elizabeth Olsen, founder of Olsenhaus Vegan Shoes, who describes her visits to tanneries rather the way Dante described his forays through the various levels of hell.

I know more than I'd like to about the suffering of animals in this world. Being able to have fun with clothes (and cruelty-free cosmetics, too) is one way I can lighten up and live joyfully while trying to make a difference. I could be a vegan in sackcloth and flip-flops, but I find fabulous boots with periwinkle cuffs a far preferable option.

 
 
 

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Siren Song
I used to be Snow White, but I drifted...
03:07 AM on 02/28/2011
Wonderful piece! I love animals and fashion. For years I hunted for non-leather shoes, and usually found passable pairs at Payless (alliteration unintentional!) Shoes. Only recently I gave up wool, and don't miss the upkeep, and I get warmth from manmade fabrics such as lovely faux fur. (When will the Anna Wintours of the world realize that real fur is not a fabric?!) Loved the story about Lady Dowding. Didn't she have something to do with Beauty Without Cruelty? A marvelous woman.

Well, many thanks for this!
08:52 PM on 03/28/2011
Lady Dowding started the Beauty Without Cruelty brand of natural cruelty free cosmetics and raised the awareness of the world about the cruelty of testing cosmetic ingredients on animals. The brand still exists and the website is at http://www.beautywithoutcruelty.com She was a true pioneer and we all have a debt of gratitude to her efforts.
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SusanElizabeth1949
My micro-bio may be empty but my head isn't.
10:07 PM on 02/27/2011
Mulesing has nothing to do with shearing sheep, it is a surgical proceedure used in Australia to try and stop breech fly-strike http://www.animalsaustralia.org/issues/mulesing.php
02:13 PM on 03/03/2011
Correct me if I'm wrong, but flystrike is a problem because humans have bred merino sheep to have generous amounts of extra skin, resulting in folds and wrinkles. More skin = more wool = more money. However moisture and feces collect in the skin folds, which attracts fly eggs. So muelsing has very much to do with the collection of wool. I agree that the article isn't precise about connecting the dots, but to say that this cruel practice has nothing to do with shearing sheep is incorrect as well.
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SusanElizabeth1949
My micro-bio may be empty but my head isn't.
05:48 PM on 03/03/2011
I just checked and the merino sheep are one of the oldest of sheep breeds, they were introduced into Spain around the 12th century by an Arab tribe.
06:57 AM on 02/27/2011
My heart is lighter today, Victoria, because you are spreading the word (in such a joyful way) about the beauty of vegan fashion. The world of cruelty-free style has come a long way in just the past 5 or 6 years thanks to growing awareness of how our clothing and accessories are made and the creative efforts of people you highlighted like Leeanne Mai-ly Hilgart and Elizabeth Olsen. Six years ago I became a vegan practically overnight once I learned how pervasive animal cruelty is in the food and fashion industries. Even as an image consultant, there was no turning back. I decided to make it an adventure and become a walking advertisement for vegan style. I learned that there is so much misinformation out there (thank you for setting the record straight about wool!) and, in many cases, just plain no information. As a result, many people don't know of the tremendous suffering that goes on just so they can wear a particular piece of clothing or shoes or carry a coveted handbag. Thank you so much for enlightening so many people today and helping to advance the world of vegan (a.k.a., cruelty-free) fashion.
12:43 AM on 02/27/2011
Hi Victoria, I really liked the artivle but just wanted to point one thing out - mulesing is not part of the shearing process, it is an extremely cruel way of preventing flystrike in hot climates. The skin from the rear end of the sheep is cut off without anaesthetic so that smooth scar tissue will grow in its place, preventing flies from laying eggs there.
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BebeLush
The Tao of Pooh
08:17 PM on 02/26/2011
Awesome! Thanks for the article.
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kathynyc
vegan blogger
04:04 PM on 02/26/2011
Wonderful article Victoria! I am slowly building my wardrobe up with amazing vegan fashion items and loving every minute of it. So many talented vegan lines available now. People just need to know where to find them! If anyone is looking to "green" their lifestyle and really 'wear their compassion' - vegan fashion is a great place to start.
03:07 PM on 02/26/2011
Thank you Victoria for shedding your light on the vegan fashion industry! It's exciting to hear that vegan fashion options are becoming more readily available to the masses AND that they have some fun flair to them. I greatly appreciate the insight to the cruelty of the wool industry as well, very helpful. Veganism is at an all time high and I am so grateful for your enlightening words about animal compassion!
07:17 PM on 02/25/2011
I love it when Victoria Moran visits huffpost! I agree, its much easier being vegan now than ever. I invested in a Patagonia recycled winter coat that can be sent back to the company and recycled once again after it outlives me. Not all of their products are vegan, but anyone in need of truly warm winter vegan alternatives to wool and down should check them out.

Vegan shoes have become incredibly easy to find as well. During a family school-shopping excursion I recently bought some vegan shoes that were made from recycled and ethically-sourced materials at Payless (of all places). The world is really catching on when you can buy vegan, recycled-content shoes at Payless.
06:34 PM on 02/25/2011
Loved the article. Vegan too, and I have no problems finding great shoes.