by JANELLE OKWODU
Photo: Courtesy of the Society Management.
Shockwaves went through the fashion industry in the early nineties when Eve Salvail first appeared on the runway with a shaved head, her head bare save for a curled dragon tattooed on her scalp. Her hair, or lack thereof, stood in direct contrast with the lengthy, ultra-feminine locks of the era's supermodels -- think Christy, Cindy, Naomi, Stephanie, and long, swingy sheets of hair. Two decades later and long hair is still the default for new models, whose agents praise its versatility: With fashion shows and editorials requiring models to be quick-change artists, longer hair can more easily lend itself to the required transformations. As a result, agencies have historically preferred that models play it safe. But the current fixation on models with "personality" has given rise to a set of beauties who follow in the footsteps of trailblazers like Salvail. African models like Grace Bol, Herieth Paul, and Ajak Deng have been wearing their hair super short for years, but only recently have their peers followed suit. Rising stars Tamy Glauser, Ruth Bell, and Kris Gottschalk have all embraced the buzz cut -- and seen their careers skyrocket as a result.
Close-cropped hair has long been a signifier of punk rebellion and offbeat cool, so it's fitting that designers who understand the importance of carefully curated edge have sought the models who dare to shear: Glauser is a regular at Rick Owens and on Nicolas Ghesquière's runway for Louis Vuitton, while Gottschalk was tapped to model alongside the boys at Public School's show at men's New York Fashion Week, and Bell cut her chest-length strawberry blonde hair to front the latest campaign for Alexander McQueen. As it turns out, having a shaved head has become something of a savvy career move: It not only attracts cooler clients, it also serves to set a model apart from the hundreds of other girls on the scene. "There are hardly any other models with a shaved head," says Gottschalk. "It's interesting because other girls don't really see me as competition -- I don't get those sideways glances at castings."
Bell's newly shorn hair also helps to differentiate her from her twin and fellow model, May. Born and raised in Kent, England, the sisters began their fashion careers together often photographed as a pair -- they even share an Instagram account. Since her pixieish Paul Hanlon buzz cut, Bell has been carving out a niche for herself, working with the likes of David Sims and Lachlan Bailey and, yes, forming her own social media account -- one filled with shots of her as a moody, punkish gamine, rather than the more traditional, whimsical images that fill the account she and her sister share.
Glauser, likely one of the originators of the current buzzed-off trend, got her fade from a friend. "I had been talking about wanting to cut my hair forever, but I was too scared," admits Glauser. "One day my friend just picked up scissors and cut my hair right down the middle -- there was no going back." Over time the look became Glauser's signature: Occasionally the color will change -- earlier this month she debuted a platinum hue -- but the length rarely varies. Though she's benefited from her now-trademark daring do, Glauser cautions those attempting to emulate it. "[Shaving your head] is a risk, you never really know how it will look until that moment of truth." Still, the model has no plans to revert to her old style. "It just feels too amazing short -- I might let it grow a centimeter, then it's time to shave again!"
More from Vogue:
Who's Your Fall Beauty Muse? 13 Vogue Editors Name Their Favorites, From Ali MacGraw to Kurt Cobain
How Emma Watson Does Ladylike Beauty--With a Laid-Back Edge
Yes, Gisele Is Good at Everything, Even the Electric Slide
Serena Williams and Drake and 6 Other Tennis-Celebrity Power Couples
How This Throwback Accessory Became One of Fall's Coolest Trends
11 Red Carpet-Ready Dresses for Your Next Big Party