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Wray Herbert

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The Psychology of Knock Offs: Why 'Faking It' Makes Us Feel (and Act) Like Phonies

Posted: 04/07/10 09:50 AM ET

Within just a few blocks of my office, street vendors will sell me a Versace t-shirt or a silk tie from Prada, cheap. Or I could get a deal on a Rolex, or a chic pair of Ray Ban shades. These aren't authentic brand name products, of course. They're inexpensive replicas. But they make me look and feel good, and I doubt any of my friends can tell the difference.

That's why we buy knockoffs, isn't it? To polish our self-image--and broadcast that polished version of our personality to the world--at half the price? But does it work? After all, we first have to convince ourselves of our idealized image if we are going to sway anyone else. Can we really become Ray Ban-wearing, Versace-bedecked sophisticates in our own mind--just by dressing up?

New research suggests that knockoffs may not work as magically as we'd like--and indeed may backfire. Three psychological scientists--Francesca Gino of Chapel Hill, Michael Norton of Harvard Business School, and Dan Ariely of Duke--have been exploring the power and pitfalls of fake adornment in the lab. They wanted to see if counterfeit stuff might have hidden psychological costs, warping our actions and attitudes in undesirable ways.

Here's an example of their work. The scientists recruited a large sample of young women and had them wear pricey Chloe sunglasses. The glasses were the real thing, but half the women thought they were wearing knockoffs. They wanted to see if wearing counterfeit shades--a form of dishonesty--might actually make the women act dishonestly in other ways.

So they had them perform a couple tasks--tasks that presented opportunities for lying and cheating. In one, for example, the women worked on a complicated set of mathematical puzzles--a task they couldn't possibly complete in the time allowed. When time elapsed, the women were told to score themselves on the honor system--and to take money for each correct score. Unbeknownst to them, the scientists were monitoring both their work and their scoring.

And guess what. The women wearing the fake Chloe shades cheated more--considerably more. Fully 70 percent inflated their performance when they thought nobody was checking on them--and in effect stole cash from the coffer. To double-check this distressing result, the scientists put the women through a completely different task, one that forced a choice between the right answer and the more profitable answer. And again the Chloe-wearing women pocketed the petty cash. Notably, the women cheated not only when they expressed a preference for the cheap knockoffs, but also when the real and fake designer glasses were randomly handed out. So it appears that the very act of wearing the counterfeit eyewear triggered the lying and cheating.

This is bizarre and disturbing, but it gets worse. The psychologists wondered if inauthentic image-making might not only corrupt personal ethics, but also lead to a generally cynical attitude toward other people. In other words, if wearing counterfeit stuff makes people feel inauthentic and behave unethically, might they see others as phony and unethical, too? To test this, they again handed out genuine and counterfeit Chloe shades, but this time they had the volunteers complete a survey about "someone they knew." Would this person use an express line with too many groceries? Pad an expense report? Take home office supplies? There were also more elaborate scenarios involving business ethics. The idea was that all the answers taken together would characterize each volunteer as having a generally positive view of others--or a generally cynical view.

Cynical, without question. Compared to volunteers who were wearing authentic Chloe glasses, those wearing the knockoffs saw other people as more dishonest, less truthful, and more likely to act unethically in business dealings.

So what's going on here? Well, the scientists ran a final experiment to answer this question, and here are the ironic results they report on-line this week in the journal Psychological Science: Wearing counterfeit glasses not only fails to bolster our ego and self-image the way we hope, it actually undermines our internal sense of authenticity. "Faking it" makes us feel like phonies and cheaters on the inside, and this alienated, counterfeit "self" leads to cheating and cynicism in the real world.

Counterfeiting is a serious economic and social problem, epidemic in scale. Most people buy these fake brands because they are a lot cheaper, but this research suggests there may be a hidden moral cost yet to be tallied.

 
 
 
Within just a few blocks of my office, street vendors will sell me a Versace t-shirt or a silk tie from Prada, cheap. Or I could get a deal on a Rolex, or a chic pair of Ray Ban shades. These aren't a...
Within just a few blocks of my office, street vendors will sell me a Versace t-shirt or a silk tie from Prada, cheap. Or I could get a deal on a Rolex, or a chic pair of Ray Ban shades. These aren't a...
 
 
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05:58 PM on 04/09/2010
So what does making your own or altering a resale shop find mean? Personally, I feel good because I not only saved money but 90% of the time can do better seams and finishing than anything I buy, even at designer stores. But you would probably claim it makes me feel inferior. NOT!
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Beka13
Veni vidi vici
04:28 PM on 04/07/2010
I can tell a fake 85% of the time which is why I dont do fake...EVER....I always think if they are trying to fake a bag then they are probably fake in general...Im NOT a faker....complicated and multilayered yes....FAKE NEVER.
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sydneymusic
01:00 PM on 04/07/2010
When you buy fakes you are contributing to the direct support of human rights violations. Children are enslaved and forced to work in appalling conditions to manufacture these items.
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theredqueen
True friends stab you in the front. Oscar Wilde
11:16 AM on 04/08/2010
That is so very true.
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KayAch7
A Delay Is Not A Denial...sometimes
05:44 PM on 04/08/2010
yes and no.
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Mister Biggles
11:58 AM on 04/07/2010
Talk about not seeing the forest for the trees.

You aren't worried about the feeling that result from NOT indulging in absolutely empty soulless and pointless status symbols?

I think you are asking yourself the wrong questions.

How about wearing generic clothes and accessories and giving the money to starving kids or cancer research?
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Beka13
Veni vidi vici
04:29 PM on 04/07/2010
To each his own...I perfer quality and unfortunately quality has a price...But if you are smart you can get real brand name stuff for good prices. :)
04:58 PM on 04/07/2010
If you had a choice between a high quality product from a "status" brand and a higher quality product of the same type that wan't a recognizable brand, and both were the same price, which would you choose and why? (Assume for the sake of argument that you know for sure that the no-brand item is higher quality, so it's not a question of the brand being an indicator of quality.) I'm not trying to be contrary or critical, but sincerely am interested in the answer to this question. I have never been a name-brand person (I admit that part of that is a nonpretentiousness pretention), though I'm definitely willing to pay more for quality, so I'm interested to hear the rationale for "status" brands.
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06:01 PM on 04/09/2010
Quality? Really? I have been shopping for a long time and the decline of quality in designer items has dropped dramatically in the last 30 years. I could detail all the ways, but it seems self evident to me. I feel hustled when I look at offerings now- by bad design and poor quality much of the time. I design my own, doing my own work or jobbing it out to a master seamstress I know. Quality matters- you just don't get it from fashion designers any more.
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Cynth
[Your ad here.]
11:54 AM on 04/07/2010
Fascinating. I guess this might help explain why I don't like wearing knockoffs and that I tend to be a goody-two-shoes! LOL
11:12 AM on 04/07/2010
If I could afford to wear the most expensive brand name labels (which I can't), I would still not advertise it. I will pay extra for quality, but even then, the last thing I want is to be a walking billboard for some nouveau-riche status symbol.
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SF TKF
Cthulhu thinks you'd make a nice sandwich.
12:37 PM on 04/08/2010
My grandmother always maintained that wearing labels on the outside was tacky, and I agree. I do buy ‘brand name” things, but I try to avoid anything that screams out its own brand (like Coach or Louis Vuitton bags made out of their “signature” fabrics and leather).
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BebeLush
The Tao of Pooh
10:51 AM on 04/07/2010
And of course men never buy anything counterfeit, right? Oh brother.
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The Barnacle
11:32 AM on 04/07/2010
So they sell fake Prada ties and faux Rolexs to women? Stop jumping to conclusions
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BebeLush
The Tao of Pooh
11:25 AM on 04/09/2010
That post doesn't make one ounce of sense. Care to reiterate?