Ludo Lefebvre has plenty of admirers. Jonathan Gold, the country's most respected restaurant critic, is a fan. So are millions of Top Chef: Masters devotees, who find the tattooed young French chef either downright dreamy or totally insufferable -- or both. He has won Mobile 5-Star awards at two previous restaurants. And his current eatery, Ludo Bites, is one of the most popular and in-demand in Los Angeles.
There's only one problem. The restaurant doesn't exist.
At least, not in the way we tend to think of restaurants. There's no phone number, no fixed address, no Zagat entry. Ludo Bites is a roving entity: when its next location is announced -- usually via e-mail first (there are 3,000 or so people on the list) and then on Facebook and Twitter -- within seven hours, all reservations are snapped up at the place Ludo Bites will be occupying for the next several weeks.