The New York City vs. San Francisco culinary feud has been going on for years and shows no sign of stopping. Chefs in both cities dismiss it as a joke, and maybe it is, but it's the kind of joke that hides a not-so-secret hostility. Unlike Biggie vs. Tupac or the Celtics vs. the Lakers, the rivalry isn't just a random, regional one: there is a real difference in the way the cities can be said to approach food and all the different ways it can be manipulated. David Chang, the ever quotable enfant terrible of New York City gastronomy, rekindled the fire last fall when he dismissed Bay Area cooking. "F______ every restaurant in San Francisco is serving figs on a plate with nothing on it," he said at the New York City Wine and Food Festival. "Do something with your food."