Chef Georges Perrier Of Le Bec-Fin Hangs Up His Toque

Fine Dining Mecca Closes Its Doors, For Now

JUST before 9 on Saturday night, the sound of someone clinking a wineglass rose above the murmur at what had once been called the best restaurant in America. Georges Perrier wanted to make a speech.

“It should not be a sad night tonight,” said Mr. Perrier, a chef who, in 42 years of presiding over the kitchen at Le Bec-Fin, came to be seen as the very model of the technically exacting and emotionally tempestuous master of French cuisine. “It should be a fun night.”

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