02/12/2013 12:04 pm ET Updated Dec 06, 2017

New York Fashion Week Backstage Beauty: Chocolate Lips & Half-Up, Half-Down Hair At Phillip Lim Fall 2013 (PHOTOS)

"This season we wanted to do something that relates to all the girls," NARS makeup artist Francelle Daly told us backstage at the 3.1 Phillip Lim fall 2013 collection. "I wanted to do the natural essence of the girl. And what that means translating to the makeup is she's an uptown sophisticated girl, she still spends some time doing her makeup in the morning -- but she has an edge. She can be an uptown girl with a rock 'n roll boyfriend, or she could have a rock band at night."

phillip lim backstage beauty

Daly started by prepping the skin with a hydrating cream, then followed with NARS Radiant Creme Compact Foundation. "I used my hands to really put that product into the skin tone." She then set it with the light-reflecting powder. "It has the consistency of real skin." There's a flawless complexion, but there is a nice finish to it."

The central part of the look, however, was the deep, moody lip. "This is what complements and finalizes the look," she told us. She first lined the models' lips with Kenya, a red-brown lip pencil, then followed with Mambo eyeliner, a dark chocolate brown shade. "I just wanted to have a nice little edge. There's an expensive taste to it. It's not rock n roll, it's finished."

As for the hair, "It's quite simple it's really about texture," said Fekkai hairstylist Paul Halon. "A little bit deconstructed. Maybe she's been out all night, maybe been to her boyfriend's house. Quite sexy, but I don't mean in a vampy way. Not so considered. The key thing here is the texture. Phillip liked the idea of all of the girls being different."

To achieve the look, Hanlon worked in Fekkai Full Volume Mousse, giving the hair substance and base. "We're making it beautiful to start, then destroying it." After drying the hair, he spritzed in Fekkai's Luscious Curls Wave Spray. "This gives it a more languid, slept-in-ness," he added. "Phillip liked the idea of all the hair being tucked inside the jackets … like, it's been caught under a scarf, gathered to one side. It's very spontaneous, fun hair. Like, the girl walked off the street into the show."

The models' nails were painted in a creamy cement color called Sand Tropez by Essie. "It reminds me a lot of concrete, also a little bit of putty," said lead nail artist Michelle Saunders. "It's not your ordinary color. And I like that it was inspired by the attitude of the woman who would wear his collection, as opposed to the collection itself. She would not wear a light sheer, traditional color."

See more photos from backstage at 3.1 Phillip Lim, then check out all of our New York Fashion Week coverage here.

3.1 Phillip Lim Backstage Beauty

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