Matthew Dolan is chef/partner at Twenty Five Lusk restaurant in San Francisco and has just published an informative new book, Simply Fish, that tells all about the current sustainability of seafood in America.
Q. How does your new book differ from other seafood books?
A: Simply Fish adds in to each recipe a component of “what to ask the fish guy.” Food insecurity is a real issue as it pertains to all levels of consumers, and even those fish lovers that only order fish at restaurants won’t cook fish at home for a litany of reasons: they don’t know how to handle it, they don’t want the mess, and they don’t want their Manhattan apartment to stink of fish for days. In each recipe, I encourage folks to make the fish counter do the dirty work for you. If followed, the fish is pan ready with nominal to zero waste, and the experience of cooking fish at home is made a lot more pleasant.
Q: Sustainability is key to your book. Is the current supply of seafood dwindling because of worldwide consumption?
A: The current supply of seafood is well supported. The Monterey Bay Aquarium, NOAA, Scripps Oceanographic Institute, and the Marine Stewardship Council have been instrumental in ensuring our awareness. The real issue is our dependence on the common-demand species – salmon, tuna, and shrimp. If we could create a demand for the mesopelagic species (lantern fish for example, and these other fishes that are deep water species and there currently isn’t a demand for said species in restaurants or markets), then we could ease off of the demand for the overly taxed species like salmon and tuna. This is wildly optimistic. As a restaurateur, I must meet the demand of my guests, and therefore we arrive at this puzzling reality of how can we actually promote a sustainable future? There is no lack of sustainable seafood that exists in the wild; what we lack is a thoughtful approach to consumption. The market requires a populated list of recognizable fish, the fisheries work tirelessly to meet this demand, and sustainability too often becomes an afterthought. Fortunately, there are lots of great folks working hard to create a much needed paradigm shift.
Q: Is fish farming the answer, and why is so much farmed fish inferior?
A: Fish farming is not the answer. And I know that my reply to this question is massively unpopular, but I do not care. Fish farms, not all but many, create ground water issues, foster unnatural feed systems where chicken has something to do with it (and the last time I checked, fish don'T’t normally eat chicken). That said, there are some very forward thinking fish farms that do not have a negative impact. In California, the McFarland Springs Trout from Kenny Belov sets a proper standard and produces a wonderful, thoughtful, and sustainable product. My singular point is that we need to protect these species and commit to taking what is reasonable. And while doing so, we need to lessen our dependence on certain species. Before big boats, big machines, and over-sized nets, we had rods and reels. We need to support those that realize this, are stewards of the sea, and care for the holistic reality of what they are reaping for our consumption. Fish farms make as much sense to me as aquatic cattle ranches. I am not an expert, but alas, you asked the question. I expect many contrary opinions to follow this reply.
Q: Why does the seafood in Europe taste better—sometimes so much better—than the same species available here?
A: As someone who went to high school for a brief moment in Europe, married a European, and holds a foundation of European technique as the basis of the daily professional endeavor, I think that what we experience when traveling is less commercial than what we see here in the U.S. My meaning is that these fish dishes taste better because they are culturally entrenched. It’s not some culinary school graduate who is trying something out for the first time, most likely we are tasting something that has a rooted history, has been well practiced and executed, and comes from the local market – so never frozen, never stored for long, and cooked with a timeless sensibility that embraces a cultural and historical respect for the product. That said, I once had Eric Ripert’s fish in New York, and herein lies the exception to the rule, as he and many other chefs in the U.S. can execute at that same level. When in Europe, we have set our stress aside, hopefully, and we have opened our minds to total enjoyment when it comes to dining. I will say that the engrained culture of cooking and respecting the core ingredients has a lot do with the experience.
Q: If one doesn’t have access to a fish market or store, what are the key ways to get good seafood at supermarkets?
A: Although the common thread is that Whole Foods markets may be overpriced, they do carry only MSC-certified fish. That is huge. Another way is to download the Seafood Watch App and reach out to local wholesalers. Ask for a will-call order, select from the “Best Choice” category, and get in the car and go pick it up. This doesn’t take a ton of time and if you are polite and grateful for their time, they will work with you.
Q: What species are particularly prone to manipulation? Scallops? Branzino? Dover sole?
A: Salmon and trout. The demand is crazy and so is the way that some of this is being farm raised. “Franken-Salmon,” genetically modified salmon, and simply toxic farm-raised salmon are part of our reality. I firmly believe in the seasonally designated wild options.
Q: I’ve become very suspicious of any seafood coming out of Southeast Asia. Am I overreacting to reports of filthy conditions?
A: As you should! The farm-raised Indonesian prawns are garbage. We have great skim net-caught Gulf of Mexico prawns that support our domestic fisheries and are a superior product. Yes, our stuff costs more money, but why the hell are we buying the Asian product and taking money away from our domestic fisheries? And the farm-raised products coming from Asia are seriously in question with regards to sustainability, mercury, how the fisheries damage the eco-system and the carbon footprint, to even getting them here in the first place. Is the environment toxic? Most likely it is. You are not overreacting at all to the filthy conditions, as these fisheries are loosely, if at all, regulated.