Matera, famous for its “Sassi,” is a city in the region of Basilicata located essentially where the heel of the “boot” of Italy starts. “Sassi” means rocks, but in this case we’re not talking about big boulders like those of Stonehenge. Here, the Sassi—the first site in southern Italy to be taken under UNESCO’s protective wing, in 1993—are two ancient districts that constitute the town’s historic center. They were carved into the calcareous rock referred to locally as tufo. Houses, alleys, wells: there are layers of history right before your eyes in the Sassi, which developed around what is called the Civita, the oldest inhabited part of Matera. Visiting the Sassi means discovering an intricate urban system clinging to the slopes overlooking the Gravina Valley, making Matera a spectacular landscape. This is the place Mel Gibson chose to film The Passion.
Rocks and human constructions play a key role here in a dense dialogue that has culminated in breath-taking beauty. There are rock dwellings and churches, streets and bell towers. The two quarters, the Rione Sasso Barisano and the Rione Sacco Caveoso, visually represent centuries of history through which you’ll walk as you take in the sights. And there is plenty to see in Matera, which is 1,300 feet above sea level. First of all, there is the 13th-century Romanesque cathedral in Piazza della Civita, and it houses wooden statues and paintings by local artists. The 17th-century Palazzo Lanfranchi is now home to the Museum of Medieval and Modern Art, boasting 17th- and 18th-century paintings as well as wooden sculptures and the various artistic traditions typical of the area. And then there are countless churches, starting with San Francesco d’Assisi—be sure to see it—that was built over an ancient basilica in the rock (below ground level) and can still be accessed via a trapdoor in a side chapel. Tramontano Castle, built in the Aragonese style in the early 16th century to defend the city, is a massive structure in pale stone. Currently it can only be viewed from the outside, as it is undergoing major restoration work.
As to where to sleep and eat, in Matera these places too are dramatic-looking, in a setting bound to channel your inner spelunker.
B&B ALL’ANNUNZIATA VECCHIA
Recinto Annunziata Vecchia 13 Tel. +39 330 364753
Alongside the cathedral, in the highest part of Matera, this recently renovated bed & breakfast offers one of the most beautiful views of Sasso Barisano. The rooms have a kitchenette.
B&B RESIDENCE SASSI
SAN GENNARO
Via San Gennaro 24, tel. +39 0835 334582
Ready to feel like an archaeologist? The spaces in this eight-room residence were built between the 15th and 17th centuries over prehistoric caves and a cistern from the Bronze Age.
Ristorante Pizzeria La Talpa (Via Fiorentini 167, tel. +39 0835 335086). Carved entirely in the rock face, it has traditional utensils hanging from the walls and checkered tablecloths. This home-style place is famous for its appetizers and freshly made pasta.
