The Magic of Zanzibar, Beyond The Beach

The Magic of Zanzibar, Beyond The Beach
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Photo courtesy of Curious on Tanzania

You’d think I live on the North Pole the way I crave sunshine. Like, if a beach isn’t on the itinerary for a vacation, I almost immediately cross it off my list of considerations. Because why use your hard-earned vacation days to wear socks and sleeves?

Well it’s no coincidence that so many of us seek out beaches on vacation. The tourism industry markets beach resorts pretty heavily, with beautifully retouched photos of smiling couples splashing in crystal blue waters as they begin their lives together. And as happy and relaxed those lovebirds always looks in the photos, it’s understandable why we’d want that experience!

But it wasn’t until I started venturing past white sand and ocean waves did I realize how much there is to experience beyond the beach. In Zanzibar, I split my time between their capital city of Stonetown, and the coast where most of the beaches are. One day I shared a taxi with a young middle eastern couple on their honeymoon who taught me a little about how important it is to explore beyond the resort gates while traveling. Drunk in love giddy, the new bride told me about their lavish wedding in Dubai, and how they were on their second week of their blissful 3-week vacation in East Africa.

Yet, I could sense a restlessness about her. As if something was missing from their experience.

“Are there restaurants near your resort?” she asked. “There doesn’t seem to be much out here.”

“No we just have the hotel restaurant,” I replied, “But there are plenty in Stonetown. You should go!”

“Really? We drove through there on our way from airport, but it looked so poor.”

For two seconds her privilege annoyed me, but then I actually felt bad for her. Coming from a gorgeous, gold-plated city like Dubai, she couldn’t even see beyond the shabby exterior of the buildings in Stonetown. But as a resident of New York (with neighborhoods that look like scary movie after dark) I knew some of the richest experiences are found behind doors you’d overlook at first glance.

I politely told her about a restaurant on the roof of the Emerson on Hurumzi, where I enjoyed a 3-course meal overlooking sunset on the water. It’s actually perfect for newlyweds because the waiters tell the story of local marriage rituals before dinner is served. At sunset you can hear chanting from the local mosques all around the city which was totally unexpected for me, but really cool to experience before dinner began. While I was there solo, I truly enjoyed watching fresh-off-the-altar couples learn about the traditions of Zanzibari marriages.

Photo: Tracey Coleman

If the sunset romantic dinner wasn’t their thing, they could totally create their own three-course meal Anthony Bourdain-style at the night market in Forodhani Gardens. There’s a smorgasbord of unbelievably tasty options to sample, and it’s a great way to try a bunch of different local foods all in one place!

“What about shopping? Are there any stores near your resort?” she asked.

“Hmmmmm. Not really. The hotel gift shop at Blue Bay Resort actually had some nice stuff, but if you’re looking to really go shopping you should go into town. There were so many stores I couldn’t get to them all!”

I smiled as I thought back to my half-day shopping spree in town, where I strolled up and down the cobble-stoned streets in search of gifts for my loved ones. At first glance the shops all look the same, with colorful handbags and wooden trinkets. But upon closer inspection you’ll find beautifully detailed jewelry handcrafted by the local Masai, and gorgeous attire made from ketenge fabrics.

Photo: Tracey Coleman

Somewhere along the way I wandered into Mrembo Spa, which smells like the waiting room of heaven as soon as you step into the door. Only a few minutes inside and I’d already bought enough products to smell like an aromatherapy candle for the rest of my life.

Photo: Tracey Coleman

When I peeked back at the couple in the rearview mirror, I could see she was nudging hubby to see if they could go. Not long after, we stopped on the side of the road at a mobile store to get sim cards, and when I got back into the van, my driver let me know they had decided to take a dolla dolla van into town. While their 2 hour ride was going to be memorable to say the least, I was excited that they had chosen to look past the poverty on the surface of the city, and dive into the culture beneath.

While I thought I was teaching them a lesson that day, I actually reminded myself that there’s a whole world of experiences out there that don’t included beaches. When choosing your next destination, try to find a balance between the typical resort life and local culture. Because those unassuming places that never make the tourist brochure are where you make memories that last a lifetime.

*****

Tracey Coleman is a travel writer and digital storyteller based in Brooklyn, New York. For travel tips and inspiration visit Brooklyntraveladdict.com and follow @bktraveladdict on Instagram.

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