Having just returned from France, where I drank exclusively French wines, I have been indulging at home in a wide variety of bottlings from all over the world. Here are some of my favorites at the moment, every one great for the Thanksgving feast..
Tommasi Rafael Valpolicella Ripasso 2014 ($25)—Valpolicella seems to be having its day in the sun after decades of mediocre imports that might be characterized as “red wine” and nothing more. Tommasi is one of the first-rate labels in Veneto and its “ripassso” version of Valpolicella is a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara that is “re-passed” over the lees of fermented Amarone wine, giving the wine considerably more body and layers of flavor and a second fermentation that adds to the alcohol level. Tommasi’s regular Valpolicella ($14) is also a fine example that is a very versatile wine of the region.
Tenuta Santa Maria Alla Pieve Amarone 2010 ($90)—While we’re on the subject of Amarone, this is a convincing example that this once leathery style wine can be made with considerable finesse. It’s not meant to be delicate but it should be fresh and fruity, as this one is. The label is in the stable of Bertani wines, which have always produced big, beautiful Amarones, and at 15% alcohol, this example is somewhat below more brutish bottlings and therefore far more versatile. It will be ideal for Thanksgiving turkey with side dishes that can often have a sweet component.
Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ($100)—An outstanding example of Cabernet that really helped put Chilean wines on the map. The high-altitude vineyards were established in 1890 in the Maipo Valley, and today winemaker Enrique Tirado contends with hot and cool years, so vintages vary. He draws from 142 individual lots, a “quilt” of “multiple expressions,” adding some Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot for complexity, reaching a good alcohol level of 14.3%. It’s worth its price, which would be three times as much for a French or American competitor.
Porer Tenuta Lageder Pinot Grigio 2013 ($20)—Rare is the Pinot Grigio worth its price in this country and rarer still is one that can take four years of age. Lageder, in the southern Tyrol, takes full advantage of the sunny climate, using a trellis system (unusual in Alto-Adige, where the pergola system is traditional), aiming for “biological balance,” relying on solar energy, geo-thermal warmth and natural convection currents. Grapes gently push their own way via gravity down a tower during successive stages of vinification. Such care manifests itself in a very rich, well-developed structure, 13% alcohol and a proper acid-fruit balance.
Dow’s Quinta Senhorita da Ribeira Vintage Porto 2006 ($60)—Vintage Ports are among the world’s greatest values, and this year (bottled in 2008) is just ready to decant and drink with great pleasure. The name—“Lady of the River”—refers to a small chapel on the Douro where sailors would ask for safe passage on the river. The wine will certainly improve still further as the tannins soften to reveal the blackberry and vanilla components beneath. With a blue cheese, roasted walnuts or chestnuts, and dried apricots, this is as good a complement as I can think of.
Assobio 2013 ($13)—The Douro does not just produce its famous Port wines; more and more the region is exporting a range of solidly knit, well made red wines like Assobio, whose D.O.C. designation doesn’t tell you much about its origins. Assobio refers to a hillside with high vineyards, but it’s made from Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca, giving it depth and charm. Very well priced.
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. 2010 ($108)—Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ reputation goes back to the boom period in California wine in the 1970s, when its Cabernet Sauvignon won the 1976 “Judgment of Paris” tasting. S.L.V.’s first vintage was 1972 and it has remained consistently a beautiful example of how a broad-shouldered California Cab, made by Marcus Notaro, can achieve excellence without going above 14% alcohol. It can even age well—not something a lot of California Cabs do—but right now it’s velvety, robust and the kind of wine that begs you cook up a steak or stew for mid-autumn.