The Berlin Wall fell on November 9, 1989.
In 1964--25 years before the fall of the Wall--I was a 19-year-old college student making his first trip to Europe. I'd never been out of the United States. In fact, until I went away to college, I'd never been outside of Hartford, Connecticut except for an occasional trip to New York for a Yankees baseball game. So this was an entirely new experience for me--especially since I was traveling alone.
I did the usual summer tour--London, Paris, Amsterdam, and then I ended up in Denmark. I had planned to fly from Copenhagen to Berlin, or, more correctly, West Berlin, since it was still the Cold War and the city was divided between east and west, between the Allied sector and the Russian half. I assumed that since I was an American I couldn't travel through East Germany at all, and Berlin was in the middle of East Germany. But I was wrong. Another student I met on the trip said that, yes, I could in fact travel through East Germany to get into West Berlin with an American passport. I could take a train, so that's what I did.
Photo courtesy of visitBerlin
The train ride was long and uncomfortable. It began in Copenhagen, and we wound our way through East Germany headed for Berlin. Along the way, we made a lot of unscheduled stops, usually in the middle of nowhere. The reason: The Vopos, the dreaded East German national police, came on board frequently to check people's papers. The Vopos were a carryover from a small fraction of the Nazi police apparatus that had been all but disbanded after the war.
I, of course, thought this was a great adventure. First, I had been able to do something I hadn't expected, that is, travel through communist East Germany. Second, I was young and thought that nothing bad could happen to me. There was no way I would end up in prison or suffer some worse fate. After all, I was an American, and we were the good guys, or so we'd been told.
In fact, it was the height of the Cold War, and tensions between the U.S. and the old Soviet Union were high. In 1961, just three years earlier, the Americans and Russians had had a standoff at Checkpoint Charlie, the border crossing between East and West Berlin. About 10 Soviet tanks and an equal number of American tanks faced each other from either side of the checkpoint. The crisis was peacefully resolved a few days later, but it only went to illustrate how potentially dangerous things could become.
When we arrived in East Berlin, we departed the train and then had to walk to Checkpoint Charlie, one of the few crossings in the Wall. There were guard shacks on either side, one for the Russians and the other for the Americans (West Berlin was divided between the Allied powers; the U.S., Britain and France, each had its own sector).
Unlike what you see in all the spy movies, it was relatively easy to cross over from East Berlin into West Berlin, especially if you were a foreign national. It wasn't a problem for me as an American. It would have been a problem if I was an East German trying to get into West Berlin. I showed my passport and was allowed to cross over.
I also learned that I could keep crossing over the makeshift border at Checkpoint Charlie, and I did on several occasions. Once was to visit a museum in East Berlin. Another time I went to hear some music. The difference between the two halves of the city was startling--West Berlin had been built up into a sleek, modern metropolis, albeit with evidence of the war still to be seen. East Berlin, on the other hand, looked as if the rubble from the war had just been swept up. There were blasted-out buildings everywhere, giving this half of the city an eerie, ghostly quality.
Today, Checkpoint Charlie is a tourist attraction (see photo), recreated where the old crossing used to be.
The moral of this story? There is none, really, at least not a political one. Maybe the moral of the story is that when you are traveling to parts unknown, don't rely on received wisdom ("You can't travel through East Germany because you are an American"). Ask questions, be curious and you may often surprise yourself. That's really the essence of travel, isn't it?
Our 2024 Coverage Needs You
It's Another Trump-Biden Showdown — And We Need Your Help
The Future Of Democracy Is At Stake
Our 2024 Coverage Needs You
Your Loyalty Means The World To Us
As Americans head to the polls in 2024, the very future of our country is at stake. At HuffPost, we believe that a free press is critical to creating well-informed voters. That's why our journalism is free for everyone, even though other newsrooms retreat behind expensive paywalls.
Our journalists will continue to cover the twists and turns during this historic presidential election. With your help, we'll bring you hard-hitting investigations, well-researched analysis and timely takes you can't find elsewhere. Reporting in this current political climate is a responsibility we do not take lightly, and we thank you for your support.
Contribute as little as $2 to keep our news free for all.
Can't afford to donate? Support HuffPost by creating a free account and log in while you read.
The 2024 election is heating up, and women's rights, health care, voting rights, and the very future of democracy are all at stake. Donald Trump will face Joe Biden in the most consequential vote of our time. And HuffPost will be there, covering every twist and turn. America's future hangs in the balance. Would you consider contributing to support our journalism and keep it free for all during this critical season?
HuffPost believes news should be accessible to everyone, regardless of their ability to pay for it. We rely on readers like you to help fund our work. Any contribution you can make — even as little as $2 — goes directly toward supporting the impactful journalism that we will continue to produce this year. Thank you for being part of our story.
Can't afford to donate? Support HuffPost by creating a free account and log in while you read.
It's official: Donald Trump will face Joe Biden this fall in the presidential election. As we face the most consequential presidential election of our time, HuffPost is committed to bringing you up-to-date, accurate news about the 2024 race. While other outlets have retreated behind paywalls, you can trust our news will stay free.
But we can't do it without your help. Reader funding is one of the key ways we support our newsroom. Would you consider making a donation to help fund our news during this critical time? Your contributions are vital to supporting a free press.
Contribute as little as $2 to keep our journalism free and accessible to all.
Can't afford to donate? Support HuffPost by creating a free account and log in while you read.
As Americans head to the polls in 2024, the very future of our country is at stake. At HuffPost, we believe that a free press is critical to creating well-informed voters. That's why our journalism is free for everyone, even though other newsrooms retreat behind expensive paywalls.
Our journalists will continue to cover the twists and turns during this historic presidential election. With your help, we'll bring you hard-hitting investigations, well-researched analysis and timely takes you can't find elsewhere. Reporting in this current political climate is a responsibility we do not take lightly, and we thank you for your support.
Contribute as little as $2 to keep our news free for all.
Can't afford to donate? Support HuffPost by creating a free account and log in while you read.
Dear HuffPost Reader
Thank you for your past contribution to HuffPost. We are sincerely grateful for readers like you who help us ensure that we can keep our journalism free for everyone.
The stakes are high this year, and our 2024 coverage could use continued support. Would you consider becoming a regular HuffPost contributor?
Dear HuffPost Reader
Thank you for your past contribution to HuffPost. We are sincerely grateful for readers like you who help us ensure that we can keep our journalism free for everyone.
The stakes are high this year, and our 2024 coverage could use continued support. If circumstances have changed since you last contributed, we hope you'll consider contributing to HuffPost once more.
Support HuffPostAlready contributed? Log in to hide these messages.